athens7

I use a piece of foot well insulation to stop off the heater air intake; it makes a big difference over leaving the intake open. Also, I have a coolant cut off valve (in addition to the pull lever in the cockpit) installed in the incoming coolant line to the heater, under the bonnet. This prevents hot coolant from entering the heater core, further reducing heat in the foot wells.

To have a fraction of the support the Brits have for these cars-just the ads in each month's Lowflying...

Here's hoping he gets his price; it would bode well for the resale value of all our cars (of course, I wish I were a little taller, too).

It was a really hot weekend in my part of the country-if also thus where you were, maybe our cars (or the cones) were expanding slightly in the heat:D! If I paid more attention, I would have seen this thread and not wasted everyone's time!

Box, the thread IS interesting. After some feedback here and elsewhere, I am going to try the US (McMaster-Carr) version of the well-nuts with polycarbonate bolts on the front half of the wing and the stock set up on the back half. I've knocked the front half loose twice now, but done no damage to the body behind the back half. I would also like the wing to not come completely off when (not if) I hit a cone.

I killed a cone at 6X MPH this weekend, and pulled the rivnuts out of the aluminum body on the right rear wing. The holes are cratered out, and I'm looking for solutions that don't involve new sheetmetal. Any best practices out there, both for the repair and perhaps for strengthening the body (this is my 2nd right rear wing in 2 seasons-I need a car that is 2" narrower, but only on the right side!)?

My car has been as reliable as a brick-the time spent in the shop has been almost completely due to the driver's insatiable case of upgradeitis! Also, the only time my car understeers is hard throttle uphill; all other times, it is predisposed to oversteer.

Depends on who you ask!!

That's a really unfortunate looking car-maybe it has a great personality/really can cook!

Best phone I've ever had (3G). I do think the new 3.0 operating system strains the capabilities of the 3G phone-my more graphically intense applications don't run as well on 3.0, even after the programmer has modified them.

40 years old and behind the wheel of an F1 car-a Ferrari, no less (of course)! Michael is the standard bearer for us middle aged men and our passions. What a burden, to have to fill in and race at the pinnacle of the sport. I've got the age, all I'm missing is the eyesight, talent, conditioning, reflexes,...

Yup. That's why the F1 engineers make upwards of $700,000 per year. If one has a proficiency for such things, great. I'm simply stating a belief that the average performance car driver could easily do more harm than good with this much influence over set up. After all, it could be easily argued that one of the big differences between McLaren last year and this year is the lack of Alonso's ability to set up the car (not to mention Schumacher vs. Raikonnen at Ferrari).

This sounds like a great way to hopelessly f%#k up a car carefully set up by people who know much more about such things than the ultimate owner. Most who aspire to fiddle with set up should stick to Gran Tourismo, IMO.

:drool:

The listing shows a sale pending. The color scheme on the 40th anniversary car has always been one of my favorites.

I'm not crazy about the color, but the car looks immaculate. It sure would be nice to have too much money...

52 mm is the correct size.

"The only 911 call I need is chambering a round." Now that's a great line! Whether you agree with the dealers slogan of "God, guns, guts, and American trucks" or not, the reporter's questioning the validity of it because "some people might be uncomfortable" with it is beyond ludicrous. Somebody get the stupid bimbo a copy of Farenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury, for God's sake. :rant:

I have read many threads on a variety of forums about footwell heat, more about S3s than SVs. The general feeling seems to be that the SV has more room for air to flow around the engine, helping to dissipate the heat. Some of the folks on Blatchat have installed a vented shift boot to evacuate heat from the transmission tunnel. Some insulate the footwells, others wrap exhaust headers. I still hear tales of burned legs and oppressive heat. I live in Georgia, where it is routinely 90+ degrees in the summer, and I can run my car at autocrosses, as well as 200 mile blats, without any discomfort. I wear shorts and Piloti Monacos when driving. My car has the following "anti-heat" equipment: -insulated footwell floors and tunnel (both sides) from British Auto Specialists -Jet Hot coated exhaust -heater cut off valve in the heater coolant line -insulation blocking the heater air intake during the summer (keeps hot air from flowing through the heater ducts) -180 degree thermostat and reprogrammed radiator fan I know it's hot under the bonnet, as I can see the heat waves coming out of the louvers, the heat just doesn't transfer into the footwells. Maybe it's just dumb luck (I certainly have the requisite level of stupidity!). I've also heard the Duratec cars are throwing off a lot of heat...

Damn, that's pretty! Between this car and the $6?,??? CSR at Sevens & Elans, that's a couple of mouth watering options.

Hmmmm...

:cooldude:

Mike, the Caterham oil pressure gauge, and likely the sender, is made by Caerbont Automotive, not Mocal, according to the label on the gauge housing. I would assume all the other gauges are similarly sourced.

Stack makes some very nice speedometers and tachometers that would fit, as well as all the necessary other gauges, including the oil pressure gauge (electrical and mechanical). The mechanical oil pressure gauge was about $10 more than the Mocal unit, but the fellas on Blatchat overwhelmingly use the Mocal gauge, so that was my choice. I did look at Stack's Pro-control electrical oil pressure gauge with peak display and high and low pressure alarms with built in warning lights, but at $240 plus an unknown amount of wire harness splicing to access power... I suppose it would be nice to have a matched set of gauges if I had to replace more of the ones I have, so I would probably go with Stack and use their OPG instead of the Mocal unit. What about having a good gauge service shop like Palo Alto Speedometer rebuild the existing speedo or tach with better components?

I haven't had much time to drive the car since the install, but so far: Cold start 75 PSI 4000 RPM at 60 degrees Celsius 80-82 PSI Warm idle 40 PSI 4000 RPM at 80 degrees Celsius 75-78 PSI I have a 180 degree thermostat in the car, not the stock 195 degree unit, so oil pressure/temperature might be a bit different in a car with the stock thermostat in harder driving environments. I will be interested to see my readings during my next autocross. I would expect them to be a bit lower at the higher temperatures generated during that type of use. I also haven't gone for a long (50 miles plus) drive on a Georgia summer day (90 plus degrees), so we'll see what the readings are then. My motor was a crate (not used) engine and has 7900 miles on it now.