theDreamer

DAMN! You are correct, I missed that. We'll have to see what the insurance company says as it'll probably come down to cost.

Thanks for the offer but the rim looks untouched. It will have to be spin balanced once it gets a new tire and we’ll see if there are any problems then.

Looking for an original "Imperial" drivers left front clam shell fender. I'd rather not have them patch the old one.The alloy skin can be brought back to as new. Suspension bits and the rack are a worry but we'll see once the shop as had a chance to really look at it. Still waiting for the insurance appraiser to see the car. No mods, the car is staying as original as I can make it.

“Excrement Doth Occur!” We didn’t make it to the Stirling Car Show. Not four minutes from our home we were hit by a neighbour who cut the corner while making a left hand turn. He admitted it was his fault, not paying attention and turning directly into us in our lane. I saw the truck coming so stopped just back from the stop sign thinking he’s seen me and will change course. But no, with the wife and I both yelling and me trying to get into reverse and honk the horn at the same time it was over before we knew it. The car is inside at the towing yard awaiting instructions from Hagerty. Hopefully things will move quickly but I'm not holding my breath. If I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck at all. Left front suspension is mucked up (tie rod bent back and everything is skewed) fender is toast and the body panel from front to the exhaust cutout is rippled with paint missing. I suspect more damage will be found like the suspension mounting points will be bent/broken.

WOW! That is a find for sure. Looks great with the clam shell fenders and the 16” wheels but then I biased. I see you’ve changed the wheels and tires already, good call. They look the part and most say the smaller diameter rim is a better choice. You just need to get a matching one for the spare. As one who is searching the history of my own seven I wish you good luck in learning more about yours.

Sorry, I’ve been out of racing over 20 years now plus I’m in Ontario. I’d suggest you talk to people in the know like Time Attack clubs or other track day groups in your area. They will have the inside scoop on where to buy products and get services done specific to track use.

“Ken used some kind of goop on the bead which may be necessary for track use.” Say whaa??? As you now know: Always use wheels and tires that YOU KNOW are suitable for purpose. Always use trusted technicians who KNOW THEIR JOB! Back in my day, if I wasn’t doing the work myself I almost always was looking over the shoulder of the guy who was. He might not have liked me hovering but out on the track it was my investment and my well-being at stake not his.

So many nice cars it is hard to pick just one. I bet most will go over market. P.S. Very disappointed that there are no photos of the engines and drive trains (underside) for the majority of the cars. Also, cars that are stated as running when stored were not brought up to at least start and idle condition.

Don't you just hate when this happens! I know it has happen to me and I'll be danged if I know what I did wrong, if anything.

Mmmmm... Mandalorian you quote, Words wise these are!

Just listed on Bat at "No Reserve"! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-caterham-superlite-4/

Heater in a Seven? In Ontario I find it is a "Must Have!" as it was for all sports cars. As to driving in bad weather well, my father rode motorcycles (with a side car and chains) through winters when he didn’t have a car. I have too but without the side car in the snow and it was only for fun. I did have to ride my little dual sport Kawi to and from work in the cold, damp and some flurries. It was the very late fall early winter the first time. Then again in the very late winter early spring when we had rear stub axles break on our Europa. You see I drove my Europa year round for a several years. Both my older brothers drove their Sprites and Midgets year round as they and my father did with their Corvairs. Which like my VW bug all are heated via ducts around the cylinders. I used the heater in my Seven on the drive home from picking it up. I couldn’t use the hood because the car came with no hood sticks. It was a bright and sunny 6c. My vintage Caterham jacket worked great. I did keep my left hand in my pocket only grabbing the wheel with it when needed like reaching down to put my right hand in front of heater vents. I’m bound and determined to put double the miles on our seven this year so I expect the heater will get more use again this year. With the roof up and doors on it actually does not a bad job of keeping the cockpit cozy and dry. I’m sooo glad we had a heater when driving in the pouring rain because it does take the edge off the dampness.

If you want an OEM with the electric filaments contact one of the US dealers. I’m sure if they do not have one in stock that they could get one. Might have to wait until they have a shipment coming in and of course it will cost.

@Reiver my car is all original as ordered form the factory. The custom two-tone grey “S” leather interior was 2064.29. The special leather boot cover was 150.00. The roll over bar’s custom padded leather cover was 85.00 and the spare tire cover was 75.00. This is taken from the 1993 Caterham invoice. I can’t see where it specifies the currency so these values may be in Pounds Sterling. I shudder to think how much a good leather man would charge to replicate this interior at today’s prices. Good luck with the half hood. Looking forward to seeing it on your car.

Read my report about losing and then fixing the clutch cable connection to the clutch arm on our way to a car show. https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/15051-first-breakdown-going-to-a-british-car-show/

Our car has a leather covered padded roll bar as can be seen in the photos. The standard hood clears the padding with no issues. The half hoods use the roll bar not a hood stick so as stated above it should work. You may have to do some tweaking but as long as you get the correct size for your roll bar it should work. You want to measure from the front of the windscreen to rear of the roll bar. The distance from rear seam to inside front lip of the half hood should be the same + or - a 1/4" or so. Several of us with the older vertical style roll bars have had problems because the hoods shipped have been too sort being made for the newer, angled forward roll bar. (About 4 inches different give or take.)

@JohnCh, Your concern over the style of 7 used seems odd to me. Looking at the original 7-7-7 event logo I’d say that ship has sailed. The 7 with the dragon tail clearly is based on that used by Caterham. Hell, how many none Caterham owners have placed a similar styled 7 in the nose of their none Caterham cars? I’ve been involved with companies and clubs during logo creation or changeover. There are some basic dos and don’ts. Simple and clean where less is more is the best approach. As you state, think about how hard it would be for stitching or iron on transfers for T’s and caps. As far as colours go you don’t need to use the red white and blue theme as that is made clear by clubs name. The 20th anniversary is called China. The gem stone is Emerald and the colours are green and/or yellow depending on which site you read. (Hmmm, isn’t that interesting…) I’m no graphic wiz so I’ve not done a visual yet. My idea is similar to many shown however; where mine differs is having the last part of the “A” of the USA and the little “s” flow slightly over the larger 7. I’d stay away from the car image. Other clubs, most notably the UK’s Caterham and Lotus 7 Club and the Canadian Automobile Sport Clubs to name two have used it for decades. It’ll be hard to match those. However, if you really what the 7 car outline then go with the one that has the least amount of detail. I’d also raise it up into the USA more. You might think about using the “flip image colour” trick I used on my Moto Star helmet back in the 70’s. I attached images showing how used the divide between two colours to highlight my name. The rear image of the helmet is included because I know you guys would ask to see it.

Nah mate, it's a no-name knock off. The proper NOS ones on new leather that MV8 linked to are GBP 45.00 before shipping. I got all four of these shipped to my door for less. Now if someone would like to gift me a proper vintage key ring with fob I'd not turn it down. However, I think what I received is FOBulous, simply FOBulous!

Some images like the windscreen were added after the fact.

So, I bit the bullet and I ordered key rings off of eBay UK. The one I wanted was GPB15.00 but there was only one left. (see image) I quickly found another that looked smaller and the leather looked more like vinyl in the photo. Funny, the photos had the same background image. I think it was only GBP 5.99 so I ordered one of those as well. I now had two slightly different Caterham 7 key rings on order. Over the following weeks I received two identical messages from the same person saying that they’d been away and would get right on my order. Almost two weeks passed before the first package arrived. Based on the photo it was the “last One”. It looked close to the photo in the ad. The difference being the chrome is raised above the colours and I thought it would be all smooth like the nose badge. A couple of days later I had a notice from eBay UK to rate my experience. The odd thing was it was for the other key ring order. So I waited to reply. Over a week goes by and I finally received the second package. To my great surprise not only are there three key rings but they are exactly the same as the first one. Again eBay UK asked for my feedback so I wrote my little story. I explained my bewilderment at ordering the last one of one type and another one that looked different from another ad. Then, getting the exact same message from the same person that they were late in getting my order out. Now these Feed Back forms are to two different people but it seems that the items are all coming from the same shop. I got a reply from some guy that he’d look into it but didn’t understand how I ended up with three key rings. I wrote him back that I actually received four and not to send anymore. So I have two to use and two set aside. Well, you just never know when you might need a Caterham Key Fob, eh!

Early one morning just after a huge snow fall we had to pick up some meds from the pharmacy. Only the main roads had been plowed and the parking lot had only seen a couple of cars. I knew where the parking spots where so when I pulled in I did a wide turn and then planted my foot hard on the accelerator to get the wife’s Crosstrek into a nice controlled, sweeping drift. The vehicle came to rest perfectly situated in the first spot in the row. No sooner had the vehicle come to a stop and WHACK! The wife hauled off and hit me, hard, in the shoulder and started yelling at me. What did I do wrong?

Fejar 7 in Montreal Quebec. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1588416435882505/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa2e76c97-5fdc-4021-8eff-a32645e9e329&__tn__=!%3AD

I posted a breakdown of the VIN which shows it to be an SV chassis from 2018 with a 5 speed box. What I don't understand is it has full doors and a bag marked Hood SV & CRS Zip-Rear Win but no photos of a hood or windscreen.

While I understand the sellers zeal to sell and how focused se7en cars can be I think he will have upset many, if not all, Elise owners with this one line; “One short drive with one of these will make the Elise feel like an S-Class afterward…”

If it’s a daylong event I’ll pull it off for about an hour midmorning and again about hour midafternoon. Car looks much better with it on to the general public. The gear heads want to see the power plant so on occasion it will come off to expose the hamster wheel. If it’s a judged event I follow the rules. Usually that means leaving it on until asked to remove it. If it’s for a short time the wife holds it. For longer periods I lean it up against the spare tyre then place a folding chair behind it. (see image Bonnet Off) As other’s have said, let the little ones have fun and feel they are part taking in the show. (see image Next Gen Driver) As to Timothy Keith-Lucas’ comment re: “…campaign to get all entered cars to have explanatory plaques.” You’ll notice in my show photos there is a plastic covered sign under the wiper blade which does just what Timothy is promoting. Furthermore, you’ll see in some images the purple binder that is always with the car and on display. I’ve mentioned it other threads. It has copies of all the documents and even colour pages from the article that the UK Caterham and Lotus 7 club published in the May 2024 issue of Lowflying called “A Glass and a Half. As a side note, I grew up with antique and classic cars. No matter how rough it looked, you never went near a car afraid a button or zipper might scratch. Most of the cars had signs like “I’ve been tubbed, scrubbed and rubbed so please don’t touch me.” Or, “Do not lean on this car unless you are completely Nude!” My father on the other hand was more than happy to let anyone and everyone sit not just in the car but climb up into the rumble seat of his 1934 LaSalle. Also, the wife has been known to dress up the car, (and ourselves) to celebrate special events like our 50th wedding anniversary.