slowdude

Paging @Outbound, I think he's the most qualified around to give advice. Check out his post a few threads down about his road trip from the port. Devolved into a good LED discussion.

Absolutely. Was deep into the W650 at the time. Couldn't justify it based on a lack of an IMU + I'd need to do a new seat ($400) and new suspension (+$2,500). The upgradeitis is real on bikes. I don't want to do the math on my GSA. 😬

As a rider of 15+ years, please get a bike with ABS. I don't care if it's a honda, kawi, ktm etc. If you have a family and are a new rider, airbag jacket + ABS are absolute bare minimum. If you thought you were invisible in a 7, the bike is 2x worse. Ride safe, train consistently, and realize that skimping on a bike or gear will have payoffs later. Japanese bikes are excellent reliability, but you'll need another 4k to make it a good bike. </rant>

Rover k series here. The last photo Scotticus linked is correct. Here it is without mark up. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/expansion-tank-cap-rover-200-400-600-25-45-zr-zs-premium-quality-oem-available I just went through my pile. I have an extra one. It's used but works. Holler if you need it.

Rover k series here. The last photo Scotticus linked is correct. Here it is without mark up. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/expansion-tank-cap-rover-200-400-600-25-45-zr-zs-premium-quality-oem-available

I think we have another thread to show off your cars. I used to ride much more, track days etc but got bit by the slower offroad, adventure bug.

I hear you, I had the same when I was racing more frequently. A ford duratec/mazda MZR may be the way to go then. If that's the case, you're better off selling and finding a car with that engine. I have a fairly stupid rover engine. When it works it's fantastic, but it's definitely got some character. You slowly just accumulate spares to take to the track. Thankfully these cars are very simple to work on.

My only thought would be, since it isn't a normal engine combo, that something more affordable would be wise. GBS looks pretty affordable since you're going to have to cut the car up. You'll have to run your own wiring harness/ ECU which would lower the value on a more established kit car. I think the GBS kits start around 7k or so. Gets you the bodywork etc. Since you have to run a new ecu and harness anyways, you're not paying for extra like you would on a caterham etc. Birkin/westfield might also offer a kit but they're more expensive. https://www.greatbritishsportscars.com/custom-kit-1

Woooo! Small effort and big wins are the best!

Track day was eventful. Heater hose popped off and spewed everywhere. Thought it was on. Thankfully the car didnt overheat etc. As always @NSXguy is a saint and helped with this and also a clutch adjustment. Car was running great on the track for each session and engine pulled very, very hard. Riot in the high revs. Took the car to the office the week after; still getting the wierd misfire after 20 minutes or so of driving. I'm seeing im losing coolant (overflow tank being low etc). Oil is clear, coolant tank is clear, no smoke or smell of burning. So went down the rabbit hole of coolant leaks and issues via the MG rover forums here: LINKY Since I touched the intake manifold when doing the clutch, It looks like I may have not put enough sealant around the intake by cylinder 1. I pulled the plugs and checked cylinder 1 vs cylinder 3. I can see some faint red residuent (red coolant?) by cylinder 1. Cylinder 3 has normal carbon build up. I'll need to revisit the intake manifold gasket and will most likely need a second set of hands to help out as I screwed it up before. Will try and get a leakdown in sometime in the next few weeks just to double check but given performance on the track etc, it looks like its an inlet manifold leak. I know I didnt put enough liquid gasket around the inlet manifold, looking back I should have put some more in. Cylinder 1 looks like it is missing a chunk but its just the photo quality being bad. New plugs and AFR gauge should fix fueling etc. Des has also been on me to get the AFR set up for closed loop fueling; I went nuts and got an AEM programmable gauge, Will use it for water temp, AFR, etc. That required an OBD2 adapter for the ECU, which required additional power, so I went ahead and got creative. @CBuff is an electrical nerd, so bouncing ideas off of him led to getting a separate fuse box with built in relays. I then went one step further and got some apiele switches for fairly cheap, then a sheet of thin aluminum off amazon for $8. I went and widened the horn hole and put a grommet in to prevent chafing (heh). Snaked some wires to test, as I need to re-arrange for the horn etc. plan is to mount the switches on the bulkhead above the E brake and see how it works out. Hoping to get wiring done up this weekend. For anyone who is looking to wire an EU1/2 K Series harness to a wideband, I went through and did the following research based off of Andrew Revill's EU2 loom + the wideband manufacturer to get an idea of how to do my deutsch connectors. Posting the below as I couldnt really find this on the blatchat or various forums, so I hope its helpful. wideband car color purpose pin color purpose red 12v power with fuse to ignition 1 slate positive VE white heater ground 2 light green slate negative VE green signal into ECU pin 10 3 black ground brown simulated narrow band 4 brown blue MFRU relay to pin 10 black sensor ground (ecu pin 29) in theory wiring from wideband to car wideband car red power 12v ignition switch white black green brown blue brown slate black light green slate

This. Spend the 3k to get the motor built right and enjoy. While they're building the engine, go through brakes, bearings and bushings.

Love the garage sign. Thank you @DatsunRBZ for the key chain!

The series you refer to are based on product development stage gate processes. For example, E90. This isn't brought by the product teams, or even the engineering teams. Within the series, there are technical and aesthetic updates, designed to prolong the project for the period of time as designed by the strategy etc. Car community latched on to this to determine model generations due to a lack of differences in model naming. Look at the 911 for example. There has been one 911 since the 60s, so telling a developmental status apart came from the community getting ahold of internal project codes and running with it. They're usually initiatives determined by strategy / R&D. Since caterham is a very small company, they most likely do not have the same product stagegate process as they are not developing new products. MB/Honda/etc are all in the business of conquering new markets and market segments, requiring the need for product stagegate processes etc. I'd venture to say other low volume car manufacturers doing the same thing time and time again (Morgan, Ariel etc), are similar. Just an apples to oranges comparison etc.

Imperial to metric chassis S3 seems to be a big enough generation development. It looks like de dion would have been 3 or 4 distinct generations based on the de dion tube. I think (but not really sure) Like late 80s to 93: narrow de dion imperial chassis 93 to like 02? Normal width de dion imperial chassis 96 to like 02? Normal width reinforced de dion imperial chassis (maybe a model spec, not necessarily an engineering / chassis change) 02 onwards: Normal width de dion metric chassis. Trying to figure out wtf my 95 de dion chassis belonged to was fun. I'm still not sure.

Since you have a separate block, why not just build the engine? Part of the 7 world is craftiness with sourcing. I am constantly buying stuff overseas and having it shipped over. You should try to think past the "I'll swing down to the O reillys" mentality. You can't equate this car to driving a modern vehicle. It isn't the same. It's like owning a classic. Any of those mods (miata, bike engine) will require adjustments to your harness, cooling, transmission etc. This will take you further away from your goal of getting it running. Trans is most likely a T9 ford if 5 speed.