James A

Jim, I've used Cometic gaskets and ARP studs on street engines and race engines and have done a number of rebuilds and had no issue, here are some things I do on each rebuild though: -Deck the head and block to insure they are flat and have the correct surface finish. -Use the ARP thread lube when assembling, use it sparingly -Use the recommended 3 stage tightening sequence and absolutely follow the correct torque order -Once the head studs are torqued I walk away and recheck the following day and proceed with the rebuild -ARP has a stretch limit for their head studs, once they have a permanent set beyond a certain point don't reuse the studs they can yield, follow ARP recommendations -Although I don't use this, some very experienced builders recommend copper-kote be sprayed on the gasket surfaces -Always chase the threads in the block, if a head stud does not seat by hand all the way there are a number of issues that can occur -Make sure the threads in the block are cleaned out of all liquids and particles and use the ARP thread lube sparingly -Insure the washers and nut surfaces are smooth with no abrasions I'm sure others can add to this list, good luck.

Lots of good suggestions here, but I think your tire pressures are way too low. Toyo recommends 17-22psi cold and 22-29psi hot. On a typical autocross run you will not generate enough sustained heat to get to the hot recommended pressure. I would start with 22 psi cold and experiment with even higher pressure and monitor tire pressure between runs to see what you are actually gaining.

This is terrific news I have sourced my engine and gearbox from Jon when I built my 7 in 2002 and have since bought many parts and sought advice from Jon. I am glad he is back!

In my experience when a T9 is over filled the oil leaks out of the selector shaft at the front of the gearbox and drips on the ground under the joint between the bell housing and gearbox. I have never seen one leak out of the small breather hole on the top cover, I suppose it is possible but I haven't seen it. And, unless you have added a fill plug on top cover of the gearbox, as many have, it is hard to over fill it from the normal fill plug on the side of the box as it runs out when it is at the correct fill. I guess you could have the gearbox really un-level as you fill it but it would have to be really out of level. Are you sure it is not coming from a breather hose on the engine, or some other source? A little over a liter if the box is dry (if it is a refill a liter would be good) is the correct fill amount for the Type N T9 five speed

I have done 4, T9 overhauls now but they were all 5 speeds I don't know how similar they are to the Cat 6 speed though. Here you go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4i6b4ll85wqsfu2/%27N%27_Transmission.pdf

I have had many sets of wheels powdered coated and the heat used would have no effect on aluminum wheels! There is a great local powder coater near me who does a lot of automobile components, wheels, suspension parts, frames, brake calipers, etc.

i highly recommend having suspension components powdered coated. Once the bushings are removed send them to a local powder coater, if you can't find one there is one near me who does a great job on suspension components, wheels, frames, etc.

If it is the original Girling clutch master cylinder you can buy a rebuild kit from Pegasus Racing for around $20, it is very easy to rebuild. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3504

If appearance is an issue just buy caliper paint, the really good purpose made kits, and paint your calipers. When I rebuilt the Girling front brakes on the race car I painted them a matching color to the car:

Also if you look at Paul's (pksurveyor) pictures above the upper is the Cather 4 pots the lower is the Girling 2 pot.

Post a picture of them and let's see if someone can id them.

I have a street/autocross/track day Caterham SV with he AP 4 pots and an EP Race car that is required to have the Girling 2 pots here are the differences that I can attest to: The brake pad life on the 4 pots is significantly longer. The feel, ability to finely modulate the brakes is better on the 4 pots. Other than that, the car can be stopped in a similar distance, I have never experienced any fade of either brake. The two pots are super easy to rebuild yourself with a $25 kit, I haven't had to rebuild the 4 pots yet. My 4 pots fit inside a set of Caterham 13" wheels, but with just a couple of millimeters to spare. If you have the Girling 2 pots they are terrific brakes!

Mintex 1144 front and rear on the uprated 4 piston fronts, they work great on the street and on the track and no squealing at all. Also be sure to flush the brake fluid and use a high temp fluid.

Here is the Avon recommendation: http://www.avonmotorsport.com/road-legal/performance/zzs As to the lugs, the Caterham manual for my car list the torque as 55 lbft (75Nm) and warns not to over tighten. We retrofitted ARP lugs and tighten them to 75 lbft, for track/racing application.

Which Avon tires are you using and what size? Are your lugs standard Caterham issue or have you replaced them with an upgraded lug?