RGTorque

i sprayed the fronts with line-x. cost me $75 i think works great! http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/9678/cimg1964pu6.jpg

shell rottela t 5-40 synth api ci-4 is what i use in my daily car (tdi jetta) for YEARS with 10,000 oi changed (as per vw spec). the stuff is cheap too, about 16-19$ for the gallon container. i just looked at the shell site i see 2 of these 5-40 oils, one is the api ci-4 and one is api cj-4. ive used these interchangably in my daily driver (never noticed the ci-4 vs cj-4 on the bottle). would the newer product with cj-4 be good for my setup? http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynthcj4.html would 5-40 be to thin?

i would not worry about the wear. when i did my last inspection on the car 04/25/09 i could see NO wear. the ends looked like the day i put them in the car.

some good info here. ive been running the teflon inserts for almost a year now and they show no sign of being pounded out or getting loose. this time includes multiple autox days and countless miles of street driving.

the miata motor i have has been using regular dino oil since i got it. ive only one 2 oil changes but the motor is not new. i want to switch to synth oil for engine and turbo longevity and but im afraid of leaks because the motor did not use syth for the last who knows how long (no records on donor motor). the motor seems to be very low mile, its very clean but not the detailed kind of clean so im thinking the engine/trans has about 20-30k. what to do?

new pic added. as you can see there is a good amount of site support in these seats. im 100% sure they will fit your birkin but ill get some measurements tomorrow.

updates, so we have planned out how we are going to plumb water and coolant to the turbo. also planning on rerouting the thermostat to the back of the head in the future for more efficient coolant flow. the turbo header is also growing. there seems to be less room then we previously estimated so now the turbo will be mounted on some funky angle and hopefully it will clear the frame and hood. im not extremely excited about the way ports 1 and 3 will flow because of the piping but i think for how much flow i will require it will be fine. also im told that in the joints where it splits 4 ports to 2 ports the diameter of the pipe being used is smaller and better... something about decreasing the size of the piping causing the exhaust to increase in speed. im still shooting for pull boost at 2700-2800rpm. http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8996/cimg2664resize.jpg http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6462/cimg2665resize.jpg

im sure we will stir interest at carlisle so i vote just after may 17

Hello all, This post is geared mostly to the ultralite members here and as far as I know all cars built by Brian use chromoly heim joints. I’m not sure what other 7 type’s use these heim joints but if they do this is an opportunity for them as well. Chromoly joints have been known to wear, creek, squeak over time, and can make the car feel a little loose when driven on the street. to fix this issue i contacted Gary at fastener specialties and he set me up with fk heim joints with t2 teflon inserts. These joints have an estimated lifespan THREE TIMES THAT OF REGULAR CHROMOLY. Here are the part numbers for the joints that fit my ultralite, they would be the same for most of the ultralites. The prices below are what I paid for mine last year. if we get a few people ordering we can knock the price down a bit (25-35 cents per joint less then my past order). CMXL10-8T ----- 1/2 by 1/2 w/ 5/8 shank (18 on the car) $14 each CMX10T ----- 5/8 by 1/2 w/ 5/8 shank (4 on the car) $14 each CMX10-8T ----- 1/2 by 1/2 w/ 5/8 shank (8 on the car) $14 each CMXL8T ----- 1/2 by 1/2 w/ 1/2 shank (2 on the car) $12 each The shop I bought from is called fastener specialties and their number is (717) 249 1757. you can ask for Gary and tell him you want the same kit as Roman (me) or just give him the product numbers listed above.

some blood and a few hours later the oem miata manifold is finally out. also we picked the location of the turbo and planned how the cooling plumbing will look. http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1731/cimg2662resize.jpg

congrats!

what a deal!!! trade for my soon to be turbo 7?

small update. more parts to go on the car http://usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=39 car in the shop getting taken apart http://usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=40 http://usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=37

sold

http://www.egauges.com/images/autometer/Large_d/1502_d.jpg http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9885/cimg1153i.jpg new they are about $415, i would like to get $325 shipped for them. odo is currently at 300 miles. they work GREAT but im installing a turbo and there is not matching gauge. for this set. please let me know.

http://www.usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=31 http://www.usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=32 http://www.usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=30 http://www.usa7s.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=23

so apparently none of the pics are showing up in this thread they are all in PUBLIC gallery. dont know whats goin on. mazda, help a brother out.

i use ralley insurance through safeco. cost is $424 a year with $45,000 agreed value. im limited to 5,000 miles a year and somewhat limited to when i can drive the car (weekends, shows, events). dont dare say anything about going to a race track or they will put you up on a cross. i think my rate is good considering im 25 years old

thanks for the advice guys. i looked into the mazdaspeed mani/turbo but for the price $1200 from flyin miata i think i can do much better for a little bit more $. if you look at pic 6 + 7 you will notice a support beam right on the exhaust manifold. the worry is that while the turbo hangs low it will still be right up against that part of the car. i dont want to risk that much heat or have to deal with a an install in such a small space. i picked up a good used gt28r for $300, getting a custom stainless manifold made for $500-700 est, and have all the flanges i need for an additional $80. the turbo will handle more then then the mazdaspeed setup and i have the benefit of moving the to a much better location for cooling, ic piping and ease of install and removal

truth be told ive wanted to redo my exhaust since i purchased the car. this way i roll a part of the cost into some upgrades.