Marek

One is not enough? I am impressed!

Can you share pictures? I have only seen Tilton masters on these cars. What is your gearbox?

Congrats on acquiring the car! And fire away with the questions.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Ck3FMbA3i/ When will you ever again see a purple Seven sitting next to a maroon Seven?

Does MassTuning has any specific requirements for Sevens?

If you are considering the Beta tools from Pegasus, also look at the USAG and Facom from Ultimate Garage in NJ.

110mm or 114.5? The axle in my Rotus is from the Celica-Supra and definitely 114.5mm. I'd be surprised if Toyota was dabbling in multiple wheel patterns. The good news is 114.5 gives you plentiful options.

Aren't timezones the ultimate local issue? If you've ever implemented timezones in software, you've been faced with the choice of wracking yourself in frustration from the apparent madness or finding the humor in humankind's ability to complicate the rising and setting of the sun. Here in New England we have a different gripe with our timezone. As we poke way out to the east in Eastern Time, in the winter it can be dark by 4 pm; and so there have been serious discussions of adopting Atlantic Time. In the end, if we 'solved' this 'problem' would we miss having one less topic to complain about?

Yes, the common advice is to use a high-ZDDP oil in your Busso and Nord engined Alfas.

Two oils widely recommended when looking for high zinc content are Shell Rotella T6 for a synthetic oil and Valvoline VR1 Racing for a mineral oil. Both are easy to find. Others are available and finding them is a matter of finding spec sheets for the oil. Motul has excellent options for example, but not so readily available as the Shell or Valvoline. While I've long had the opinion that Mobil 1 is never the wrong oil, I believe they have reduced the zinc content in recent years and I have stopped using it for my pre-90s cars. Zinc content is a modern topic for classic and vintage cars as late model oil specifications for gasoline engines have reduced the zinc content for reasons I believe are related to change in modern valvetrain designs needed to meet current emissions or mileage expectations. That all of my 80s engines are known to prefer higher zinc has me always on the lookout for available options. For years Shell Rotella T6 was marketed as a 'multi-use' oil suitable for gasoline or diesel, but a couple of years ago they dropped the gasoline recommendation but the zinc and phosphorus content on the spec sheet remained unchanged. The suspicion is the higher zinc required for the diesel specification is too high for some of the latest Long Life oil specifications. I (and many others) still use it. Oil choices have the aura of witchcraft - not because they are complicated but because consistent information can be hard to find.

This seems like a situational problem to me as well. In the past ~6 weeks I've had shipments from The Netherlands, Germany, and Italy via UPS and DHL and from shippers accustomed to shipping to the US. One over the de minimis and the others below. All have been been quick and on time. As far as I can tell we aren't yet experiencing any significant shipping disruptions.

The nose is a clever take on the styling possibilities for a Seven by borrowing from decades predating the Seven. I see Healey Silverstone, Allard, and early 30s Ford Tudor hotrod.

Apologies for not posting the link.... https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-installation-operation-and-maintenance-manual.pdf The excerpt above is on page 10.

While the Odyssey is an AGM, not all AGMs are alike and Odyssey says their TPPL batteries require a specific charging profile. From the Odyssey manual: In order to recharge a battery that has been discharged, it is best to use an automatic charger with an AGM setting that has the appropriate charge voltage and current per recommendations. For optimum charging, the current output should at least 40% of the battery’s C10 rating. This means a battery that has a 10-hour rating of 100 amp hours should be charged with 40 amps. Charge current should never be less than 10% of the battery’s C10 rating. Voltages higher than 15.0 volts will cause irreversible damage to the battery. Please refer to Figure 2 below for a graphical representation of the recommended charge profile for ODYSSEY AGM2 batteries used in non-starting applications The NOCO chargers I tried would not provide the 14.7 volts. The battery would charge, but not within the Odyssey specs.

This thread helped me address a problem I did not realize I had; as so often happens on this forum. It convinced me to add lightness. My Seven came with a heater, but not connected and the fan does not work. I did intended to fix it eventually. But I've had to remove the cowl for other reasons and the heater is now out in the open just staring at me. This thread convinced me that removal is the obvious fix. In cool weather my lower body is never uncomfortable. And with a barchetta-height windshield, no heater is going to affect my upper body.

Yes, get a CTEK or Schauer; the preferred options on Odyssey's approved list of chargers. Both will use the multi-step charging profile recommended by the manufacturers of these batteries.

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Look for SFI "dual durometer" padding. It has inner and outer sections where the outer is less dense. Pegasus lists it as, "Dual Durometer SFI 45.1 Roll Bar Padding"

Another simple option for turning plates (to make the front wheels turn easily) is a square of linoleum (or other tile) lubricated with a spray bottle of soapy water.

I have this exact one. It measured out square, flat, and straight and has been repeatable and accurate for me. If ordering one, I would check it before relying on it. Now stringing a car or using plates, regardless of the tools you use, does depend more on the attention to detail of the user than an automated rack. My own opinion is the reviews are probably more a comment on the users and their cars than the plates. I've been stringing cars under various professional conditions for a long time, so my confidence might be higher than for some; but the technique is simple to learn. Most importantly, adjust the tips on the plates such that the plate is square to the wheel and they don't move between measurements. Make sure your measurements are repeatable.

One easy and accurate option is to align your Seven with a basic set of plates and tapes. For $35 you can find something like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114130836633

A Seven with a rotary, but I am confident not a Rotus - the front suspension is outboard and the nose and front bodywork are all wrong. Note the Mazda Cosmos sitting behind it.

@Reiver I've read the one notable downside of shipping containers for car storage is they can be quite hot and retain the heat. What is your experience? Does the pole barn help or solve it?

If I suspect coolants have been mixed, what is the advice on effective flushing of the complete system? A good flush is on my winter list. The coolant is off color and cooling efficiency has not been good with this car. So best to reset and start from a known place.

All-white harnesses have become common in professional motorsports. They are often labeled with colored bands according to the EIA color code. When built to a high and consistent standard, they are easy to work with. I have also seen harnesses use white and grey only; where one denoted the low current/higher gauge leads and the other the higher current/lower gauge leads.