hahuang65

Pretty sure...but we will find out for sure soon.

It's a brand new Duratec + Mazda transmission.

I'll definitely pick up a copy of the book... I was just going to bring this image I found off the Internet Hah

@panamericano I will likely have to get another pass cuz of my clutch issues...so I'll try for the 30 day next time with a different agent.

@panamericano I tried to. Couldn't do it without an active VIN in their system. Unfortunate, cuz having a 30 day would have been awesome

@Gene_W here's what I found out about titling and registration in Texas... Take this with a grain of salt as I haven't done it yet. I was going to do it this coming week so I did a ton of research including talking to tax assessor employees but that got pushed since I have to deal with this clutch leak now. So the process is 1) collect your documents: I've got a bill of sales for the drivetrain (engine and transmission) and a bill of sale for the rest of the stuff. It's important it's two separate receipts for reasons revealed soon. Also the Manufacturers Statement of Origin. This is what has your chassis code (which will become your VIN). Having this means you won't have to go to the sheriff's office for a VIN verification. 2) do your ASE safety inspection. Pay attention here as there are two forms. You want to fill out VTR-852 https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-852.pdf You do NOT want VTR-64 https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-64.pdf The reason is because if you title as a Custom Vehicle that is a replica (1957 Lotus), then you're only subject to the inspections for that year...in our case, even though we have OBD2s, they aren't compatible with emissions testing. So we want to be able to never have to do any inspection. A regular assembled vehicle will be subject to the year it was assembled. The key difference here is why I got two bill of sales, so that it doesn't constitute a single kit. I technically bought the power train separate from the chassis. You want to be able to say it's not a single source. If you fill out the VTR-64 and take that to the DMV, they will ask you to get your emissions inspection done and bring that paperwork. 3) fill our your title and registration application according to the same make and model as you stated on the previous form https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/130-U.pdf 4) fill out VTR-61 making sure to show you bought the parts separately https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-61.pdf 5) go to the county tax assessors office to get a One Trip permit. This is the only permit that doesn't require a VIN. This will let you drive to the ASE inspection and Catscale weight certification. 6) get your ASE inspection done (take form VTR-852 for them to fill out). Make sure they also print our the inspectors ASE current certifications. You'll want to call around to find a shop that can do this service. 7) get your weight certification at a Catscale station. Note that after this you don't need to take the Caterham to the DMV nor the tax assessors office. They never need to see the car in person. 8) Take and print pictures from all sides of the vehicle, as well as dash and VIN in the engine bay. Also needed is a photo of the car you're supposedly replicating. 9) take ALL of the above to the DMV and hope you get a good agent that will accept everything and give you a letter to allow you to title. 10) take that letter and ALL the previous docs back to the tax assessors office and get your title and registration. https://comptroller.texas.gov/taxes/publications/96-254/home-shop-made.php#:~:text=Motor vehicle tax is due from the person who custom,to build the motor vehicle

Tried bleeding more to no effect. Full puddle... Brake fluid reservoir fully drained above the clutch line.

The driveshaft/propshaft that connects the transmission to the diff... Do I need to unbolt it from the diff to pull it out of the transmission? I imagine if I just try to lift/angle the transmission immediately, that'll do some damage to the splines? I suppose that begs teh question.... will I need to remove the diff to move the propshaft?

Possible to just pull the engine out without the transmission,or will it have to come out together? I've an S3 chassis.

I was bleeding the clutch today, and JUST as I was getting a stiffer pedal, something seems to have popped. All of a sudden... the pedal went loose again, as if there was no fluid... and the fluid started draining back into the bleed screw... Then, brake fluid started dripping out the bottom of my bellhousing. I checked around the bleed screw and stuck a Q-tip into the bellhousing and swabbed all around... no fluid there. It seems like something further down must be leaking. I was on the phone with my dealer and it seems the conclusion is that I'd have to pull the engine (and probably the transmission out) in order to really diagnose what happened. I'm kind of desperate for any second opinions or other ideas I could try before I start dis-assembling this thing.

So to be clear, I think the recommendation to title as a Custom Vehicle is so we can title as a 1957 Replica, and thus skip all required state inspection, including emissions. When you titled as a 1991, what year was it? It may have been the case that your car was already more than 25 years old, which allows you to skip emissions. My car won't be more than 25 years old if it's titled as a 2024 Caterham. I don't think it's possible for me to do emissions, hence the thread.

Do you have issues with emissions testing? It doesn't seem like our cars can do the OBD2 testing. Also whereabouts are you? We should meet up sometime, along with @IamScotticus too! I'm in Spring

Off the stilts! All done!

Yeah I've found another inspector who said it won't be an issue..So I'll head over there next week.

May I ask what the dipswitch settings are? I'm sort of fighting with my tach right now in a different thread

Yeah, my dealer told me if 1,2,8 are on, flip 1,2 off... and if only 8 is on, flip 1 and 2 on. That picture I posted is how I found it so I flipped 1,2 off. I couldn't see 8, but I should take the tach out and double check. The inspection place I called told me that it's best I should have everything working before I go to them... I can try to call around, but the inspection places are just anywhere there is an ASE master tech, and they sign off on my paperwork. What's the plug lead I can use in the Caterham? is it already wired to the existing tach? Any links to these, mostly cuz I don't know what I'm looking for.

Just noticed @MV8 posted this Is this relevant to my gauge on a new 420R? I thought it was supposed to be 1,2,8 on or only 8 on... but this suggest 1,3,8 on.

I assume this has been taken? Also, curious, did you replace this with something? If so, what was it?

My tachometer on my new build seems stuck at 8k+ RPM. I didn't notice until after I started the engine, but it looks like, when it arrived, it was at 9K RPM (see pics) When I started the car up, I vaguely recall that I saw the tach cycle/move... but now it's at 8k-ish RPM. I tried the dipswitch toggles... I had 1,2,8 on, and so I flipped down 1 and 2, but that doesn't seem to have changed anything. It's getting power as it lights up and the battery and handbrake indicators work. However, as RPMs change, the tach doesn't move. Wondering if anyone knows if there's anything else I can try besides get a new one. Also any recommendations on a tach I can get here in the states, even just as a temporary one so that I can go get inspected/titled while waiting for the warrantied one to come in. I feel like with customs and tariffs being what they are, I'd be in for quite a wait. PXL_20250820_160632876.mp4

I do live in an emissions count: Montgomery. From what I gather, the only inspection is done by an ASE tech. I don't take my car to the DMV nor the tax assessors. There is a different form for the ASE tech depending on how I want to title it I guess? https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-852.pdf Vs https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-64.pdf So I think if I just fill out the forms as a Custom Vehicle Replica, I may be fine. The only trip up is that the MSO states it's a 2024 Caterham that is a replica of a 1957 Lotus. I'm wondering if that's a snag at the DMV/Tax Assessor when they look at the paperwork.

@IamScotticus I just read this on the Factory Five forums

Jeff suggested I title as a Custom Vehicle Replica in order to avoid the required emissions testing. However things aren't looking great. On this page it seems that Custom Vehicles can be allowed to bypass emissions However, the section on Kit cars (specifically the second part) suggests that they won't allow it. If anyone has any guidance on how I should approach this, that would be fantastic. Currently I'm assuming I just only put that it's a replica of a 1957 Lotus and make no mention of Caterham or the model year (although it states both on my Manufacturer Statement of Origin).

Just talked to Craig, but he hasn't done any titling yet. I'm gonna try Jeff in a bit.

Wondering if anyone has any tips or pointers here to get through it smoothly. I have my insurance set already. Thanks in advance!

Just about done! Electrical yesterday and engine today! Just wings and seats and trim left!