athens7

The oil pressure issue was due to a C-F-M competition oil pump with billet aluminum gears I installed in replacement of the stock pump that increased oil pressure past the range that allowed for VCT actuation, which is based on oil pressure within a range. VCT on an SVT motor was not just for emissions, as I understand it, but also to allow for a broader and flatter torque curve. I do know that we were able to adjust the VCT mapping for a substantial increase in midrange torque. I also used an adjustable exhaust cam gear with the VCT (as VCT works only on the intake cam) and got additional power. I have no experience with non-SVT VCTs, which may have been emissions related only. No amount of extra power will make up for my lack of driving skill compared to the Robertson clan, though. On a different subject, I bought this today:

VCT delete for an SVT Zetec is a bad idea, IMHO. The car's cam profile means that without VCT, idle and low rpm drivability suffers. This tendency is exacerbated if the car has Kent cams. I know because I went down this road briefly early in my tuning process. I hear VCT delete is more effective when combined with forced induction; why, I don't know. YMMV.

:ack::puke:

The motor was purchased by Caterham USA as part of a group from a Ford dealer in Denver. I have the receipt. I would call it a "crate" engine. According to my last dyno chart, about 160 hp & 150 lbs-ft of torque at the wheels. What that translates to at the crank depends on who you ask. Miles on the engine is the same as miles on the car, as the engine was new (currently 15,900). The transmission is the Ford T-9 with standard ratios. 3.92 LSD rear and .82:1 5th gear overdrive. Clutch is as installed by Caterham/British Auto Specialist. It is hydraulic with an annular slave cylinder. Flywheel is lightened option from Caterham (9-1/2 lb.?)

I'm glad you are all right. While my heart breaks for your car, you were using it as it was intended, to your great credit. I hope the damage and cost is as limited as possible.

I no longer have a company car, so I'm thinking about replacing my 7 and the Acura RSX-S that I now use for a daily driver with one car that I can both drive daily and track/autocross, perhaps a Boss 302 Mustang (it's a heavy girl, though). I took the 7 out this weekend, and it's still the most engaging, entertaining car I have ever owned. It makes my convictions about selling very flimsy...

I resent the implication (that I have wherewithal) As to the nut thing, "it's a fair cop".

Most of my small file engine pics are already on various threads here, and won't duplicate to a second thread. Post #8 here: http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5144 has some pictures of the engine, CAI, and radiator shroud. I have large file size pictures available. This picture shows the coil on plug ignition that replaced the stock distributor/plug wires.

2005 Caterham 7 SV Roadsport Purchased new and fully assembled from Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist in Fort Worth, TX (Caterham dealer) in August 2007. This chassis was shipped in early 2005, and was purchased by Jeff from the Nearn family as part of a group of 12 cars right before they sold Caterham Cars to Ansar Ali and his compatriots. It has an Arch frame. Original specification: Black full paint Red leather seats, tunnel top Red interior panels New SVT Zetec motor with Raceline sump Lightened flywheel T-9 5 speed transmission Kent camshafts ZF limited slip differential/3.92 final drive Triple pass aluminum racing radiator AP racing brake upgrade British Auto Specialist sump skid plate 4 point racing harnesses FIA roll bar w/petty strut Momo quick release steering wheel Adjustable spring perches Interior insulation kit Jet hot ceramic coated exhaust Heater shut off valve Full weather gear (heated windscreen, hood, side doors with armrests) Hood bag Carbon fiber dash, stone guards, sill protectors Aero fuel filler cap Full tonneau cover Perspex wind deflectors w/bag Spare wheel and tire Luggage rack Indoor car cover Modifications made since purchase: Custom engine tune by Ed Senf/Balanced Performance Adjustable exhaust cam gear 180 degree thermostat Replaced distributor, spark plug wires with direct coil packs Upgraded exhaust mounts, added center exhaust mount CFM Motorsports aluminum DSI manifold lever Spa catch tank routed in line from PCV valve back to intake Philips X-Treme Power headlamp bulbs Mid Atlantic Caterham Serpentine belt reorientation kit Stack auxiliary gauges (mechanical oil pressure, electric stepper fuel and water temp) Samco silicone front radiator hoses Odyssey PC680 battery, billet aluminum hold down, trickle charger Cold air intake and plexiglass radiator air deflector (relocated battery, no bonnet cut) 3M Clearshield on rear wings and stone guards Ceramic black Super 7 nosecone badge Accessories/Spares: Diablosport Predator ECU programmer w/data logging, fault code reader Soft Bits for Sevens tunnel bag Walker St. Clair outdoor half car cover Removable passenger side cone catcher (mounts under body) CFM racing oil pump original distributor and mounting bracket wiper blades owners manual assembly manual I have also upgraded various small bits and pieces of the car, such as a better quality fuel neck hose, as I saw the need. The car has been autocrossed regularly, and maintained obsessively. Fluids are Mobil 1 5W30 engine oil, Redline MT90 in the transmission, and Redline 75W90 with friction modifier for the differential. I have a complete service history, as well as receipts for all purchases. The odometer reads 15,897 miles as of this post, and is correct. 5 Toyo R1R tires with approx 6/32 remaining tread keep it attached to the ground (well, 4 of them do. The 5th one just kind of hangs around in back). Blemishes are as follows: a paint chip about the size of a pinkie fingernail on the bonnet (due to a paint defect at time of manufacture), minor spider webs on the front wings at the fasteners, and 2 small dings right below the Caterham emblem on the rear valence. The car has always been garaged and covered, and gets wiped down after every use. It has a Georgia "assembled vehicle" title. If one searches my posts on USA7s and the California Caterham Club, much of the car’s development and history can be seen. $35,950 obo.

I've run Toyo R1Rs for the last 2 years. They have the same warnings/installation suggestions. My non-climate controlled garage has kept them just fine, including through last winter's 8" snowstorm that stayed on the ground for a week (pretty extreme for Georgia).

With the economy the way it is, who knows about the value of any discretionary toy! IMHO, your price is very fair for a Zetec car with low miles and a quite respectable specification. Good luck with the sale!

Correct. The cover is more cosmetic and dust cover than anything else. It will reduce the chance of getting water on the plugs, but it is certainly not water tight.

It's been a while since I bought from them, but these guys had a larger than normal availability of SVT Focus parts: http://hilbishmotor.dealerconnection.com/

:party:

They're available easily enough through your local Ford dealer's parts department; however, there is commonly a problem with the front of the cover fitting under the bonnet. The height needed for the cover to clear the VCT solenoid creates problems. Here's one possible solution:

The 16" wagon wheels weigh 15 lb. each.

Mine started last fall. The ENT doctor says I have some slight hearing loss in both ears around the 4000 (mHz?, kHZ?, ear hurts, whatever) range and the ringing is the result. Worse in the right ear than the left, with some pulsing in the right ear when I bend over (like Jon W's). He says learn to live with it. Now (too late), I use ear plugs on any ride longer than 15 minutes.

Well done-I've had computer difficulties and haven't been able to post, but your solution is the same as mine, with the only difference being I used a bung the same size as an o2 sensor thread. While you're at it, now is a good time to cut a metal rod to length for a dipstick and mark the fluid level; it will make maintenance easier.

Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist had installed a valve in front of my heater when he built the car. He can be found here: http://www.britauto.net/

I use Redline 75W90 synthetic GL5 hypoid gear oil with LSD friction reducers. I have always had a clunk when I'm a little sloppy with my upshifts returning to throttle but there is no trash in my gear oil and it is not burned. Most will tell you that Caterham LSDs are a bit noisy and clunky; the post ZF LSDs can be more than a bit, according to Blatchat. On an '04, it should be a ZF, like mine. The Redline MT-90 is a good choice for the transmission. As to checking transmission fluid levels, I think the best solution is to remove the top cover, drill a hole in one of the front corners, weld in a bung, and install a threaded plug. Finally, fabricate an appropriate length dipstick to measure the level. I can take a couple of photos of my set up, if you like.

Sweet!!

From a previous thread: Start here on page 99: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/forms/pdf/motor/MV_Vehicles_Titles_Manual.pdf You'll need one of these: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/forms/pdf/motor/MV_Affidavit_of_Assembled_Veh_Inspectiom_Form_MV100.pdf You'll need one of these: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/forms/pdf/motor/MV_Rebuilt_Vehicle_Inspection_Request_Form_T22R.pdf And one of these: http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/forms/pdf/motor/MV_Labor_and_Parts_Certification_Form_T129.pdf All titling is handled through the Salvage Section of Georgia's Department of Revenue/Motor Vehicle Division. It's a pretty straightforward proposition these days, since new a new law was passed in 2008. The car will carry a branded title, but the brand is "assembled vehicle" and wholly appropriate, unlike "rebuilt" or "reconstructed", which implies previously wrecked. The inspection can be done at your home or office, as well as at specified inspection stations (usually body shops). If you live in an emissions county, the car will have to pass an emissions test for the motor (likely based on the year of the motor-I don't live in an emissions county). This can be a little sticky if you don't have full OBDII equipment; you'll have to find a shop that will do a tailpipe "sniffer" test. My Seven was purchased new on an MSO (Manufacturer's Statement of Origin). The level of paperwork on this type of car is likely higher than if you buy a previously titled car. A car with an existing title, from Georgia or another state, won't typically need the supporting build documentation. WARNING: your local tag/title office probably won't have anyone who knows the ins and outs of this process. Call the toll free number, wait forever, ask for the Salvage Section, and give them your cell phone as the contact number. When they call you back, you'll have a direct number to the Salvage Section for future use. The main office in Atlanta will have people who know the drill, if you have the stomach for going into the belly of the beast. It is possible to do almost all of this through the mail with the Salvage Section. A word about taxes: casual sales (between private parties) in Georgia are non taxable, so if you buy an existing car, there will be no sales tax liability. If you are buying a new car from a dealer, get them to split the invoices; one for the drive train, one for the kit, and one for assembly. There is a good chance that Dept. of Revenue will only tax some of the car. _____________ I posted this a year ago, but the laws in Georgia have not changed since, AFAIK. The problem in Georgia is that the head of the Department of Revenue has the power to make administrative policy through the Motor Vehicle Title Manual, so processes can change even when laws don't. I took a minute to review the relevant manual section and update the form links and I see a few changes in the manual. Don't listen to the local tag office, go straight to the Salvage Section in Atlanta (they have authority over kit cars). I insure my car with Hagerty and have had no issues with them, either on my 7, or the Beck spyder I had previously.

"Atlanta area" is a pretty big place! Me and my car will be at Atlanta Motor Speedway in the morning on April 17th for an Atlanta Region SCCA Autocross. If you live in that area, or just want to come by, I'd be happy to show you my car. Otherwise, I'm in Athens and can arrange a time to have the car handy at my business if you want to come by.

Here are some pictures of the solution my mechanic and I created. It mounts to extended seat frame bolts and weighs 10 lbs.

RE-11s are comparable to R1Rs (UTQG 140-minimum street tire rating) and both are common ST Class autocross tires. The consensus around the Atlanta Region is that R1Rs are better on lighter weight cars, while RE-11s are better on heavier cars. Also a popular choice is the Dunlop Direzza Star Spec, if you want to stay on (barely) street tires.