TheDingo8MyBaby

That's actually the Microcar K-3. I believe only about 100 were made and it's powered by a 50cc motor in the back. http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.takerusoftware.no-ip.com%2Fmicrocar%2Fk-3%2Fk-3.htm&lp=ja_en&btnTrUrl=Translate or http://www.takerusoftware.no-ip.com/microcar/k-3/k-3.htm if you can read japanese.

http://www.valvoline.com/racing/index.asp http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf It's mostly meant for older cars with flat tappets and pushrods. It's not really a california thing as they say racing only since it tends to kill your catalytic converter.

Have you checked your valve clearances? Also, since the crossflow has flat tappets, I'd reccomend running an oil with a more aggressive ZDP level. I run valvoline racing not street legal.

I know some of you may have seen this before, but Jack McCornack will be be on a television show called "brink" on the science channel this Friday at 10pm (at least in california) with his vegetable oil powered 7. If you're unfamiliar - http://blog.wired.com/cars/2008/10/veggie-oil-lotu.html

They're at the point of that A shape piece underneath your diff. I think this is most likely your cause. They're really easy to change. Jack up car, unbolt and pull out old bushings, place in new ones and do your final torquing with the wheels on the ground.

Check your A-frame bushings. They tend to wear out-especially if the diff is leaking.

The 5 speed T9 box uses 23 splines, I believe the older 4 speeds were 20. You can buy from caterham - I believe they sell a nice AP clutch. Have you thought about having your current flywheel lightened? Since you're driving the car on the street, I imagine you'll still want to keep some weight in it, so this might be a good option for you.

I was referring to the towstrap in the first picture. Those wheels do look remarkably similar to SSR's... I haven't seen BBS with that particular shape. here's a shot of the SSR mesh. http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/pics/rims/ssr%20formula%20mesh.jpg

That towstrap looks a bit dangerous, but beautiful rotus you have there. Those wheels appear to be SSR formula Mesh...

Anyone know anything about that adapter for the t50 bellhousing?

Galvanic corrosion is caused two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte, (e.g. aluminum bodies our our steel frame 7's). Carbon fiber wouldn't be a part of galvanic corrosion. There are several types of corrosion and it's amost impossible to speculate what it may be.

Sorry it's taken so long for me to get back. Have you wired up the speed sensor? I know the blacktops have it, but I cannot remember if Silvertops do or not. These are the sensors have an impact of air/fuel: -AFM -o2 -coolant temp -tps I would try replacing the AFM. You should be be able to use a 5-sfe AFM. O2 and tps can simply be disconnected for testing purposes and neither of them would cause "limp mode" when disconnected. The coolant temp sensor, if sending the wrong voltage, could have an impact on the air/fuel mixture. If the coolant temp sensor were disconnected entirely, the car wouldn't even start. I would take a look at that coolant sensor, and try disconnecting the tps as well as the o2. I would also try looking at the TPS pins. I had one come loose one time. Have you checked all your fuses? Short of that, I would also look into replacing the ECU.

That exhaust looks pretty intense on the silver and red 7... I wonder how loud it would be if the driver sat on the left side.

What happens when you Jump te1 and e1? What codes is it throwing?

Thanks... I set the first on the ground because I didn't have a tripod for the low light and my point and shoot is not great. The second was taken with a better point and shoot...I think it came out pretty good considering. I'm no morgan segal though. Morgan, I'd love to make it out sometime- just let me know when you guys are going. I'll do my best to keep up with my crossflow and touring tires.

Mine are 13x6 as well. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/caterhambeach.jpg You can see they're pretty wide for the width of the rims, but 205 isn't THAT bad for a 6" wheel. My preference would be staggered 14" (running 185/60/14) or 15" (running 195/50/15) wheels to fill up the rear fenders a bit better, but it seems the car is a little prone to understeer already.

While I certainly don't oppose the look of carbon fiber on the proper 7, I think I'd like to keep it looking relatively, well...classic. If I had a later, more agressive car, I would think carbon on aluminum would be very nice. On my live axle, X-flow I worry it would look like I were trying to put lipstick on a pig.

Hello Everyone, Thanks for the kind comments. The wheels are 13". The tires are Sumitomo HTR200 205/60/13. I'm looking to purchase some A048's in the same size soon though... I'm actually debating if I should paint the nice bodywork and use this set for autocross/track. I was having trouble before deciding on the gunmetal vs. British racing green with yellow lipstick. I may vinyl the british racing green/yellow on this abused set and paint the gunmetal on the other set...

Hello to all, Since I recently introducted you all to my car in the member rides section, I figured I'd introduce myself here. I'm a 25 year old Mechanical Engineer. I graduated 2 years ago and I work in R&D for respiratory products (ventilators, respirators, CPAP machines, nebulizers...etc). The product I'm currently working on is due out in about a year and will hopefully help some of your loved ones with asthma, COPD, chronic bronchitis, emphysema or even if they are post-surgery. I grew up in northern california and fell in love with cars in the passenger seat of a my dad's lotus elan. It was attending lotus club meets and the monterey historics that led me to fall in love with the 7. In addition to my 7, I own a 1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/SQD_0053.jpg The car has full coilover suspension, a full chromoly cage, TRD Group-A gearbox, 4.7 rear end with a 2-way limited slip differential. It has a 20V silvertop 4ag (which I believe some of you are very familar with). I primarily raced this car, but also did a bit of drifting just for fun. I also have a 2000 Tundra v8 to tow the corolla since it's not street legal. -Geoff

Hello, my name is Geoff. I picked my dream car about a month ago and was lucky to get a 2 year old SB100 registration through. I was just recently able to get it running right and just barely got it washed for the first time today. It's a '99 live-axle, X-flow super sprint. The fiberglass is isn't in great shape, but it came with all new red bodywork. I plan on fixing this bodywork and painting it a gunmetal that I expect will contrast nicely with the aluminum. Other than that, my only other plans are to change out the cracking coolant hoses and add some water wetter (it'll get up to about 100degC if stationary), change the oil to 20-W50 valvoline not-street-legal due to the flat tappet valves, buy some decent R-compound rubber for it and do A LOT of driving. Anyway, I took it for a drive up in the Orange Hills and found a nice place to snap a couple with my point and shoot. I apologize for the blurryness but they came out alright for not having a tripod. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/SANY0379.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/SANY0376.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/SANY0380.jpg I sure wish I had a SLR for this one...the way the california sunset was reflecting off the aluminum was pretty neat. This shot doesn't even begin to capture it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/SANY0385.jpg Anyway, I look forward to getting better acquainted with all of you and happy motoring.

Bruce- I was laying in bed last night thinking that it was perhaps a neutral sensor. Thanks for the picture- that helps. I passed the brake and light inspection. I'm taking it to the CA DMV on thursday to pick up the title (if everything else goes right). Wish me luck!

The speedometer drive output is lower on my t9. Still, there are 2 images there without this port-and I can hardly see ford not fitting them with speedometer outputs. I have seen the threads about the filler on the t9 top cover. A useful mod indeed that I'll be doing when I have the chance.

Interesting. Looks like someone stuck the wrong sensor where I have the arrow. I noticed the placement of the sensor in the second picture and sure enough it fit. Anyone know what the port I have the arrow pointing to is? I was just going to plug it. Is it a vent or something?

I notice that some t9's seem to have provisions for the reverse switch and some don't. http://www.zetecinside.com/xr2/pictures/type9.jpg and http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/Bild063.jpg This is similar to the t9 I have. Thoughts? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/t9.jpg

Hello all, I'm the new owner of a 99 Caterham Classic (crossflow with T9 5 speed) I have a question for you guys regarding your reverse light switches. I have to replace mine for a brake & light inspection, but I cant seem to find the right part. The part I pulled out has a 16 x 1.5 thread. I bought an xr4ti switch from a local auto parts store, but the threads were 14 x 1.5. So I called up chris from Sevens and Elans out in MA and had him second day air me a switch claiming that, "if it's on a caterham, this is the switch." I received it today and again, it's 14x1.5 Does anyone know what reverse switch I have and/or where I can get it? Thanks -Geoff