Austin David

If you click around a lil you'll find some pics and writeups about the other setups -- @JohnCh and I have traded a few, for instance. Your setup is different than our Duratec-based systems. For the sake of future readers, could you post a couple more photos while you have it open, and of course share your experience when it's all sorted?

Any idea how fuel is getting from the filler all the way forward to your can? From the photo I assume the evap line is coming from the very tip top of your filler neck, then plumbed forward to the evap can. Then usually a purge valve between the evap can and your intake manifold. "fuel in the manifold" is clearly not ideal. In typical operation I understand that the purge valve would open to pull vapors out of the canister, which USUALLY is not a big deal. But if you're getting enough fuel in there to fill that canister and overflow into a catch can (then overflow THAT), something seems not right? The fuel tank needs to have some ventilation -- fuel expands and contracts, and as you empty the tank something needs to let some air back in. I'm pretty sure I have a vent in my filler neck up near the top, but I don't have a photo handy. Either way, I'd want to be sure I understood why fuel was coming out of the tank and down that line; if you block or otherwise vent the same tube that's delivering overflow to your evap can, it will just deliver overflow to your floor or something.

My 2021 doesn't have an evap system at all. Is there a local emissions requirement for it?

I didn't want them embedded - the editor asked me. WOT is hard to record on public roads, it's a very short lived event

Traffic was trafficky but I did get some representative noises for you. The first one is from a stop and less cluttered with wind noise. For all these my phone was in the cockpit and got decent audio without being overwhelmed with wind and LSD clunking. https://youtube.com/shorts/axEG7ke-TZw https://youtube.com/shorts/QmZrpB6WMS8 https://youtube.com/shorts/e78X_kXYZ2s WOT at 7k+ in 3rd is something to behold. I'm not sure I have equipment capable of capturing that experience. My intake is on the left about 4' from my face, I dunno how much difference that would make. When there's a jersey barrier on my side I can hear the valves, on the right I can hear the exhaust. In fairness to my LSD I only really notice in parking lots. Once there's any throttle or speed it falls below the noise. BUT! It carries perfectly through a GoPro mounted to the roll bar. All this is to say you should really be working on your CFO to plan this project. In order, I'd do aero screen, ITBs, 13" wheels, then the half hood. Also double check the 13 profile, I didn't think they were so much shorter. You get a lot more sidewall, which (I am told) makes for a smoother ride. If you need I could attempt to measure my clearance at the sump but it's probably under 4".

my understanding is the clunk tells you it's working! it's the "everything is OK" alarm. 17k miles, still as loud as ever

If you have clutches you'll know it on every turn, clunk clunk clunk

it just started raining but if your CFO is receptive to gentle nagging I highly recommend the ITB route. My official review is "I can't believe they sell a Caterham with a single TB". I'll try to grab some audio when I'm out next. Yes, I have the ME221 running well. It has a "spark scatter" which can drop idle a little, so cold starts are great and hot idle is great too. If you do go the "new ECU" route I can't stress enough the value of the CAN gauge. I can keep AFR, TPS, RPM, and trim all on the screen at once so I can watch the tune even if the laptop is not around. I have a wet sump. It has touched a few things but not super hard -- always speed bumps. Squirrels and stuff aren't a problem. I would prefer more clearance, but I also like not touching my brake for right turns so ...

put one wheel in sand and goose it. you'll know pretty quick. I got ITBs from AT power, they're fantastic. Double-check the "pull" direction for the throttle hookup! I had to put in a new ECU, which was a /project/ but the outcome is fantastic. If you're gettin 13" wheels, consider 13x8 in the back. They look better, and once you get those ITBs tuned it'll help.

NICE. Have you figured out if it's an LSD yet? ;-)

Nice! The design looks like you could scale it in x/y to accommodate a smaller or larger passthrough

y'alls BaT stories make me feel very naiive.

I just participated in my first BaT auction (did not win), so maybe I'm just figuring it out. Doesn't BaT pre-load the fee on your first bid? Is it possible to back that out with "some story?" I assume they'd also have to get a new account after some small number of mysterious wins + backing-out...

maybe the minivan has 800 HP? that would explain it. I agree, that 200hp does not seem at all like what I drive to the grocery store, where pinning even 3rd is an absurdly short exercise. It does sound good on the video, tho

Quick meetup with another owner in town, I don't think he's on this forum. The BRG with wings is so nice...

My alignment guy is 5 hours away and I have more than one car But it's 80% toy, like the rest of my garage

I pre-ordered a G2. They claim it can square the dedion. I'll post a review when it comes in, in 8+ weeks

Have you used it yet?

I have the Caterham half hood. It buffets BAD at speed. The idea is great but it's pretty tough for touring, the flat windscreen doesn't help. Instead I load up with head/face/arm covering, works well in summer. Basically hiking or fishing gear.

light update: I changed the throttle linkage. The ITB kit I got came with "center pull", which had the cable enter about horizontally from the intake manifold, directly at the filter plate. Probably fine for many applications, but not this one. I made it fit with a relatively tight 90* bend. This weekend I swapped out that linkage with a "left pull", which points at the front of the car. Got a new cable, and shortened it dramatically, to run from the pedalbox under all 4 trumpets, then up and around to the new cable holder which is between #1 and #2 trumpets. There's tons of clearance there, with the rest of the linkage between cyls 2/3. I underestimated how much friction my tight bend added; the new linkage has a very light pedal feel. Because I didn't change the TPS or the actual blade position on the ITBs, there was relatively little calibration involved. I did reseat the connecting bar between the left 1-2 bank and the right 3-4 bank, so I should double-check the vac, but startup and idle (hot and cold) are both exactly what I expect.

Interesting build. Spare tire and tonneau cover, but also 4-point harness. I love it

... And an uncolored one for a Miata.

Black walnut, colored with vinegaroon -- not really a dye, and still lets the grain come through subtly.

I've seen those; his work is amazing. I actually have a "plan" (parts list) for maple & walnut to match my triple stripe, but I'm waiting until I get the solid walnut before I make more changes.

I made a better shift knob. My S3 has little clearance to the dash, I don't care for the metal knob for several reasons. And I like wood. With this I'm able to get exactly the size, shape, position, and material I want. The current prototype is made from $5 ash, 1.0 will be black walnut. The process is a little tedious, but I'll share some details for future reference. Worked with @JohnCh to compare notes. 3D printed a lot of knobs. John noted that a 2mm diameter difference has a meaningful change in "hand feel", and I definitely agree. 45mm feels small, 50mm feels big, my "just right is at 47.5mm (before finishing). Final product is CNC'd in solid wood and hand-finished; details below. I personally like a long "neck" or skirt, and I don't like seams. This is a road car and in Charleston I ride 10 mos / year without gloves. To avoid bulk I dropped the standard brass insert and tapped the wood directly (details below). Ditto, there is no locknut or set screw -- it attaches and stays "clocked" on with friction, but I may use a little RTV to help manage vibration In final installation I'll put a small soft shim under the shift boot, to hold it flush with the lower part of the knob and hide the stick entirely. "final" product, pending my black walnut: Production: acquire or make a slightly oversized block; 2x2x6" ash, for instance. Square one end, this is the bottom surface. carefully drill an 8mm pilot hole to about the appropriate depth up from the bottom, centered and aligned. Tap it to 10 x 1.5 or whatever is appropriate. Drill out the lower part to about 10.5mm (or larger for a different transmission) to accommodate the unthreaded portion of the stick. I was able to run the pilot on my bench with hand tools, there's some room for error. inject liquid CA / superglue to coat the interior threads. Give it a few minutes, swab it out. Drying can be accelerated with water and rubbing alcohol. Do that again for good measure. When it's dry, run the tap again. Make a "sacrificial arbor" with a 10x1.5 bolt by sawing off the head. Screw in the arbor, fix it in the chuck & align to the bottom surface. Machine on that arbor. I ran a pretty gentle process to keep from overstressing the threads, but I think I had a lot of margin for error in here -- there are about 20-30 threads in contact at this point. Finish in place, then remove the sacrificial arbor and remount on the stick. Done! Frustrating limitations: I'd like to have machined the bore & threads, but my setup doesn't have enough Z-range to get a bit 2" deep into a 4" part. I'd like to have a hidden jam nut, but the threaded inserts & nuts are about 15mm across. I could maybe machine slightly smaller nuts and inserts, but that's still eating up about 4-5mm of "budget" in a place I'd like to keep small