Austin David

is that 620 dash (with all the switches) the reason I have about a million extra wires and unused (but terminated) connectors under my dash scuttle, and maybe half that many under the hood bonnet? nice color scheme, that's gonna be pretty sweet on the road

@sf4018 that's a great writeup. Reading between the lines, it really does sound like Caterham has some magic juju burned into their ECU. I tried to get an unlocked model from SBD for my ITB project but wasn't able to make headway, and I'm so far pretty happy with the flexibility in this ME221 unit. Like you, I probably underestimated the effort required before starting but I definitely know the car a lot better now than I did before...

Thanks, I'll take a look! Last night I figured out how to drive the FPDM from my ECU, I've got a sensor + gauge on order, and I think I can set up a feedback loop to maintain constant fuel pressure... I should know more this weekend. I'll post final configs when I've confirmed consistent pressure, but it looks like 10 000 Hz cycle, "negative" sense on my ECU. 75% is indeed off, and the full sweep is indeed 5-50% duty cycle, which definitely ranges from "FP barely running" to "sounds like full blast". I've also got the ECU taking over the fuel relay. Pending confirmation over the weekend (and hoping I don't jynx anything) I should be able to have the ECU enable/disable the FP entirely, and drive it from 10-100% to maintain a target pressure.

Saving some info here, for posterity: https://www.scannerdanner.com/media/kunena/attachments/417/fpdmtheory.pdf Electronic Returnless Fuel Systems (ERFS) utilize a Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) to control fuel pressure. The PCM uses a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor (FRP) for feedback. The PCM outputs a duty cycle to the FPDM to maintain the desired fuel rail pressure. During normal operation, the PCM will output a FP duty cycle from 5% to 51%. The FPDM will run the fuel pump at twice this duty cycle, e.g. if the PCM outputs a 42% duty cycle, the FPDM will run the fuel pump at 84%. If the PCM outputs a 75% duty cycle, the FPDM will turn off the fuel pump.

My plan is to run this one "bang bang" for now; 100% on (bypassing the fuel pump control module), driven by the ECU. This ECU has a way to run a general-purpose map and PWM, so maybe it's possible to drive that FCM somehow. Docs are pretty scarce so I'd be guessing... plan "b" would be a $100-150 self-regulated in-tank unit, or a regulator at the rail + return line. I don't think I'd want to bother trying to fake out that FCM, rather than just rebuilding the fueling with something better understood. If this blows up or causes me any trouble I'll be sure to speak up

there are only 4 wires headed down into the tank; I assume (based on other cars) two are for the sender, and two are for the pump. Is there a feedback mechanism between the fuel pump, and that controller? if that's a new photo, can you stand a little further back and get shots of the wiring up to the socket at top?

for reference: the "stock" 360/420 setup includes a control module up by the tank, next to the fuel pump. Also the alternator generates not-insignificant noise that is heard by the crank sensor. It's the OEM sensor still, so I assume the original ECU either ignored the noise, or was able to filter it better. Once I get fans and fuel pump sorted, I'll figure out if I need to do something about the charging system.

I know several of those terms To my knowledge there's a regulator in the tank. If I blow up my fuel pump in the next 8 years I'll look at a return line and regulator up by the fuel rail. For now, based on what I've seen and touched, there is no regulator outside the original tank and no sensors. It's a single soft line coming off the fuel tank, clipped straight into the fuel rail, and the rail doesn't have a regulator on it. My setup has a wideband sensor on it, and I will be watching AFR pretty closely. If I burn a fuel pump early, or if I feel like I'm getting starved for fuel, I'll look at adding more $$ magic in line. From what I can see so far (famous last words...) I should be OK with the simpler solution.

My car has a Ford fuel control module on a Ford engine. I could speculate why it was included on this car, but mostly I'm trying to puzzle out what I miss out on by ditching it entirely. In theory (hard to test) the Caterham ECU would use it to modulate the fuel flow. In practice... ? I'm sanity-checking with the ME guys to see if they can drive this fuel pump module, but I assume the recommendation will be to simplify and add lightness, by removing it and splicing or repinning a couple connectors.

https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20842 Confirmed the "bypass" method works. My limited research says basically the same thing: it's used to modulate pressure, based on sensors we don't use, or can cut fuel based again on sensors we don't use. Odd. With the bypass in place, the fuel pump runs when the relay is on (ignition on). this might be my best option, I don't see a straightforward way to engage the fuel controller without inventing something worse than a bypass... Thanks for the tips, @JohnCh

Yep, pin 33 is the signal wire to the controller. Did some more research, that controller wants some sort of duty cycle. I can sort of trick it into running if I cycle that pin, but nothing I can obviously make my new ECU simulate. The new ECU will happily just run a fuel pump via relay, so I'll look into what's required to just bypass this controller entirely, and let the ECU drive the fuel pump as nature intended. Any idea why that controller is in use? We already have the inertial, and in some cases an external cutoff. What does this controller provide that we wouldn't get from an ECU-managed relay?

Ah yeah this definitely explains the problem. I'd like to drive that extra control module with my new ECU, any idea where I can track down that connection? I'm using a whole new ECU, the MBE is disconnected entirely. The new ME ECU has low side signalling or I can tinker to get the FP running. Worst case I could bypass the controller entirely and run the relay directly from my new ECU.

Background: 2021 Caterham 360S, Duratec motor. I'm swapping out the electronics (ECU) and intake with an ITB kit. Before I unplugged the original ECU, it ran perfectly. How does the fuel pump work? - I can hear it prime when I turn on the ignition. I can also feel the relay engage. Removing the relay, fuse OR unplugging the inertial switch will prevent this. So I feel like the FP is engaging when the ignition is on, and is continuing to receive power. - I do NOT hear the pump running when I try to start the car. - I cannot find any direct connection from the original ECU to the fuel pump, and as noted I think the FP is controlled by the ignition, not the ECU. Based on the fact that the relay closes when the ignition is on, and it stays closed. In the old (2015) manual there are 4 connections shown to the fuel tank; two black (B10 / B11), one GB148 which terminates at the fuel gauge, and one YG168 which terminates at the inertial; other side of inertial is marked YG167. Confirmed, inertial has two identical-looking yellow / green wires. As above, with ignition on / ECU disconnected, I can repeatedly prime the fuel pump by toggling that inertial switch. I have been able to "milk" the pump to hold an idle, by unplugging/plugging the inertial every second or so, to engage the FP priming. Otherwise the FP doesn't seem to want to run consistently, and (without fuel) the engine won't idle. Based on all the above I feel like the FP isn't running enough, but I'm not sure how to trick it into running more. What am I missing?

Great review! I still love my original Beeline. The routing / app is great, better than others I've tried (like, a dozen different apps) especially for longer, mutli-point routes. Anyone can use the app "free" without a device, if you'd like to try it. The upside of the device is (as noted above) it's small and easy to mount, and it is designed to work well in direct sunlight. My phone does NOT handle direct sunlight well, or even almost-direct like under the tonneau cover. @JohnCh i'm curious what you think of battery life; or more specifically, if the Moto II retained the "way more than actually needed" battery. My Moto claims "30 hours" ish, but that's ACTIVE hours. I only actually charge it every month or so. I worried that I would need to solve a wiring problem in my car, but that has not been a concern.

more significant update: starting my ITB project. Background: I want street (low-end) cams like my 360, but want to fatten up the curve a little. At one time Caterham had an "R300" build or somesuch, RBTB without the cam swap, but with the locked ECU they no longer offer the package and I was not able to find anyone who would / could fix the ECU. I got an ITB + ECU package from ME: AT Power mechanical, ME221 ECU and a pre-wired harness: https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/product/at-power-ford-zetec-direct-to-head-itb-and-ecu-kit-copy/ I won't go into gory details here unless someone is particularly massochistic, but I will catalog the surprising gotchas. 0) if you are ever doing anything with wiring, spend a few hours making the scuttle removable. There are videos, you basically drill out 26 (?) rivets and replace them with m4 rivnuts. If you drive without a helmet, think about rattles while you're reassembling (strategic foam tape). 1) the CANchecked gauge is fantastic. I would recommend this upgrade regardless. It can take six analog inputs, CAN input (from my new ECU), OBD2 etc. At the very least, would be a replacement for the water temp gauge, and could incorporate oil temp. Not as pretty as the analog Caerbont, but it's a close match and not hard to integrate. 2) the factory ECU is pretty small. The ME221 won't fit in the same location. It MIGHT be made to fit if I changed the battery mount a little, but I'll probably just move it over one of the footwells, and lower the battery. 3) the old harness is wired in pretty hard, I assume I'll have to be cutting it out at some point, and re-wrapping a lot of old wiring. Looking under the scuttle there's also a lot of extraneous, unused wiring; I assume Caterham has one or possibly two types of harnesses used for every flavor of build. I'll also be removing a lot of this. 4) The new harness is pretty different. Might be easier to just get a naked harness and crimp on my own connectors. I think I'll be able to directly use a few (like 1-2) as supplied, but most will get replaced: injectors, coils, TPS, etc. I assume this is not shocking for anyone who's rewired an engine, but I was hoping* a "duratec" loom would fit a "duratec" motor, but ... here we are. At the moment I'm reassembling my intake and will do some additional "homework" with the car running. I'll be proactively checking ALL connectors, I've got some light mechanical work to fit the throttle cable, etc. I basically disassembled everything: ECU out (harness still in), battery/heater/scuttle out, airbox/plenum out. Got some notes on what to modify or fix. Each new discovery requires either a domestic or occasionally international shipment, so I'll do the homework under a running car, rather than just leaving it out of commission for a few extra weeks.

FYI that flickr link is not open for viewing. Maybe the album needs to be shared?

you're right, that is quite attractive

I drove about 4 hours through various rain at highway speed with the half hood, then back a day later with full hood. The half is better at lower speeds, but it's liveable. You get a little blowing around the sides behind the door, but not terrible. Your boot gets wet but not a LOT lot. If you are just talking about trailering I'd probably go with the full hood, tbh. Neither of them are much fun to drive with, so if the question is really "which hood do I install while it's on the trailer" maybe just go for the full monte. Attachment is about the same. If you're asking whether to install just the straps for the half, or the frame for the full, I'd leave the frame off

by "levels of illumination" are you talking day vs. night vs. ?? I'm curious what you figure out. I've done "this" a few times and have only gotten as far, reliably, as using "are the lights on" as an indicator for brighter/dimmer. It's definitely not perfect, but seems to be more reliable that using some other method (like a light sensor). My current 7 rollbar light uses the running lights on/off to also signal whether to set overall brightness lower or higher. In my Miata, the headlights on/off signal changes the backlight on the boost gauge. My only other feedback is that the relays need to be pretty robust. Once you tuck it all in it's gonna be annoying to tuck it back out and troubleshoot a sticky relay. If you haven't found 'em already, there are 5v/12v octocouplers & 4- , 8-channel boards that make the conversion easy and can take care of driving relays if needed. Also straight up relay boards which might be easier (3.3 or 5v in, drive a few 10A relays). And honestly, if you've still got a few open channels (A0-7) you could pull in signals from run/brake/turn/backup/rain lamps and drive an LED strip on the rollbar...

solid work on the brake light mount! And I loooove that steering wheel. That came out great.

Cannot confirm, but my only cable clutch experience is motorcycles. A well bled hydraulic should be nice and tight, th clutch circuit is very short and simple. Depending on the car there shouldn't be much hose, and hopefully that is reinforced...

Not the same engine, but I've found that my isotunes earbuds help a lot with clatter, while passing intake and exhaust music

beautiful. I like the look of the angel wings, classic-style grille, and the road tyres. If it makes you feel any better my new Duratec doesn't love starting below about 40F, either. Yours sure sounds great once running! Hopefully you'll get to break it in once spring hits...

Build update: I mounted the seat heater switches. Final wiring: 12v + ground leads directly from the battery, plus a trigger wire off the fuse panel. The pad leads are very long, ran them under the console all the way back to the seats, then down under the carpet to pop out by the seatbelts. I stuck a terminal block inside my fuse panel cover (RHS footwell, about over a passenger's knee) and wired the 12V + trigger there, and fed off both seats. The excess wire was zip-tied and looped, and the two controllers were bundled in some terrycloth for noise abatement and tucked up there too; plenty of space. The switches are about 12" from the controllers; I drilled out two spots under my fan & windscreen heater buttons. Those two switches connect directly to the controllers. Because I didn't trim the original cabling I have one inline fuse on each side, plus my "main" inline fuse coming off the battery directly. I chose to pull power from the battery because I couldn't decide where to drag an extra 10+A from the fuse panel.

Have you figured this out yet? If no, maybe VHB tape backing the zip ties? If it's before the radiator it should stay cool enough, and the tape may be thick enough to handle that rough surface.