das76

There is a company in Europe that does this in all carbon fiber so they are rigid . I was on their website last week but I can’t recall their name. I’ll see if I can find it in my history.

sure. Want me to pay you to take them from me ? Hahaha

my inner purger and minimalist is getting rid of cr@p I don’t need haha

does anyone want these ? No charge. just pay shipping. Send me your postal code or zip code and I’ll get a shipping quote There is most of the wiring in the headlight bowls and everything worked before I pulled them off my car last month.

@Vovchandr resurrecting this post. Where did you find those hex bolts/washers ?

Just because it says out of stock at Caterham doesn't mean it is. They can pull parts which are allocated to production. They did that for me for the doors. I would call them and talk to them.

Stephen there are different 1/2 hoods depending on the rollbar you have, since some roll bars are more vertical and some tilt forward more, therefore the dimension of the hood varies. So just a heads up that you don't buy the wrong one.

half hood is another option and one that most people seem to use nowadays

Why? Just why??????

Thanks. That would make sense as I’ve heard that there are ~100 here in Canada and we are typically 1/10th of the US. Good info. I’m cooking something up that might help everyone stay tuned.

Does anyone have a good estimate as to how many S3/SV Caterhams / Lotuses are in the USA (I’m not interested in Birkin, Locost, Westfield, etc figures for this purpose )

Thanks. I posted here last year about ITBs and that sounded like a bigger project than i'm willing to take on. I'll look into the Raceline water rail - thanks for the tip. Do you run this on yours?

awesome, thanks @Vovchandr I'd love to tidy up the engine bay - it seems quite busy, but I'm not sure how much can be done with the SVT in there, as I'm sure it's more complicated for a reason (likely more HP). It's definitely low priority - basically a make work project - haha. But I'm open to ideas if you've seen any!

Hi folks with Zetecs, I'm curious as to the differences in the Zetecs and or valve covers I've seen on a few Caterhams. My car looks like this (Zetec from a 2003 Focus) and has a sensor of some kind in front of the forward spark plug/cylinder But some others look like this. The valve cover is simpler - cleaner - Ford Zetec marked on it - but no sensor in front of the forward cylinder. (photo from Klasik-69)

I installed the flasher unit shown above. All is right in the world!! Case closed. Thanks all!

There are 4 wires for the rear lights: Black (ground) Red/White Green/Purple Green/White I'm assuming someone here know which one is for each function? Also, what gauge wire is used ? I'm working on a neat project that you guys might find interesting.......... stay tuned.

Thanks. I also posted on a Facebook group and several people said to replace the flasher relay. It’s very frustrating that Caterham a) don’t include it or b) don’t mention that you should order it separately anyways… I’ve ordered one online and it should arrive Tuesday and I’ll provide an update.

has anyone installed the new Caterham LED taillights and got them working properly? my car is a 2005 Zetec if that makes a difference. I followed the video instructions (it’s pretty straight forward) from the Caterhamparts.co.uk site but I’m having all sorts of issues such as: 1. the left and right turn signals flash at double speed - which is the sign of something wrong 2. The lights are dimmer when my headlights are in and brighter when DRLs are on 3. The hazards flash at normal speed 4. Sometimes the lights are brighter and sometimes they are dimmer my car does not have the standalone reg fog light at the back like UK cars do so I haven’t plugged anything into that pigtail. Could this be the issue? I have tried putting the wiring loom in both ‘ directions ‘ i.e. left side of the loom on the left side of the car , and left side of the loom on the right side of the car a few vids : https://share.icloud.com/photos/0200nRzHUiiGKlyx6w_QAdpUw https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ea0yXh2q-23_b7pvliJMzEbA https://share.icloud.com/photos/039MLwf1QVx1X158hjbXeXXZw https://share.icloud.com/photos/0caIvXkYtOna-mRm1gNGdYuDA

@windsurfer See attached picture. Caterham made it easy. The distance from the true middle of the mounting at the suspension arm "A" to the true middle of the "donut" where the lights actually mount "B" is 3" inches in all 3 directions. I measured as best I could since my lights are already installed but even if they are out by 1/8 to 1/4 it will be close enough. Don't forget that the top of the "donut" (B) needs to be level but the suspension bolt isn't level I hope this helps. Post a pic once it's done. Good luck.

They did! And they look much better - in my opinion! I guess after a few iterations they finally got it right! haha i just finished the update on my car :

@windsurfer i meant to measure mine the other day - sorry. I'll be at my car tomorrow and will take the measurements for you. @MV8 It looks perfectly fine to me. The new style brackets mount to the front of the upper A-arm mount

All done !! Looks a billion times better. Now onto installing the Caterham LED taillights - next week

Left side done. It was much easier the second time around - of course. tomorrow I’ll tighten up the arb and put the hood and nose cone back on.

So I elected to simply bend the tab back. Rendering it useless in terms of stopping the light assembly from tipping down. If it does tip down then I’ll use a self tapping screw as a second fixing point. Someone somewhere posted a picture of that. I though it was here. Anyways it’s already starting to look a lot better. Much less ‘buggy’

factory paint so I’d hope so!!