Austin David

Yep, I have the same sticker dust.

thanks for the heads up. If only there were some sort of international network of these forums, so members of one could have privileges in all

Yeah, I saw that post -- it's what got me poking at the TPS. I have no other negative issues than the lag when poked. Otherwise it pulls smooth and strong and is a delight at street RPMs when my wife is watching. That is, it's very smooth and well-behaved when needed. I can try backing the idle down a bit to build more vac, see if that changes anything.

Thanks. I pulled my cover today and removed the grommet for now. It was definitely close, not sure if it was under a lot of pressure but easy enough to prevent. I might fashion a rain cover if I get boreder.

I've got a bit under 3k miles on this 360 duratec. Stock plenum and airbox, paper filter, 360 cams. Some video of the behavior: Cold / Hot Basically there's a noticable throttle lag, a little worse when cold. It doesn't really appear when I roll on, and it's fine at WOT, though I haven't put it on a dyno. But it's fast as sh*rt so I don't think anything significant is wrong. I tried resetting the ECU to reset TPS. I also tried rotating the TPS a little forward and back, that didn't help the stab and it made idle worse. I've also put a K&N cone on the TB, same sucking behavior / throttle lab. I mathed it out, the cone had the same surface area as the paper so I kept the stock airbox in place while I work on the WAF for RBTB. Any ideas what's going on? And most importantly, is there an easy adjustment that doesn't involve flashing the ECU?

Catching up on this based on our chat yesterday. The problem you described (and showed me) seemed like a potential issue for *all* duratec cars, mine included. Could you describe the fix and maybe a shot of the wiring under the coil cover? You drive harder than I probably ever will, but the fix seems easy enough that I'm gonna just do it proactively. I've also read that tucking the coil wires might help keep that cover off my bonnet, so I mean to get in this weekend and see if I can clean it up, and prevent this "broken #4 plug wire" issue.

speedo calibration. I rightly guessed I had the Caerbont, instructions are here: https://www.caigauge.com/documents//product-instructions/spedometers/speedometers/pil042-460-3028.pdf It's not too bad: 1) drive real fast, 2) measure the indicated speed (what the speedo says) and actual speed (GPS), 3) do the math and poke the thing. 4) rinse/repeat. "real fast" should be probably the top end of what you usually drive. Like, highway speed. But very consistent, try to hold the same speed for a while. Because the gauge and human, it's easier to hold exactly a *0 or *5 speed, like 65mph or 70mph or whatever. I used a GPS app on my phone which showed a huge "actual" speed, and make sure that's stable and makes sense. Then you just go at the constant speed, confirm the GPS speed, and do the math: new PPU = old PPU * indicated / actual Turn off the car, hold the button down (the trip reset button), turn on the car. At the end of the gauge sweep you get programming mode, SETPPU. Hold for 2-3 secs and it shows the old PPU, write that down. Mine was 40816 from the factory. Multiply that by your indicated speed (60mph) and divide by GPS speed (54mph) -> 40816 * 60 / 56 == new PPU; round up. Per instructions you can enter this new value, retaining the leading zero (043731), when it flashes the whole number a quick press and it's set and shows DONE. Then repeat the process. On my first set, I was doing an indicated 80 and GPS 81, so I repeated the process: 43731*80/81 = 43192. If it doesn't start raining you can do that a few more times and tell your wife you were out all morning working on the car.

Mine always pick up sand. I agree that keeping them dry is the way to go. When they get adjusted it's a shot of silicone lubricant, then wipe em down when you're done so they don't pick up any more than necessary. It sort of helps...

Congrats on your 360S! I had a little weirdness in my setup and build, but was able to mostly puzzle it out from the 2015 guide and a few build logs. I think I posted all the hard-to-figure out stuff, but if you get stuck please holler! And, of course, be sure to share your pics

ah, thanks. I nuked pretty much the entire intake system (including TB) on my 98 NB (very similar block). I forgot about the coolant line to the TB. You would have had a lot of tubes at that front left tho, this oughta help a bit. It's looking great!

is that an air bleeder to help burp the system? I'm trying to place the water intake in my head. Is that on the LHS of the motor near the front? Like, near the knuckle / u-joint on the steering column to rack interface?

I'm sure it's fast as shirt even at 150. 200 is doable but probably on the high / crazy side. Very cool

Amazing. $12 audio sounds pretty good. Any guess how much power you're getting?

I mighta meant something else, but "topless" is the right way to describe it. something something "cheaper to rent." Thanks John, I actually have a door pocket I threw together, but haven't tried to tuck them behind a seat. I'll give that a shot this evening. My "form fitting cover" is pending overseas.... for now most of the people seem to be content to stand back and ask what it is. I'm not looking forward to someone getting more bold.

I'm in the southeast and it's summer, which sort of means I can reasonably predict weather about 1-2 hours out. How do y'all pack for road trips? note this is specifically about my Caterham gear but maybe applicable across seven-shaped contraptions. - I prefer driving au naturale when possible; ideal setup is aeroscreen, tonneau if solo. Aeroscreen prevents any other weather protection, tho. - half hood is good for sun protection but tbh I'm not convinced it will do much in hard rain. This is based on using it in hard rain. Fortunately it's small and easy to stow when not in use - full hood is lovely and stows well, but - doors are required in rain. Doors do not appear to stow well. So what do y'all do? For solo trips I can put the doors in the passenger seat while dry, and stow the hood. I can ditch everything for day-trips while the weather is suitably predictable. But it means the doors need to be ON while I'm going from place-to-place with a passenger. So what do y'all do? Doors on, hood off?

ahhh, true. I always liked the aft end of the westfield better. As if someone thought about it, and not just "what's the least amount of aluminum I can put here".

how torrential? I think I was OK in SC and GA, but FL rain (whiteout) was clearly too much. Half hood + both side curtains. I got water down in the boot even, had to air it out. Full hood in less-severe rain (but still a couple hours) and the boot stayed dry. The heat was bad with the hood and the half-hood, as long as the curtains are in place. So ... I *want* to love the half-hood, but for me it seems most useful as a suncover or light sprinkles, but proper biblical rain demands a full hood.

Not threadjacking (that S-1 is pretty neat) but will I get in trouble if I put an elan shift knob in my Caterham?

I still want one (an umbrella). I have experimentally determined that the half-hood is about as good as "keep moving" in terms of rain protection. The proper hood is significantly better. Half-hood is more a bimini for sun coverage, but it makes buffeting worse and obviously requires the windshield. The tonneau fits behind seats when not deployed (zero space occupied) and 100% protects the interior from sun while parked.

Does anyone know what this umbrella is? I was chatting with a friend overseas and their photos have a few cars with umbrellas of varying description

update: (some) new coolant hoses My kit was mostly complete, but I was missing much of the coolant hoses. I acquired some stand-ins on short notice to finish the build, but today I finally replaced the modine side with silicone. Also I used heat-shrink clamps for the silicone-silicone joints, I love them so far. I used parts from Pegasus, but there are equivalents in other places. My build is a wet sump duratec, which I think contributed to the confusion -- the missing tubes were for the extra modine. It's extra fun because the heater and water tank are 16mm or 5/8", and the motor side is all 19mm or 3/4". So there are two adapters needed, or some lube and sweet talking. I hunted a LOT for custom (single-piece) elbows with adapter fittings, but it doesn't seem doable in single-part quantity. parts list: 19mm @ 1m tube, 19mm joiner @ qty 3 16-19mm adapter hose (qty 1) 135* 19mm elbows @ qty 2 SB heat shrink clamps (for 19mm, qty 6) 19mm sleeved hose clamps qty 3 16mm sleeved hose clamp qty 1 In order of installation: the inboard fitting routes up to the tee between the motor and the coolant tank. (modine -> tee) is a 135* elbow to ~ 0.5m of hose, with a single 19mm joiner + SB clamps. I've got this one routing around the firewall and tied to the LHS frame support to stay out of the way. view from below, which really illustrates why 135* vs 90*: and above: For the heater -> modine: 16-19mm adapter, about 0.5m of 3/4 silicone, and a 135-degree elbow. Plus a pair of 19mm joiners and gates SB heat-shrink clamps. The radius up from under the block is wide enough that I don't need an elbow there. This line runs right between the accelerator stop bolt and the steering column; I've got a few pieces of rubber or plastic in the areas which look like they might rub. This line connects to the outboard modine port; the elbow is cut on both ends, lower side to fit inside the inboard run, the top side shorter to keep the joint below the steering column. Still plenty of room to make it up to the 19-16mm adapter to fit on the heater side.

$0.02 the heater is AMAZING and even with it off, the tunnel is self-heated.

I'm the wrong person to ask about "if it were my cash." I put $10k into rebuilding an engine on a free car. Fortunately I was able to distract my wife from that by spending far more on the 7. If your long term plan is that 1.6 with 100k miles and possibly forced induction, I would not cheap out now -- performance, or at least "pretty good." Like whatever you'd want to be in there in the motor's final configuration. If you're planning to pull the engine and sell it, maybe go "equivalent." For my cash I prefer to "cry once." That said, I just googled it and the price range is staggering. Oof. Is it worth the extra $250-300 (freedom units, no idea how well that translates) to not pull your head again in the future?

sorry if I missed this from a previous post ... are you doing a vanilla 1.6 rebuild, or are you rebuilding it a little more perky? Sounds like you're sticking with standard valves & springs ... same cam arrangement too? are you able to (do you have space to) re-route the cooling?

Thoughts and prayers...