pethier

Interesting. I have a car that was certainly licenced in Massachusetts as a 1963 Lotus. Still has a Massachusetts inspection sticker on the windscreen. The word Lotus appears on this sticker. It's just possible that the car is a Birkin, possibly made in 2003.

ANALYSIS, speedwagen, ANALYSIS. Looks like your spellchecker has a dirty mind.

Yeah. Make him prove it. When I bought my late wife a TR4 in San Antonio, I was out on the highway with the seller. I expressed that I was concerned about the mechanical scraping sound. "That's not a mechanical noise. It's an aerodynamic noise." He reached his two hands over the windshield and started moving them around. The noise changed. I put my hands up there also and here we were zipping up the highway looking like two guys trying to play a theremin. The TR4 does not use all snaps ("poppers") to secure the roadster top when it is on. There is a snap on each corner. The section between these two snaps has a down-facing groove meant to capture a strip of metal sewn inside the front of the top. Tension set by straps on the top frame keep the top fastened to the windshield. Turns out this groove, when not at work locating a top, has musical ambitions at speed. The TR4A discontinued the roadster top in favor of a convertible top with a more-conventional method of connection to the windshield. They continued with this convertible top all the way through the TR6.

Vintage Triumph Register is a national organization. Texas Triumph Register is a chapter of VTR. My chapter is Minnesota Triumphs Sports Car Club.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marking_blue

Ask for Prussian Blue. Machinists also call it "layout dye".

Just asking for a bit of education: Are we talking about using this on a deDion car>\? If one were to instal this kit, you leave all the existing stuff in place?

I suggest you ask around the Texas Triumph Register. Their PO Box is in Houston, so they must have plenty of members thereabouts. I know that my Chapter of the VTR has tons of members with parts lying about and expect that Triumph-car folks in Texas are not that different in that regard. https://www.facebook.com/groups/154491104579697/ https://texastriumphregister.org/ https://texastriumphregister.org/wp-content/uploads/Resource_Guide/TTR Resource Guide - Dec 2025.pdf

Just to educate my often-uninformed self: Does the CSR 260 use the constantly-circulating method of fuel delivery? If so, then if this is indeed a fuel pressure regulator, this device is located on the return line to the fuel tank? On my Birkinized Caterham, the fuel pressure regulator hangs directly on the outflow end of the fuel rail of the Hayabusa injection. On my actual Birkin, the fuel pressure regulator is directly aft of the cylinder head. In all of these cases I expect the result is schematically the same. The advantage I see to the location back by the tank is that the device would not be subjected to the higher temperatures present close to the engine. The possible disadvantage would be inaccessibility for adjustment. This would be inline with Cosworth's apparent ethic of "don't mess with our setup".

Not planning on going for more than 260 hp in the near future.

"Everybody's got a cousin in Miami." - Jimmy Buffet

Fuel pump and gauge sender bulkhead. I can't believe how tiny these wires are.

What is this device just forward of gas tank?

With some difficulty, the honeycomb did come out of the car. For one thing, the SLR cage does not have the flanges that the FIA rollbar has. To made reinstallation easier, I put the table saw and sled to work. A slight trim to the front corners of the honeycomb should do it. The sharper corner got a bit of rounding from the oscillating drum sander.

Bolts that held the clamps that held the fire system.

The honeycomb in the CSR was held in directly only by two screws. Three more screws went through the metal piece which held down the leading edge. These screws did not go through the honeycomb. The trailing edge of the honeycomb had no screws in it all all.

Not only that. The filler port on the tank is surrounded by the honeycomb, so every time you take out the honeycomb you need to disassemble the filler assembly. Here is my 1991 honeycomb hanging on the wall because I can't reinstall it due to the workaround for the pickup problem in the tank.

while the Cayman gets some attention elsewhere.

CSR 50th anniversary edition. 1957-2007

OOPS. Dunno why I thought it was 2026.

Yeah, it was a pain. Good news, your prediction of little difficulty taking the honeycomb out of the CSR was right on the button. Structural? Hell, it was barely attached! Pix to follow: I have a football match to watch. USA! USA!

On my 1991 S3 with an FIA roll bar the honeycomb boot floor was impossible to get out. The roll bar flanges blocked it. it was a real job getting the roll bar off of the car. I cleaned the cup in the frame and flooded it with anti-seize in case I ever need to remove the roll bar again With one inch trimmed off each end of the honeycomb, it just clears, so the roll bar can stay on.

I think it is mostly to hold up whatever cargo you put in the boot. I don't think that the cuts that either I or John did compromise the structure of the car. My 1979 Caterham had only very-thin plywood. I added my own alum sheet to that car just to satisfy some autocross rule about metal between tank and driver.I made my own alum housing over the fill hose, since that car had none.

The honeycomb was simple to cut with a table saw using a sled. Just feed it slowly and use a carbide blade. Have fun with the shop vac getting all those tiny alum chips.

On my 1991 1700, I cut one inch off each end of the honeycomb. The light alum sheet that sits atop the honeycomb easily cantilevers and supports carpet and contents. i will look at your stuff and see what you did.