athens7

I'm sure everything will be fine. After all, GM was run by accountants for years, right up until the bailout/bankruptcy...:willy_nilly:

Is this kit from George Alderman at Mid Atlantic Caterham?

I bedded the brakes in for competition on the Mustang yesterday. This is the first car I have bought from a volume manufacturer that has instructions for preparing your new car for competition use! Next weekend, I am off to the new track at Atlanta Motorsports Park for my first SCCA PDX event. I intend to get my Track Trials license and explore some of the area tracks (Road Atlanta, Roebling, Barber, Carolina Motorsports Park). The Mustang is WAY heavy after the 7, and the steering is very light. Nothing communicates quite like a 7! The Mustang is prodigiously fast, and aerodynamics (obviously) are much better, so higher speeds are a breeze. The rear axle does hop a bit in bumpy corners, but I've got the dampers on the street setting (2 of 5). At the track, I'll be at the firmest setting on a smooth surface; I'm looking forward to seeing how the solid axle responds. I am pleased with how easy it is to feel the rear end rotate on the Mustang, as the 7 spoils one for progressive break away in the rear. It will be nice to be able to carry a little more kit to the track (I don't trailer my cars, and I don't wish the day's boredom on my wife)!

Thanks to all who expressed interest, and to those who have been waiting for a resolution of this sale. My car was (USA) born in the middle of America, lived on the east coast, and will now live on the west coast. It is better traveled than I am! The changing of the guard:

An update, for those who are interested. I have a commitment to purchase the car, backed by a deposit, from a nice fellow who is tied up with work for a couple of weeks. If the sale doesn't finalize by the 25th, I will notify the people who have expressed interest in the car since I took the deposit. Thanks to all for their interest. I have driven the car a little, to keep the fluids stirred, and I wonder if I am being a complete idiot by selling it.

Thanks. It is a Boss (GT 500 not out yet). There is just something about yellow, right Martin? Sorry for the thread hijack, Jim.

The oil pressure issue was due to a C-F-M competition oil pump with billet aluminum gears I installed in replacement of the stock pump that increased oil pressure past the range that allowed for VCT actuation, which is based on oil pressure within a range. VCT on an SVT motor was not just for emissions, as I understand it, but also to allow for a broader and flatter torque curve. I do know that we were able to adjust the VCT mapping for a substantial increase in midrange torque. I also used an adjustable exhaust cam gear with the VCT (as VCT works only on the intake cam) and got additional power. I have no experience with non-SVT VCTs, which may have been emissions related only. No amount of extra power will make up for my lack of driving skill compared to the Robertson clan, though. On a different subject, I bought this today:

VCT delete for an SVT Zetec is a bad idea, IMHO. The car's cam profile means that without VCT, idle and low rpm drivability suffers. This tendency is exacerbated if the car has Kent cams. I know because I went down this road briefly early in my tuning process. I hear VCT delete is more effective when combined with forced induction; why, I don't know. YMMV.

:ack::puke:

The motor was purchased by Caterham USA as part of a group from a Ford dealer in Denver. I have the receipt. I would call it a "crate" engine. According to my last dyno chart, about 160 hp & 150 lbs-ft of torque at the wheels. What that translates to at the crank depends on who you ask. Miles on the engine is the same as miles on the car, as the engine was new (currently 15,900). The transmission is the Ford T-9 with standard ratios. 3.92 LSD rear and .82:1 5th gear overdrive. Clutch is as installed by Caterham/British Auto Specialist. It is hydraulic with an annular slave cylinder. Flywheel is lightened option from Caterham (9-1/2 lb.?)

I'm glad you are all right. While my heart breaks for your car, you were using it as it was intended, to your great credit. I hope the damage and cost is as limited as possible.

I no longer have a company car, so I'm thinking about replacing my 7 and the Acura RSX-S that I now use for a daily driver with one car that I can both drive daily and track/autocross, perhaps a Boss 302 Mustang (it's a heavy girl, though). I took the 7 out this weekend, and it's still the most engaging, entertaining car I have ever owned. It makes my convictions about selling very flimsy...

I resent the implication (that I have wherewithal) As to the nut thing, "it's a fair cop".

Good stuff! He's really working the wheel early on. How much faster is he than the old man?

Most of my small file engine pics are already on various threads here, and won't duplicate to a second thread. Post #8 here: http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5144 has some pictures of the engine, CAI, and radiator shroud. I have large file size pictures available. This picture shows the coil on plug ignition that replaced the stock distributor/plug wires.

2005 Caterham 7 SV Roadsport Purchased new and fully assembled from Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist in Fort Worth, TX (Caterham dealer) in August 2007. This chassis was shipped in early 2005, and was purchased by Jeff from the Nearn family as part of a group of 12 cars right before they sold Caterham Cars to Ansar Ali and his compatriots. It has an Arch frame. Original specification: Black full paint Red leather seats, tunnel top Red interior panels New SVT Zetec motor with Raceline sump Lightened flywheel T-9 5 speed transmission Kent camshafts ZF limited slip differential/3.92 final drive Triple pass aluminum racing radiator AP racing brake upgrade British Auto Specialist sump skid plate 4 point racing harnesses FIA roll bar w/petty strut Momo quick release steering wheel Adjustable spring perches Interior insulation kit Jet hot ceramic coated exhaust Heater shut off valve Full weather gear (heated windscreen, hood, side doors with armrests) Hood bag Carbon fiber dash, stone guards, sill protectors Aero fuel filler cap Full tonneau cover Perspex wind deflectors w/bag Spare wheel and tire Luggage rack Indoor car cover Modifications made since purchase: Custom engine tune by Ed Senf/Balanced Performance Adjustable exhaust cam gear 180 degree thermostat Replaced distributor, spark plug wires with direct coil packs Upgraded exhaust mounts, added center exhaust mount CFM Motorsports aluminum DSI manifold lever Spa catch tank routed in line from PCV valve back to intake Philips X-Treme Power headlamp bulbs Mid Atlantic Caterham Serpentine belt reorientation kit Stack auxiliary gauges (mechanical oil pressure, electric stepper fuel and water temp) Samco silicone front radiator hoses Odyssey PC680 battery, billet aluminum hold down, trickle charger Cold air intake and plexiglass radiator air deflector (relocated battery, no bonnet cut) 3M Clearshield on rear wings and stone guards Ceramic black Super 7 nosecone badge Accessories/Spares: Diablosport Predator ECU programmer w/data logging, fault code reader Soft Bits for Sevens tunnel bag Walker St. Clair outdoor half car cover Removable passenger side cone catcher (mounts under body) CFM racing oil pump original distributor and mounting bracket wiper blades owners manual assembly manual I have also upgraded various small bits and pieces of the car, such as a better quality fuel neck hose, as I saw the need. The car has been autocrossed regularly, and maintained obsessively. Fluids are Mobil 1 5W30 engine oil, Redline MT90 in the transmission, and Redline 75W90 with friction modifier for the differential. I have a complete service history, as well as receipts for all purchases. The odometer reads 15,897 miles as of this post, and is correct. 5 Toyo R1R tires with approx 6/32 remaining tread keep it attached to the ground (well, 4 of them do. The 5th one just kind of hangs around in back). Blemishes are as follows: a paint chip about the size of a pinkie fingernail on the bonnet (due to a paint defect at time of manufacture), minor spider webs on the front wings at the fasteners, and 2 small dings right below the Caterham emblem on the rear valence. The car has always been garaged and covered, and gets wiped down after every use. It has a Georgia "assembled vehicle" title. If one searches my posts on USA7s and the California Caterham Club, much of the car’s development and history can be seen. $35,950 obo.

I've run Toyo R1Rs for the last 2 years. They have the same warnings/installation suggestions. My non-climate controlled garage has kept them just fine, including through last winter's 8" snowstorm that stayed on the ground for a week (pretty extreme for Georgia).

With the economy the way it is, who knows about the value of any discretionary toy! IMHO, your price is very fair for a Zetec car with low miles and a quite respectable specification. Good luck with the sale!

Correct. The cover is more cosmetic and dust cover than anything else. It will reduce the chance of getting water on the plugs, but it is certainly not water tight.

It's been a while since I bought from them, but these guys had a larger than normal availability of SVT Focus parts: http://hilbishmotor.dealerconnection.com/

:party:

They're available easily enough through your local Ford dealer's parts department; however, there is commonly a problem with the front of the cover fitting under the bonnet. The height needed for the cover to clear the VCT solenoid creates problems. Here's one possible solution:

The 16" wagon wheels weigh 15 lb. each.

Mine started last fall. The ENT doctor says I have some slight hearing loss in both ears around the 4000 (mHz?, kHZ?, ear hurts, whatever) range and the ringing is the result. Worse in the right ear than the left, with some pulsing in the right ear when I bend over (like Jon W's). He says learn to live with it. Now (too late), I use ear plugs on any ride longer than 15 minutes.

Well done-I've had computer difficulties and haven't been able to post, but your solution is the same as mine, with the only difference being I used a bung the same size as an o2 sensor thread. While you're at it, now is a good time to cut a metal rod to length for a dipstick and mark the fluid level; it will make maintenance easier.