Vovchandr

I don't have first hand experience at all but my personal consultant of CGPT has potential advice. " Problem: Many Fidanza flywheels for Zetec engines don't have the OEM 36-1 trigger pattern, or the tooth size/spacing may be different. Effect: The crank sensor might pick up a signal, but it's not in the format the ECU expects. The OmeX 600 likely needs a proper 36-1 pattern with specific gap timing. Check: Compare the Fidanza flywheel’s trigger pattern (number of teeth, missing teeth, spacing) to the OEM Zetec 36-1 flywheel. If it's off-spec, the ECU can't sync." Otherwise there's this advice "Sensor Signal Too Weak or Wrong Type Problem: Lightweight flywheels can reduce signal amplitude, especially if the trigger teeth are shallow or not ferrous enough. Effect: The signal might look OK on a scope but be borderline for triggering the ECU reliably, especially at cranking speeds. Check: Measure signal with an oscilloscope during cranking (not just while spinning by hand). Compare peak-to-peak voltage to your ECU’s required minimum (usually 2V+ for a VR sensor). Use a scope to confirm a proper 36-1 waveform and missing tooth timing. 3. Sensor Air Gap Too Large Problem: If the air gap between the crank sensor and the trigger teeth is too large, signal gets weak. Check: OEM Zetec sensors typically need a 0. 5–1.0 mm air gap."

For some reason I instantly thought about the gauge having to wake you up after a snooze.

For some people in power, the principle as a whole (which is easy to "sell") is more important than thinking about the semantics and nuance of a situation (which can get very complicated and isnt "sexy to sell" as you get into the weeds) This will likely cause quite a few complications for a minority of people and certain businesses which is a sacrifice the unaffected majority is willing to make.

@das76 you still selling your units?

I use sticky tape but a mount does exist.

A few points. The flipped iPhone image problem is known but wordy to explain. Easiest fix is take your pictures in the default landscape mode and you'll be fine. OEM is obviously best but price. I've been using a knockoff with horizontal DRL and it's been fine for me as many others. Buy any headlight on Amazon with hundreds of reviews and a good rating and it should be a pretty safe bet. Mine isn't a new build at all however. I would also recommend you look into upgrading taillights especially if you don't plan to add a third light. Our cars have a small profile and it's low. With distracted drivers it can be easily missed especially since we can brake very quickly. Justaddlightness if you want to retain old look or OEM Caterham for new style

Do it Do it (peer pressure intensifies) It's an event if you're non driving. Great to get together with other owners and experience it For some of us sometimes it starts out as a driving event, and then you end up on the sideline no longer driving due to.. circumstances. Still a great time!

Oh boy. An oil thread. Always a gold mine to see how much of a stickler some people are for things. I don't have much to add other than a few things I remember from selling oil 15 years ago and diving into this hell hole of theoretical discussions and dealing with Geekgeneers on Bobistheoilguy 1) There are only 6 or so manufacturers of true synthetic oils. Mobil, Redline, Amsoil and a few others. 2) Everybody else who calls their oil "synthetic" is dino oil that has an additive package that makes it work as good as synthetic but it's not a true synthetic. 3) Which means that every non true synthetic oil "blend" is just regular dino oil with a "medium" additive package compared to their "synthetic" additive package and that just seems ... wierd to me. Might as well go for the high end package if you're going with a non true synthetic. I used to be quite a stickler and care for oil pickings and use Amsoil on my bikes. A lot of time has passed and now I just use Mobil1 and change it infrequently and certainly at longer intervals, sometimes same oil sits for years (I assume dangers are moisture content for long sitting oils). I send my oils to Blackstone and usually get a scary feedback everytime. Clearly something is a problem but I doubt it's the oil. Life is too short to overthink oils for a marginal theoretical gain for regular pedestrian cars and engines. Engines are pretty tolerant. Although high end exotic cars, bikes that rev to 16k or race cars could see the benefit from that marginal gain.

I think your original post had the right idea, replace the flasher with one made to work with low resistance like LED's. That's what I had to do for mine as all my lights on the car are LED now. Mine came from "JUST ADD LIGHTNESS" but they should be pretty standard units LED Flasher Unit Relay MKII - Just Add Lightness

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Also fun to car spot all the exotics "there". Most Bugatti's per capital "The breakdown includes 5,281 Ferraris, 131 Bugattis, 1,966 Lamborghinis, and 820 Rolls-Royces"

You cant leave us on a cliffhanger like that. Spill the tea!

All registered Was a little blindsided by the new NJMP "processing fee". Passing down the "5%" CC fee for paying with a credit card while giving no other option to pay.

Could be real products but not sure if they would be authentic This is suspect too

This has been my method. Works pretty well, but I've also mostly avoided being in the water with the car

Limited edition CSR union jack on the grill

The clowder skittles!

Believe me, reliability has been a thought that crossed my mind. Plus horsepower wise, mine isn't exactly "thrilling" and wouldn't have an ideal face to represent the car. Although I tend to think it's a pretty face.. Regardless this is the first year where my family almost has it's own established means of transport for the car which was a big barrier to having any serious arrangements made.

Throttle House finally got to drive a Caterham I was actually in discussion for them to maybe use mine for their review but things didn't quite pan out, plus this is a much better example to use being a 620 Ariel Atom 4R Review // How Is This Even Street Legal