slngsht
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Everything posted by slngsht
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I talked to Michael D today and forgot to ask :banghead: I'll probably talk to him again tomorrow.
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What happens when people build their own cars...
slngsht replied to Arya Ebrahimi's topic in Off Topic
pffft... that was such an organized mishap. Very orderly. :lol: -
Oh, that's not how I understood your first post. I thought you were saying even leaving one leg of the battery hooked up will cause damage. I think the rationale for disconnecting the battery is that it will actually isolate many circuits in the car that have keep-alive functionality.
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heh, main reason why i signed up. You better be there
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Yes, that is true.
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none :lol: their conclusion was that the battery acts like a capacitor when only one terminal is connected?
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well, I don't know what's "correct" since it's all home made I'm running -1 degree camber, 5 degrees caster (need to verify this). I cannot recall how much toe-in I'm running... maybe 1/32" or 1/16". Under other situations, I'm happy with the response of the car. It tracks straight, has excellent grip in corners, etc... I'm sure alot of trial and error is ahead, but this is the only really BIG problem I have not been able to overcome.
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well, the battery stores energy. Let's say the battery acts as a capacitor. A capacitor only stores energy when there is a charge differential across its legs... I could be wrong about this (there are some brainiacs here who will correct me), but you can supply +12V or +12000V to a battery or capacitor all day long, but if the other side isn't connected, it's not really +anything, because there is no voltage differential across its legs.
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Can you please explain about caster?
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It is a new condition, after new uprights, wheels, brakes, Aarms. There is only one suspect part of the suspension, and that would be the inner upper Aarm mount, which I will redo this winter. All the joints are new 1/2" heims. Aarms are .12" wall 1"D DOM tubing. I'm sure they're more than strong enough. I will double check my rack mounts. Everything is tight all the time. I'm pretty sure wheels just go into an up/down bounce during lockup.
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Only occures under pure braking... also did not happen with my old upright/wheel/brake combo. At that time I already had the LS1 engine.
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During braking? I thought the links angle down towards the rear, to provide anti-squat. I'm in Boston at the moment, so can't check the car. 100% sure they're not parallel to the ground.
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Where's the BAN button :cuss: :lol: When you weld the same thickness metal over and over again, it's hard to screw it up.
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Front rotors and pads are new... put on before the dragon. To make one thing clear... The brakes are fantastic. Smooth, no fade, and plenty of stopping power. The problem occures when the front wheel traction is exceeded - instead of going into a slide, they sometimes go into a shake. Otherwise, everything is as smooth as silk. I think based on your note here, I will experiment with keeping high rebound, and backing off on compression.
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The stalker is quite roomy
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either I've gotten old, or F1 has gotten boring. I haven't watched it since the days of Senna and Prost, but there are still ALOT of F1 followers, so must still be exciting. For the record, I have heard Hamilton did pass Alonso for the lead at some point in a race this season, but could be wrong. I think the most exciting motorsports on TV is off road rally or superbikes.
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I've done welding on at least 50 cars over the years, mostly in the early 90's when I owned a shop. All we ever did was disconnect the battery. We never fried anything.
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I have to run Linux Scientific for a software package that needs it on one of my contracts. Haven't really had a chance to play with it yet.
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In that case, maybe they're more like market price.
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when you say complete, is that including electonics and wiring harnesses? Considering other desirable engines generally cost 3K-4K, those seem really cheap.
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Large please. If you get it, I'll pay you at the autox
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I do, but I'm 1:40 minutes south of Aberdeen :lol: With any luck, I'll remember to bring your hat! Where can I buy that shirt?
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It's funny... you can build a Seven for twice the cost of a Caterham, or tenth of it, depending on what you're after. Honestly, I don't knock anybody's ride, Caterham, clone, Cobra, whatever - well, unless it has a big wing and spinners...
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I've been running 24 psi. Do you suggest I go lower or higher? I really don't want to go higher, because I think I'll lose some grip.
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Heh, that's where I've been playing... But my QA1 shocks are 20 out of 24 clicks on rebound and compression. If I jump up and down on the front of the frame, it doesn't even move anymore :lol: My springs are 425 lb/in now... was running 375 until today. I forget my lever ratio, but it is approx. 1.7:1... so my real spring rate in the front is 250 lbs/in now.