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Everything posted by scannon
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Here's the other video that shows the GT2 vs. the Vette.
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"Yeah, dunk my Se7en and die, scum". In my best imitation of Dirty Harry.
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Hooligans are the same everywhere. Hope it doesn't catch on here, Se7ens might be next if they realized how light the cars actually are.
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Welcome aboard. Fun times ahead during the build, funner times yet in the driving. Congratulations. Skip
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Into the canal
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Are they afraid your engine will gobble up all those tasty orange cones?
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WANT, WANT, WANT. MUST resist temptation. I'm having a serious bout of car lust.
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Great pictures Gert. Thanks for sharing. My Seven is back on the road.:hurray: All seems well and the new exhaust manifold went on nicely. Put about 60 miles on it today driving to an all Mazda meet at a Mazda dealer in Denver. No problems at all. Skip
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Great color Jerry, I saw your car at the Midwest gathering in KC. Nice to see you have retained the proper facial expression for a Se7en owner. Skip
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Quick update. I got the car running this afternoon. It had to idle for 30 minutes to cure the ceramic coating on the new exhaust manifold. I will test drive it later this evening as it has to cool back to ambient before I drive it again. As usual, what seemed to be a simple job got complicated. The exhaust was an SOB to get back on the car. :smash: It now sits about 1/4" further to the rear than before, something is different in the manifold or the down pipe got twisted a bit. Skip
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If not Corvette then it must be the yellow on the Genesis coupe from Hyundai. Just trying to second guess Gert.
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Welding and some common cleaning solvents can make some nasty gasses. Bad Stuff
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IMHO 1992 Sunburst Yellow or 2002 Vivid Yellow are much better. Both have the same HZ paint code. The Competition Yellow looks like a pumpkin next to the HZ cars. I might be just a bit biased here since I own one of each of the '92 and '02 yellows. When the time comes to paint my Caterham, it will be HZ. Our Miata club president ordered one of the Competition Yellows, waited 3 months to get it, took one look and said no way I'm buying that color. He bought a red one instead. He used to own the '02 that I now have. He is very sorry he sold it now. Wants it back but someone else has a deposit down on it.
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What A Promotion!
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I think printing out a copy of that section of the code and carrying it along with your registration and insurance card might be a good idea. I've asked several officers here in Colorado about ear plugs and have had different answers from each.
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I put my Se7en under a cover in my shop last winter but found I needed to see it and once in a while just climb in and think about all the twisty roads past, present and future. I no long use the cover in the shop. The California duster keeps it clean and shiny during the down times. I think what is weird for others might be normal for us. Skip
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Yesterday I removed the turbo and manifold from my engine to see if I could remove the sheared stud. I found some collateral damage. Note that the broken hanger bolt did not cause the damage described below, it only caused the one turbo mounting stud to break. The POS, outsourced to India, exhaust manifold had shrunk and twisted since the last time I had it off. I had to use two 3' prybars to get it off the 10mm studs on the head. I was worrying about damaging the ali head casting. In the process, right at the end I heard a pop, thought that didn't sound good and sure enough, one of the ears that provides the boss for a mounting nut had broken off the manifold. You can see it in the lower right of the first picture. This manifold has been a PITA since day one. The head survived with no visible damage. A quick survey with a straight edge revealed serious twisting of one of the end runners as well as a warped surface. I have a new, made in the USA, manifold on the way. The only good news here is I don't have to deal with removing the broken stud from the manifold nor do I have to have the old manifold machined and then spend hours making it fit on the head again. The mating surfaces between turbo and manifold were getting intimate as there was serious pitting on the manifold side and matching deposition on the turbo side. You can see that in the second picture. The turbo housing and downpipe are at a machine shop to get cleanup cuts with a surface grinder. The third picture shows the downpipe interface to the turbo outlet. Obvious leaking going on here but I noticed some leakage early this year. Getting it into a jig for surface grinding is a difficult job, I hope the machinist saved the jig from the last time.
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They had to do that for headlight height requirements. However, you can order the lower brackets from Caterham USA at a fairly reasonable price. I have them on my SV with smaller, motorcycle headlights and it looks a lot better that way. Congrats to Tom, Dean and Steve for their podium finishes at LOG29. :hurray::hurray::hurray:
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Mazda, I've noticed a definite improvement in comfort from wind buffeting the closer I sit to the windshield. My passenger seat can't slide forward due to the fire extinguisher mount so sitting on that side is brutal compared to the driver side. I slide the driver seat forward about 4" from the rear stop. Skip
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Jeff kicked some serious butt with that car back in the day, road racing, autocross and drag racing. Set some records with it as well. As an aside, his father, Bobby Ball raced Indy cars back in the front engine roadster days. Jeff found the remains of one of his father's cars a few years back and the son of the original builder restored the car which was featured on a TV documentary on the Monterey Classics a few years ago. Skip
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Most bikers seem to like Se7ens. I get lots of looks, thumbs ups and low five waves from them. Often at stops they come over to check out the car. Early on with my car I got a low five wave from a motorcycle cop. Like John said, we're brothers in twistedness.
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There are two bushings. The upper bushing is just slightly in from the dashboard surface. Only the upper one needs to be removed. Release the grub screw and lock nut and remove the clamp on the telescoping section of the column. Remove the steering column lock/ignition switch. This leaves a lug that is welded to the upper steering shaft. It will not fit through the bushing but it will fit through the outer sleeve the bushing is mounted in. You should now be able to pull the upper column back a bit before the locking lug hits the upper bushing. Use this slack to act like a slide hammer to move the bushing out of the sleeve. It has two rubber nubs that fit into holes in the sleeve and you have to apply enough force to compress them or shear them off. I don't recall it being particularly difficult to sit in the driver seat and pull back and forth briskly on the steering wheel to get the bushing to release and slide out. It does take a fair amount of force to get it started moving. Attaching a ratcheting strap to the hub and to a board across the roll bar as suggested should work as well. It never occurred to me to do it this way. Call me at 303 661 9914 if talking about it will help more than reading the above. Skip
