athens7

Knowledgeable, fast to respond by email or phone, and prices enough less expensive than the US alternatives (on my order, at least) to pay for the shipping. Also, delivery to the East Coast from the UK in 1 week! And they actually know stuff about Caterhams!! http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk

Physician, heal thyself! I love the answer to the question "what type of car is that?" "I'm pretty sure that's a Lambo, dude.", Looks more like a lame-o at this point.

The 1st letter is the country of origin. 1=USA, 2=Canada, 3=Mexico, W=Germany, S=England, J=Japan, 4,5=foreign transplant manuf. on US soil.

My understanding is that the red light is a low voltage warning light. It is on when the ignition is on but the car is not running to show it is working (as on a "normal" car). It should turn off once the car is started, unless the electrical system voltage is too low. I have no awareness of the red light being used as a check engine light, but my SVT doesn't have the light connected. I use a Diablosport Predator handheld tuning programmer to check my fault codes, and I have a couple of evaporative emissions codes, a high fan speed switch code, an OBD II test incomplete code, and one or two transmission output shaft speed sensor codes. All of these are supposedly normal, due to shoe-horning a transverse, front wheel drive engine into a longitudinal, rear wheel drive car using a completely different transmission. I suppose it's a minor miracle that the engine management systems work at all, considering.

I was told that the red light, which is not connected on an SVT Zetec, was the alternator light on a standard Caterham/Zetec installation (?).

It looks to me like Ian McCallum has gone to work for Volkswagen/Porsche. The rear quarter view of the 928 is a dead knock off of the Aston Martin, IMO. As to the LFA (Laughable F##king Activity), if Mercedes-Benz and Porsche lost their shirts trying to sell SLRs and Carrera GTs (which they did), than what chance does Toyota have making this business model work? Oh wait, I forgot about their racing heritage as a selling point, embodied by their recently concluded domination of the Formula 1 series! I guess losing $28 Billion isn't good enough for Toyota. Say what you will, Ferrari has discovered a profitable way to make stunning, dynamic cars that are true to their heritage and vision (are you listening, Porsche?) while functioning as a division of a giant mainstream car company, something these 2 manufacturers are really struggling with. I think the 458 Italia is a masterpiece; alas, a picture is probably as close as I will ever get to one.

:smilielol5:

It's a pretty car, but at the price the lack of provenance is disconcerting. A serial number from another car because the correct one was "lost during restoration"? What, did it wander off?:willy_nilly:

-New coolant temperature gauge (Stack?) -4 Bridgestone RE-11s -New fuel gauge (Stack-if I like the temp gauge) -Replace Mocal oil pressure gauge to match other Stack gauges -Annual brake/clutch fluid refresh If I have any time left over-polish the aluminum on Andrew's car:D

Pretty color combination + nice specs!

Great pictures! Thanks for posting them.

Very usable on my iPhone! Thanks.

Wow, $46K!

The cut off valve was installed by Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist, specifically to reduce heat in the cockpit. I will post a couple of pix in the next day or two.

That's pretty close to my numbers, especially since my stock temperature gauge reads a little low. Maybe there is some truth to that whole assembly line/quality control/modern technology thingy (at least where engines are concerned!).

I use a piece of foot well insulation to stop off the heater air intake; it makes a big difference over leaving the intake open. Also, I have a coolant cut off valve (in addition to the pull lever in the cockpit) installed in the incoming coolant line to the heater, under the bonnet. This prevents hot coolant from entering the heater core, further reducing heat in the foot wells.

To have a fraction of the support the Brits have for these cars-just the ads in each month's Lowflying...

Here's hoping he gets his price; it would bode well for the resale value of all our cars (of course, I wish I were a little taller, too).

It was a really hot weekend in my part of the country-if also thus where you were, maybe our cars (or the cones) were expanding slightly in the heat:D! If I paid more attention, I would have seen this thread and not wasted everyone's time!

Box, the thread IS interesting. After some feedback here and elsewhere, I am going to try the US (McMaster-Carr) version of the well-nuts with polycarbonate bolts on the front half of the wing and the stock set up on the back half. I've knocked the front half loose twice now, but done no damage to the body behind the back half. I would also like the wing to not come completely off when (not if) I hit a cone.

I killed a cone at 6X MPH this weekend, and pulled the rivnuts out of the aluminum body on the right rear wing. The holes are cratered out, and I'm looking for solutions that don't involve new sheetmetal. Any best practices out there, both for the repair and perhaps for strengthening the body (this is my 2nd right rear wing in 2 seasons-I need a car that is 2" narrower, but only on the right side!)?

My car has been as reliable as a brick-the time spent in the shop has been almost completely due to the driver's insatiable case of upgradeitis! Also, the only time my car understeers is hard throttle uphill; all other times, it is predisposed to oversteer.

Depends on who you ask!!

That's a really unfortunate looking car-maybe it has a great personality/really can cook!

Best phone I've ever had (3G). I do think the new 3.0 operating system strains the capabilities of the 3G phone-my more graphically intense applications don't run as well on 3.0, even after the programmer has modified them.