athens7

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-Caterham-Super-7-Caterham-7-BIg-Valve-Twin-Cam_W0QQitemZ250257526192QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250257526192& Pretty car!

Sounds like life with a hand made British sports car.

I can be available for Sunday events. June 15th is an SCCA Atlanta region autocross, which, depending on the times, could be a good day. The autocross is done by late afternoon.

20-22 mpg

One of the reasons I bought my car when I did is because I wanted an Arch frame. I have heard/read of the stiffer construction of the Caged frame, but my Arch is fine, and compared to my Caged FIA roll bar, the welds on the Arch frame are artwork. Also, I wasn't really interested in doing any of Caterham UK's product development on the new chassis, or waiting whatever length of time it would take to get their newest variant after this was done by others (get it right the first time isn't a phrase I usually associate with British auto manufacturers; maybe it was my time as a Jaguar dealer in the 1980s).

I ran my car at the SCCA Atlanta Region Novice school last month (11 runs!) with my stock Avon ZZ3s 205/45 ZR16. Kind of greasy, but progressive and easy to recover. I'd love a set of R compounds, but the closest size I can find is 225/45 16. Looking at my wing stays, I don't see that I have 20mm available additional width. Is the only solution different size wheels and new tires? If so, I'll have to run this season stock and save up for a wheel/tire package for next year. If not, I would welcome suggestions as to more cost effective alternatives. Does taking out a timing reflector and a half dozen cones in a 4 wheel slide at the finish on my last run qualify me to use the Boxologist Smiley?

:thumbs: That's why upgradeitis is such a powerful ailment-each successful treatment makes you feel great (without curing the disease), and primes the pump for the next one!

I am pretty well versed in the manner in which Caterhams come in to the US. Perhaps I should clarify my question. In the past, one could order a kit and a drivetrain from Caterham USA, then assemble it oneself, or have a dealer (like Jeff, from whom I bought my car) assemble it for you. This process seemed to slow considerably when Caterham UK switched to the Caged frame and the Sigma drivetrain for the S3 and SV series. As I understood it, the Sigma motor was not US compliant, and the Duratec would not fit in the Arch Motors frame, nor in the non-CSR Caged frame, without more modification than Caterham USA was willing to undertake. By the replies, it seems that those who are getting 2007 and 2008 cars are not sourcing current drivetrains from Caterham USA (the SVT is not a current drivetrain, as the motor has been out of production for over 3 years), but from other vendors. So my question is, is anyone getting a complete, non CSR kit/drivetrain from Caterham USA, using other than the Zetec or crossflow powertrains (which are likely used or rebuilt) which have been available for a number of years-in other words, can you buy an S3 or SV from John and Cody with a Caterham USA supplied Duratec (Alaskossie says yes), and what, if any chassis mods are necessary to fit the motor (dry sump, pedal box mods etc.)? Also, if this package is now finally available, how about a website update?

I've noticed that the Caterham USA website hasn't been updated in about 2 years. What's up with that? Does any one know if Duratec motors are available in S3 and SV models as complete, ready to install packages? Has anyone ordered a 2007 or 2008 Caterham as a turn key in this country?

I've heard Walrus' story; it makes my engine saga seem like a weekend's work. I wonder if there are any other 'new' 2005 Caterhams out there? Here's to many miles of happy blatting!

I don't speak German, but I understand YAAAAAHHHH!!! :jonautox:

Wix 51374

Those 'aha' moments when your car feels RIGHT (usually after significant expenditures of time/money) sure are great!

On the Avon ZZ3s that came with my car, the fellows on Blatchat say that even at 18 psi the center rib will wear out before the shoulders (a common occurence with over-inflated tires).

Several trips to the tuners and $$$$ later, here I am again, a VERY happy camper! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2092993627_Feb 11 2008 simple chart.jpg This is the final run in February, after 7 hours of adjustments to the ECU programming. Our goal was to optimize the air/fuel ratio, and maximize timing wwithout detonation. We were also hoping to eliminate the dip in the power curves between 2500-3500 rpm. We discovered certain things: -Adaptive fuel programming sucks. In my car's case, short term fuel trims were all too lean, leading to a gradual leaning out of the air/fuel mixture. Eliminated by resetting the ECU, the problem can reappear in as little as 200 miles. Eliminating the adaptive fuel programming eliminated the problem. -The MAFS map in the ECU in its stock form doesn't fit the demands of the Seven. Changes to the air/fuel ratio settings didn't translate to real changes in the air/fuel ratio, until the MAFS map itself was changed. -Heat soak in the engine prevented replicable runs. The second run was always down on peak power. The engine coolant temperature would get as high as 212 degrees. The a/f ratio graph was smoother and more ideal, but persisted in being too lean at the torque peak. After the session, I found the car to have much better performance at both part and full throttle. A couple of SVT technicians had advised me to install a 180 degree thermostat in the car, as opposed to the stock 195 degree unit. Thinking it would help with the heat soak issue, as well as durabilty, I did so, and returned to the dyno on March 18th. We also wanted to adjust the exhaust cam timing, and change the switchover point on the intake runners, as I had lost some midrange torque in the last session when we dropped the switchover point to 4100 rpm. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1847002569_Mar 18 2008 before & after +2deg exh cam timing.jpg This chart shows the first run of the visit, with the only change from February being the addition of the new thermostat. The later run is with the exhaust cam timing advanced 2 degrees and the intake runner switchover point moved to 5500 rpm. There is a HUGE gain in midrange power, and the elimination of the over-lean condition at the torque peak. We were actually able to increase the air slightly from 4500 rpm up. The dip in the power curves is also narrowed by about 400 rpm. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/226029952_Mar 18 2008 3rd & 4th gear.jpg This last chart shows runs in 3rd and 4th gear. I show this for the "which gear yields the most efficient power" discussions. All my runs were completely replicable in sets of three. I have gotten much feedback on the drivetrain loss issue for determining true engine output on a chassis dyno, most of it conflicting. Regardless of what loss exists, I know this: my motor puts out 3 more lbs-ft torque at the wheels than a stock SVT makes AT THE CRANK, and does it at 500 fewer rpm :hurray: ! Intake air temperature is also important; there was a noticeable difference in power at higher intake air temperatures. This is a problem with the SVT intake location. A cold air intake solution may be the next item on the to do list.I have now seen some other dyno runs for SVT motors with hot cams, and they all have a dip at some point in the power curve. The consensus among my sources is that the Cosworth/SVT head flows all the air it can, and volumetric efficency problems can crop up with more aggressive cams. The car goes like a scalded dog, and I believe it will be more durable with cooler operating temperatures and a more optimal a/f ratio. My motor sure has come a long way since October of last year! These mods are easily duplicated, and my tuner has the data to install the tune using a Diablosport Predator. Also necessary are the 180 degree thermostat and an adjustable exhaust cam gear. Your results may vary, but I would encourage SVT owners to watch the a/f ratios on your cars, if you are using the stock ECU. Hard running and lean operation can be an expen

On my SVT with the Caterham USA sump, just a hair under 5 quarts.

My strap broke in the first 5 minutes, but the watch has always kept good time. Not a prospect for another, though. I'd rather have a club specific decal than a generic one.

The ad copy says "cosmetically needs a little improvement". :lol:

I wear these: http://www.wileyx.com/EcommSuite/ProductDetail.aspx?ActivityCode=MOTORCYCLE&SeriesCode=166&ProductLine=236,SG1&ItemCode=71 They have been very satisfactory so far.

69 and sunny here. Fill up, then out into the country for some data logging. Nice to have the top AND doors off.

"Magnum' Ferraris, as well as 308GT4s, and Mondials are certainly cheaper than a new Caterham, but the maintenance costs are exponentially higher on the prancing horse cars(or should I call them "other European exotic":d )

Sorry Mazda, but what is the right way to take being called 'somewhat insane', Deman?

I'd want my 2 days of instruction in Caterham's car, not mine (could be an expensive learning curve).

Ok, that's funny! Perhaps a case of "other track car" envy? In my house, Caterham is only a bad word when the credit card bill arrives with this month's upgrade reconciliation! :7fume:

Wonder what I can get on a trade? http://cars.uk.msn.com/News/car_news_article.aspx?cp-documentid=7638280