Vovchandr

I'm running out of ideas. As I chase one thing down more problems appear. Went to bleed the air today after last nights violent over boil and it violently bled air and made all sorts of mess. For starters I'm not sure why there is such a huge variation in level while running. Before thermostat opens the volume in bleeding funnel grows and grows to the point where I had to take some out. Then thermostat opened and the violent reaction seen in the video happens. It got so violent I had to shut it down before I got anything into the air filter and risked hydro locking. Didn't help during all this I was still having rev hang. Then during cool down process at the end of the video I heard strange crackling from the overflow tank that I've never heard before. I'll have to chase that noise down as well. After the noise stopped the coolant from the funnel all got taken in all of a sudden. I have no idea whats happening. Compression test was done last year. Leakdown test was done last year. Gas in coolant test done at same time. Granted maybe I need to do this again but I've had similar volume/bleeding issues last year during all this as well, which caused the testing to begin with. In the meantime the car would drive fine, stay at temp. Fan kicks on when needed. No real issues other than last nights violent overboil while messing with idle. Video above. Likely same thing that happened here. Coolant is just water. Brown is due to rusty water rail. Likely going to end up changing the head gasket and water pump at this point.

I think I just solved one problem. The partial throttle input is likely caused by my cable shield popping out of the housing and getting stuck on the housing. This is the first time I've gotten to observe it and catch it. Checked the ecu and it's reading 20% TPS when it gets stuck, which explains at least some things. It's the black shield stuck on silver bung. Will fix tomorrow and continue texting. Still doesn't explain overheating but should help narrow things down

while waiting for the cooldown, might as well upload videos edit: short hand video urls aren’t working. Copying full proper url before video address doesn’t work either. I’ll fix links when I get home Also not sure why videos are vertical when I made sure I was holding phone horizontally This is the backfire in cylinder #1 that I saw right before it stalled and overheated. Not sure if it's an issue but it's certainly an outlier

Fixed the cable. Went out for a test drive and now I'm back to bring broken down. Same issue as the other day with idling out of control at about the same spot. This time I took careful mental notes. It does apply throttle when in gear as well. Felt like cruise control. I lifted off the gas on the highway but the car kept cruising. I quickly downshifted and it revved in between and then kept cruising like on cruise control. It would maintain speed at lower gears down to 20mph or so and then accelerate down hill. Struggled coming to a stop while in gear. Not sure what throttle it's applying but it's not WOT. Went to check the cable. It's not taunt on the throttle body. So I went to bump up the idle in case my theory was correct and TPS is triggering the 90% input. It got higher than I wanted but the run away condition hasn't returned. Then I tried to dial in the idle with the screw to where I and the car would be happy. No luck. Too low and it wants to stall. Too high and it's problematic in another way. Besides that, I think if it's too high in ITBs it runs lean and overheats at idle. Which is what happened as we speak. Kept messing with it. Temperature pegged and coolant spilled. It was interesting cause there was a backfire I captured on camera right before temp shot up and car went to stall Edit: it also started to give me issues starting before overheating. See videos below

You know how all great aviation failures are a combination of multiple events gone wrong? Well I'm discovering that besides my out of control revving yesterday I've discovered that my throttle is getting stuck as well. Different symptom different fix. Occasionally upon coming to a stop my throttle would need a hard push on the pedal to "break lose". Yesterday driving home my throttle would get stuck while accelerating and I would have to hard blip the throttle to let it settle back down. This is on a brand new cable/housing. I've taken the whole thing apart and measured out the location where it gets tight/stuck. It's right above the exhaust. Compared it to the old throttle cable I replaced and it would get tight right around the same area (marked with tape). Not sure what my current solution would be for this. Cable seems fine in a new housing. These have a plastic liner inside to help them glide easier being motorcycle cables. I'll either have to have a cable set without the liner or find a better routing. As of right now since only replacement I have on hand is with plastic liner I'm going to try a slightly different route.

Didn't seem that crazy to me. That's close to what a set of Just Add Lightness taillights cost when you order with the mount and flasher. It was pretty easy to justify as a safety item because it's a lot cheaper to deal with compared to being rear ended. At least that's what I told myself...

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How much did they ask to ship?? The lights are about ~$408 USD without VAT + conversion fee.

Very cool. You're likely the first US customer.

I second similar ^ I don't know the possibilities of achieving this with a 5 speed but my 6 speed is very well balanced as long as you're not worried about crazy top speed. I personally gladly make that sacrifice. My first goes to almost 50mph and then very short gears after

Congrats! The dark side has its shining moments. I see Croc has finally worn you down. Any particular things that you look forward to in comparison to the Westfield? Any down sides other than price? What power are you shooting for in a build?

Upside down on one side of course Is there any other manufacturer that just flips the lights on one side instead of making a new part? That's certainly true to the ethos.

Video posted above. Even shows them in limited action towards the end. Requires making hole bigger and two new holes. I never hated the old lights. To me they are part of the car but I'm sure some people hated when carbon fiber dashboards got introduced as well as they weren't true to the original ethos. I know a dealer in Europe, I believe in Germany, hated the original lights so much they refused to install them and always put in a pretty nice dual round setup. I wouldn't be surprised if an LED solution for an inhouse light was driven by EV future. Regular lights are far too much of an electricity sink to be allowed in a production EV car.

Another shot. Really wish they had a video. Also they are now featured item at the parts site if anybody wants them https://caterhamparts.co.uk/

Variety is neat

I'll look into it I've looked through most of the Pectel threads, but I'll consider reaching out in general as well. At a glance it appears ITB's in general were not a very common upgrade for the Focus community. Most went FI. I'm also in touch with Tom in regards to planning future tuning. Maybe I'll pick his brain on the matter as well. In the meantime, Borla/TWM got back to me with some interesting information There is no TPS adjustment on the ITB's. Confirmed. They also said that 10% voltage at idle and 90% at WOT are normal. 10% at idle I can see, injectors need to be firing at least some fuel without IAC to keep engine spinning. 90% at WOT as normal was surprising to me.

I think you're right. It should probably spike up instead of spiking left. I honestly have no idea what I'm doing and just doing the best with information I got. Pectel/DeskPro in general has very little information about it online so I'm poking around and texting things. I'll get further tomorrow. Information I got so far for Pectel/DeskPro was saying I shouldn't flash new maps with ecu voltage being less than 12. I was at 11.6 last time I messed with it so leaving it charging. One of the big things is to try to get my wideband situated so I have better idea at whats happening with my AFR as I mess with TPS as the maps are based off that

Ferrari SF90 v new Rimac Nevera: DRAG RACE *WORLD RECORD!!!* This thing walks a 1000 horsepower car like it's a Camry and runs an 8 second 1/4 mile. Mind blowing.

Thank you. Any information helps. I do look to be reverse of you. I don't think it's an issue of concern honestly. I just looked where I'm sitting now. I'm at 10% TPS at idle, where I used to be 12% before I messed with it and took it off/remounted it etc. Here is what my table/graph looks like Third picture is what I'm trying to adjust it down to. I'm also trying to reset the minimum and maximum to 0 and 100. This however is what caused a TPS too low alarm in the ECU and caused it to be reading max at idle, which made me revert all the changes Graph Table Trying to change it to something like this. Where 0 and 100 hit at a narrower range

Another look

They are certainly thinner. I think they could have done worse. I saw the video too. Personally I'm not sold on them. If JAL weren't an option this would be a very reasonable alternative to the old bulb style lights. Would be neat if they had some sort of light movement integrated into them.

I have not. I'm pending sourcing a replacement to partition it out and testing the TPS is not something that I'm familiar with. Not ruling it out entirely just yet. I'm somewhat confused why the ECU has an 8.5% set as minimum and 90% set as maximum for TPS range in either case. Once I get home I'll be doing more tinkering.