hahuang65

How do I do this? I'm guessing right when the propshaft pops, have a pan under? I've got a drain plug, I can probably also just plug it at this point?

Assuming this implies when pulling the engine, it'll just slip out when I inch it away?

@toldfield thanks for your time. I might have to remove at least some of the bolts of the diff to tilt it.

This is what I attempted today. I removed the 4 bolts, but when I slide back, it stops at the diff, and the propshaft is probably still. 3 inches into the transmission still.

First, sorry for the flood of topics recently. Still trying to get my head around having to almost disassemble the entire car right after starting it up for the first time. I've got everything out of the engine bay tonight. There are only 2 things left that I need to tackle before I can pull the engine. 1) I need to pull the propshaft out of the transmission. I thought I might be able to do that without having to undo the diff, but it's looking like I might have to. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for me to do it without removing the diff? (See pics) 2) Is there some way to pull and replace the engine without having to undo those TERRIBLE spring clamps for the exhaust collector? I've removed the rear of the exhaust, and undid the headers from the block. Currently the headers and the cat are resting on a box that's the correct height. Just pulling them out of the bay as far as I can doesn't seem to be quite enough.

I've got some questions,and I'm not sure how much of it applies since I have a Duratec... But here goes 1) is it possible to remove the propshaft from the transmission without removing the diff? I can't seem to find the clearance. see pics 2) are you able to pull the engine and replace it without undoing those insane spring clamps for the exhaust collectors?

Thanks for the tips..the steering column was really easy to remove. So I just did it just in case.

@Vovchandr thanks for explaining. That makes sense.

May I ask why this is an issue? I think I need some education around this.

No issues with State Farm. Mine got insured as a 2024 Caterham 420R a week ago.

So, if you've been following my saga, I need to pull the engine. I'm assuming I need to also remove my steering column to make things possible/easier. I'm wondering if I can somehow just remove the lower column since that's what would affect the engine. My guess is no, but worth the query. Anyone got tips on how to remove the lower column, or if I have to remove both, how to remove the top. I'm a bit worried about busting something in the top section of the steering column if I just yank on the steering wheel. I have a QR steering wheel, FWIW.

It does have a tiny opening at the top for the clutch line and bleed screw but it's too small to look through. I'm pulling the engine anyways. We will find out soon.

Pretty sure...but we will find out for sure soon.

It's a brand new Duratec + Mazda transmission.

I'll definitely pick up a copy of the book... I was just going to bring this image I found off the Internet Hah

@panamericano I will likely have to get another pass cuz of my clutch issues...so I'll try for the 30 day next time with a different agent.

@panamericano I tried to. Couldn't do it without an active VIN in their system. Unfortunate, cuz having a 30 day would have been awesome

@Gene_W here's what I found out about titling and registration in Texas... Take this with a grain of salt as I haven't done it yet. I was going to do it this coming week so I did a ton of research including talking to tax assessor employees but that got pushed since I have to deal with this clutch leak now. So the process is 1) collect your documents: I've got a bill of sales for the drivetrain (engine and transmission) and a bill of sale for the rest of the stuff. It's important it's two separate receipts for reasons revealed soon. Also the Manufacturers Statement of Origin. This is what has your chassis code (which will become your VIN). Having this means you won't have to go to the sheriff's office for a VIN verification. 2) do your ASE safety inspection. Pay attention here as there are two forms. You want to fill out VTR-852 https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-852.pdf You do NOT want VTR-64 https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-64.pdf The reason is because if you title as a Custom Vehicle that is a replica (1957 Lotus), then you're only subject to the inspections for that year...in our case, even though we have OBD2s, they aren't compatible with emissions testing. So we want to be able to never have to do any inspection. A regular assembled vehicle will be subject to the year it was assembled. The key difference here is why I got two bill of sales, so that it doesn't constitute a single kit. I technically bought the power train separate from the chassis. You want to be able to say it's not a single source. If you fill out the VTR-64 and take that to the DMV, they will ask you to get your emissions inspection done and bring that paperwork. 3) fill our your title and registration application according to the same make and model as you stated on the previous form https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/130-U.pdf 4) fill out VTR-61 making sure to show you bought the parts separately https://www.txdmv.gov/sites/default/files/form_files/VTR-61.pdf 5) go to the county tax assessors office to get a One Trip permit. This is the only permit that doesn't require a VIN. This will let you drive to the ASE inspection and Catscale weight certification. 6) get your ASE inspection done (take form VTR-852 for them to fill out). Make sure they also print our the inspectors ASE current certifications. You'll want to call around to find a shop that can do this service. 7) get your weight certification at a Catscale station. Note that after this you don't need to take the Caterham to the DMV nor the tax assessors office. They never need to see the car in person. 8) Take and print pictures from all sides of the vehicle, as well as dash and VIN in the engine bay. Also needed is a photo of the car you're supposedly replicating. 9) take ALL of the above to the DMV and hope you get a good agent that will accept everything and give you a letter to allow you to title. 10) take that letter and ALL the previous docs back to the tax assessors office and get your title and registration. https://comptroller.texas.gov/taxes/publications/96-254/home-shop-made.php#:~:text=Motor vehicle tax is due from the person who custom,to build the motor vehicle

Tried bleeding more to no effect. Full puddle... Brake fluid reservoir fully drained above the clutch line.

The driveshaft/propshaft that connects the transmission to the diff... Do I need to unbolt it from the diff to pull it out of the transmission? I imagine if I just try to lift/angle the transmission immediately, that'll do some damage to the splines? I suppose that begs teh question.... will I need to remove the diff to move the propshaft?

Possible to just pull the engine out without the transmission,or will it have to come out together? I've an S3 chassis.

I was bleeding the clutch today, and JUST as I was getting a stiffer pedal, something seems to have popped. All of a sudden... the pedal went loose again, as if there was no fluid... and the fluid started draining back into the bleed screw... Then, brake fluid started dripping out the bottom of my bellhousing. I checked around the bleed screw and stuck a Q-tip into the bellhousing and swabbed all around... no fluid there. It seems like something further down must be leaking. I was on the phone with my dealer and it seems the conclusion is that I'd have to pull the engine (and probably the transmission out) in order to really diagnose what happened. I'm kind of desperate for any second opinions or other ideas I could try before I start dis-assembling this thing.

So to be clear, I think the recommendation to title as a Custom Vehicle is so we can title as a 1957 Replica, and thus skip all required state inspection, including emissions. When you titled as a 1991, what year was it? It may have been the case that your car was already more than 25 years old, which allows you to skip emissions. My car won't be more than 25 years old if it's titled as a 2024 Caterham. I don't think it's possible for me to do emissions, hence the thread.

Do you have issues with emissions testing? It doesn't seem like our cars can do the OBD2 testing. Also whereabouts are you? We should meet up sometime, along with @IamScotticus too! I'm in Spring

Off the stilts! All done!