Croc

I have been using the PC680 for many years in a number of Caterhams. Once they drain too far they cannot be rehabilitated. @coffee break has good advice. It is very common for our se7ens to have parasitic loss on our electrical system and so a battery cutoff switch is a good idea to prevent flattening the battery unless you leave it on battery tender constantly.

Gorgeous view. Brings back good memories of my years living in Japan. Thank you for sharing.

I like BMW straight 6s! Do you have a link to the article for us?

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Welcome to USA7s! Congratulations on your first post and on recently acquiring your Caterham. The downloads section of this site has a lot of technical materials available. The build manual at the following link has a wiring diagram for both engine harness (Figure 213) and main harness (Figure 214) at pages 216 and 217: If it is not a fuse then the majority of the time it is a loose earth lead. There are two earths. Your engine is good so I would assume it is fine. Your main earth is connected either on bulkhead in engine bay or a chassis rail nearby. However, you have some unusual symptoms in that dash and tail lights are failing. If the tail lights are off, are the indicators and license plate light also not working? Rear fog light? Brake lights? If all the lights on the rear are not working then they all share a common earth - that would be the first thing to check. The instruments and rear brake/night lights do share adjoining fuses - maybe check both are secure. Fuse box layout for a Duratec can be see at page 46 here: This is just a starting point for checking. As you feedback any additional observations, we can better diagnose.

Congratulations on your new Caterham! Don't be discouraged -this is where you start to personalize it to your desired specification and feel. An 8% steering rack was standard road fitment for many cars. The 22% steering rack was more for the race cars. The turns lock to lock are 1.9 and 1.7 respectively. There was a 5% (I think that was the %) rack fitted at one point but that was 2.5 turns lock to lock. You could look for that rack but its only half a turn different lock to lock. Not much difference in all 3 types. I don't think that is your primary problem although it could be a contributor. The steering wheel is tiny on a Caterham. Not sure what size you have but going from a 10 inch steering wheel to a 12 inch wheel makes a huge difference in lessening steering effort. That will not solve your directional issue though. Tires can make a big difference. ACB10s are notorious for tram-lining but the photo shows another brand - Yokohamas I think? What pressure are you running? Should be around 18psi (cold) to allow the sidewalls to flex properly given the tires were designed for a much bigger heavier car and they are mounted to a flyweight Caterham. If you were running one of the Avon tires you could lift the pressures to 22psi (front cold) and 20psi (rear cold) but that feels too high for the Yokohamas. Maybe try experimenting within that range of pressures to see if you get a better front feel. You don't say about any unusual tire wear evident on the tread but that would be a pointer to the next topic - suspension alignment. So then we get to front suspension alignment. The three settings to consider - toe in, camber and caster. All 3 could be contributing to what you are experiencing - a reluctance to change direction. Picking the assembly manual from the downloads section of this site and going to Section 14/page 6 [also page 124 of the PDF page reference it shows the initial alignment settings and how to do it. Use those settings to baseline what you have either by adjusting yourself or try a professional shop to set it up for you. Then drive again off those settings to see what it feels like. Its going to be a process of elimination to narrow down what is causing the issue but it should be one or a mix of the factors listed.

Birkin on Bringatrailer No Reserve: Supercharged Duratec-Powered Birkin S3 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending November 30 (Lot #60,521) | Bring a Trailer

Comments? Me? Bob and I have been chatting offline for a while so nothing to add that I have not said to him already. Every good man deserves a toy from Santa at Christmas!

@simon450 Have you thought about pasting Seb's picture to your Tillet seat and sitting on it? Seb is not a religious icon you know. Well not in a good sense.

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@bball7754 I think you are right. No body patch tells me it was never a Zetec as redoing the side skin on a painted clam shell car is prohibitively expensive exercise. The exhaust hole can be ordered with or without to accommodate end user choice. The notched wrong side rear wing was only phased out only a few years ago as I believe Caterham had a 10 year supply of excess notched wings like that - the rumor was they fat fingered an order once. The first or second Zetec Caterham is MichaelD's Caterham now owned by @CarlB That would be one to check to see if it is notched as I believe it was the first one done by Jon at Rocky Mountain Caterham in 1998. I was always told that SVs did not need the chassis notch, only the narrower S3 chassis. Edited to add: Just checked old photos and no Zetec SV I ever owned had a notch.

Hi Seb - Can we validate the plug tip look first? From your description you are in clearly lean territory. 12.5:1 compression ratio would infer 93 octane is too low. Thats not good since you are likely burning a hole in the top of your piston. My rough rule of thumb has been anything over 11.75:1 should be at 98 octane or higher as that gives plenty of safety margin. Do you have a lambda reading or some way of assessing air fuel mix measure? Particularly after upgrading octane to confirm you have no additional issue. Go straight to the pre-mixed 100 octane from a reputable supplier. You have an expensive engine and you should invest in the right fuel to protect it. I'd hate to see it end up like Simon's engine where a piston succeeded in escaping at high velocity recently.

It should be easier than that. Set the AIM Solo 2 software to read your Caterham as having a Noble ECU. Connect the AIM Solo via the J1962 (OBD2 style) plug. Then it will work as Noble also used the MBE9A4 ECU. Some of the CAN data channels are spurious but you can filter for that with some study. Then the data read out can be visualized along with the GPS data as follows: I set mine for track but you can set a one way route analogous to a hill climb or rally stage. I don't think the AIM software is smart enough to set triggers for pre-defined limits but I have not played around with it to that level of sophistication. If you experience kangarooing then note the time and go back to review the data based on that time stamp. For the kangarooing, keep in mind that for some Caterham models some of the problem was being caused by a weak throttle return spring.

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Helping Larry @The Fuselage out with images

Thanks Larry. I lived in Maine and used to travel to Burlington VT by backroads every second week in all seasons. So I know what February is like for driving. I will be in an SUV and was just planning to scout the route only. For the project, think Congletons. I have lots of projects going on currently - the vehicles listed below in my signature are not all pristine - will be one day! For getting to me, I will PM my mailing address. Then I will scan it and post it in the articles for driving ideas for @Lotusfan and others who are interested. A drink at a later stage when in VT is definitely a good option!

@reid.duffThe build and user manual can be downloaded here Build & User Guides - USA7s @RGTorque Good to hear from you Roman. Hope all is well and it is great to hear that you have your se7en back together again!

Welcome to USA7s! I like your style of driver's cars. Definitely theme of lightness and nimbleness.

Just had to highlight this for avoidance of anyones' doubt.

Could I impose on your to share your Vermont Targa Florio road loop please? I need to head up to Colchester, VT about 3 months from now for a car project - would like a distraction while coming back!

Hold on - are you saying I am a fox and going to eat all those chickens? I don't need to buy another Caterham so you are safe with your feathers! Will answer your question offline as a PM.

There used to be SV sized side impact bars - two components to it - a side impact bar then a separate rear wheel bar. The photo below illustrates Looking at the Caterham parts website shows only the RWIB bar available for 1 side only. Its CSR but should still fit an SV if confirmed with Caterham parts. They used to fit LHD and RHD - I saw one on a Caterham SV in CA once: Rear Wheel Protection Bar - LHS - CSR (caterhamparts.co.uk) However, this style was superseded around 2015-16 for an integrated side protection on the S3 chassis - they never did the same update for the SV/CSR as @Pokeypoints out. Keep in mind, both the old and the new form of side intrusion bar interfered with the doors opening and closing when in road touring mode. Also there would be a gap at the front of the doors so it will leak in rain - that could be annoying for you - something to consider. As @sf4018points out, Kitcat's cage is the best design i have seen for side impact as it bows out to create clearance for a driver. There was someone in the PA/DE area who made some custom cages for a few people. @yellowss7 Tom - can you please jog the memory on who you used? Maybe you take a custom approach cribbing from Kitcat's style of cage to develop an impact bar?

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What is it about Westfield Miatas' and the name "Dan"? Calling the other Dan with a Westfield Miata to this thread! @Dan3030