Croc

@slowdude The good news about being FP&A is that it is in huge demand in the NY area if you want to step outside the auto industry and I bet you could make the shift. Given the salary inflation resets going on presently this is a time to consider opportunities. I would be skeptical about your specific auto co. staying in the NYC suburbs for the long term anyway - its high cost and sooner or later leadership wakes up. They had a wobble once before.

Congratulations! Very well done! What HSR class are you running? Also, what is the Ginetta running as an engine? It took off quick in race 1.

calling @xcarguy

It is but someone has to pay it since that is the end price. You can hedge currency fluctuations but that is an insane concept on a car purchase too. Not fair on the dealer to wear all the FX risk since they do not make a massive profit margin that would cover that. I have often wondered if there better option but yet to see it.

There are other Avon manufacturing facilities - Serbia for example. The tires only stop production if not enough people buy them.

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I do like how this thread sometimes goes off topic... Yes I will admit to that but you missed the bit where I said "...provided I can have a drive of the T70 on track."

But on the plus side: 1) The dollar is very strong against the pound 2) Shipping costs are starting to head down as the supply chain crunch eases and excess cargo space is seeing shippers consolidate their voyages and lay off ships. Overall it should be a modest net saving.

Lovely color!

There is a big distinction between racing events or just a regular track day. That said, you will want to consider safety upgrades on your new Caterham once it arrives. There are a number of good track day operators in the North East to try. Likely next season given the timing of your car arriving.

Hi Charlie, Welcome to USA7s with your first post and congratulations on finding a sweet little Caterham. Having a Dave Andrews engine is a good thing so it should be sorted there. Lots to unpick in your email. I will first off say that a Caterham is better to drive on track than a Lemons car! I notice you are NJ/RI. Strong suggestion is do not try to title/register a Caterham in NJ. It is a pain of a state for sevens and anything imported internationally. They wanted my last (over 25yo) RHD car to be converted to LHD. While I have not checked RI requirements, that state (or any other state) has to be easier than NJ. In upgrading your car to SCCA standards, I am going to assume you are not wanting to fully conform the car to the specific Caterham run class (either F or E) as that involves more indepth changes like engine conversions as I cannot envisage SCCA accepting a Rover K series readily. So sticking with safety, here is an example of a top performing Caterham race car (along with its driver!) - use the photos to get an idea to compare to yours (as it is currently) on the level of changes needed. (9) Marketplace - 2001 Lotus Super 7 | Facebook So the high level changes will be: - cage - seat/harness - fuel system - cell/etc - electrical cut out - tires - up rate brake pads - suspension set up - plus driver safety kit The SCCA experts who should chime in here are @James A and @craig chima For roll cage, there is a guy in NJ/DE who has done a number of compliant cages for a few Caterhams locally. Calling @yellowss7 Tom - who did the cages for Jeff and you? One thing to note is that I am always uneasy when I see full cage sevens driven on the street as you should really wear a helmet in case you whack your head against a cage bar in an incident. Something to consider. @yellowss7 Tom is also your resident K series expert as he has a genuine Rover K series Superlight. So he can tell you how he goes about sourcing parts - mostly direct from the UK like many of us. There are 3 Caterham owners resident at NJMP - myself, Tom and Simon. A new buddy to play track tag with is always welcome! You also have a few owners up in CT area for Thompson @11Budlite @wemtd @Black Hole So a number of folk who would be more than happy to share their local track persepctives. Cheers mike

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Congratulations on your acquisition. I thought you got a good buy. Needs work but price was right. Looks fantastic. Its not unusual to have to fettle a seven to get it reliable. All of mine have seemed to require that - then years of no issue motoring. First thing, you have a neighbor with a Caterham - calling @kayentaskier to the chat. I think Jim calls on Josh at Rocky Mountain if he has major issues. You don't say if you will be doing this or need someone to do it for you. Jim can advise if there is someone local in St George. Nice town by the way - I leaked my way through there last year on my road trip. Given everything has to come out to get to the clutch (and you might as well replace any consumables in there at the same time) this is a bigger job that normal. You won't know what the parts order list is until it is all out. Ask yourself what your goal in for the car? Quiet backroads? Monster straight-line performance? As it is set up there is 300hp on narrow rear wheels with tire rubber that is better suited to a GT car. Not a particularly idea formula as 300hp on skinny wheels gives you all the traction of a cat in a wet bathtub. Not something you want carving a few canyon roads. But the look of the car is sensational - really well presented in the classic style. Following on from MPH above in the time honored "if it were my car" theme, I would play on the cars presentation and go for a classic look but upgrade the handling ability and dial the power back since you are backroad focused. Less is more. So back to naturally aspirated with Webers on the big valve twin cam. Drop off the turbo stuff and EFI. Re rate fuel pump and scale down the oil/water pump flows. Less aggressive clutch. Definitely LSD. I would think long and hard about different tires - a top quality performance rubber on the 13 inch wheels but try to preserve the existing snowflake wheels as they are the original for the 80s. Either way you want to stay on 13 inch wheels for the best handling/performance. Oh and drop some classic looking gauges in the dash instead of the wrong look autometer pro comp ones. Twin Cam may not require any work but clearly there are open questions on fueling, timing, flows, etc. Big thumbs up! More people should take this approach.

Sounds like an extreme kangaroo throttle which is common in Caterham CSRs but the heat connection (i.e. only does it when warm) makes it different. Sticky throttle mechanism in pedal box or at throttle bodies?

Older style in front of radiator Older style SV nose cone Thats too cold. You would not be burning off the moisture/particulates in the oil at that temp. Blanking is essential then. Ok you are measuring at the tank. Mine was tapped at the engine. It will be cooler by the time it gets to the engine. No don't do that. Every time I saw that tried I saw someone rebuilding an engine from oil supply interruption. Looks like you have either a 92 or 102F version. Given year I suspect 102F and the nose cone is keeping it lower. Yes agree. I have the modine on my CSR260 and it works great to get oil up to temp quickly and peg the oil and water temps in sync for road. However, on track in summer the oil temps can be fearsome causing me to come in if I reach red zone.

Well said. Anyone who puts sweat equity into a build should be respected. It may not to be some of our tastes but USA7s is a broad church intended to respect varying individual interpretations of the core Lotus 7 ethos.

There is a reasonable network of Holden owners in the USA - we have a loose connection with each other. I know a guy with a collection of Valiant Chargers and another with a bunch of XD/XE utes. It takes all types. Mine below. Bought long ago before the value run up. The SS (not A9X) is a replica livery although was raced long ago - needs bare metal restoration. Slowly getting into taking the Blue Meanie restoration seriously - the current value of it scared me into it. The Torana and Blue Meanie are road registered here.

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Hi Dave Shipping will be ugly via Fedex, UPS or DHL. One off the wall suggestion - there is a guy with a Holden Torana in California. I came across him by accident on a Holden forum and we corresponded as I was needing shipment assistance at the time for Holden parts on my Blue Meanie. I somehow have managed to lose his email as it was back in 2015. His name is Jeff here: Torana hatch in California... - Members Projects & Plans - GMH-Torana Nice guy in my dealings. He is an importer/exporter between Los Angeles and Melbourne and you may be able to get the wheels into one of his containers. Only catch is John's wheels are in NJ, about an hour south of NYC by car. cheers mike

I have a solution within the garage. I use these: Amazon.com : Victor Mini M753SN Ultrasonic Rodent Repeller with Nightlight, 3-Pack (Not available in HI, NM, PR),White : Patio, Lawn & Garden Other neighbors have been using them and none of us has seen evidence of a rodent since we started using them but plenty of evidence before we started. Going on 10 years now. I thought I was safe since the rodents only liked Porsches but once my neighbors with Porkers got the repellers then the rats found my garage and discovered the Mustang. No idea if it works but what about something like this? Amazon.com: Loraffe Under Hood Animal Repeller Car Rat Repeller Rodent Repellent Ultrasonic Mouse Deterrent for 12V Vehicle Automobile Get Rid of Mice in Car Engine with Ultrasound and LED Flashlights, 2 Pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden I have to admit I was skeptical about ultrasonic repellers but they seem to work for me and I am surrounded by critters.

I will say @BlakeJ is really quick in his new engine spec on track. Lap times were dropping fast this last NJMP event. Roller barrels make great sounds with the induction noise. He was causing mischief with some cars who before would run away from him.

I am going to provide some context with water temps to allow you to better compare to your situation. Its my UK 420R - 2018 so likely identical to yours in spec 2L Duratec, 5 spd Miata box, dry sump, oil cooler out the lower front of the radiator. SV so greater nose cone opening. Mostly track usage but some back road blats. Drawing from my recent trip so think Fall/Spring weather in the UK (say 65-70deg F days). Engine temps in Celsius since that is how my UK 420R is calibrated. Starting with water temps, my thermostat is 92degC. Caterham started off using a 82degC thermostat then migrated to 92degC or a 102degC thermostat. I run around 80-85 once engine up to temp. Fan hardly ever kicks in unless I get into traffic and then temp is up around 90degC. On track I am consistently around 90degC which is what I would expect with a 92degC thermostat. For oil temps, ideal range per Premier Power is an 80degC to 100degC. I reference Premier Power as my car is stored with TFL in the same building as Premier Power and I have been chatting with them on a few of my visits (upgrades - guilty ). On track I see 95-100degC, sometimes over. For road I am around 75degC to 80degC but it will kick higher if I get into traffic. Not ideal but not bad. The other thing is the oil temp is a spot measure for the system so my road oil temp is likely in the lower end of the 80degC to 100degC range within the dry tank for road usage. My temp measure is tapped off the engine and not off the dry sump tank which it ideally would be. I do see water and oil temps move in sync on track so they definitely peg to each other which is why I feel comfortable the higher water temps will underpin oil temps via block warming. Premier Power did tell me they generally recommend blanking off the oil cooler if using primarily for road. I can live with how I have it as the oil is still hot enough to work properly and I am mostly track focused on that car. The problem is the oil temps can get to 120degC without the cooler on track on a hot day - so you need it for track time. It is a compromise that I can live with. As I wrote this, an idea occurred to me - what water thermostat are you running? Maybe upgrade to the 102degF one and lift the oil temps just enough at the same time?

Sure. I have a race car with double the weight of a Caterham running 2 pots on the front and it survives. People over brake momentum cars anyway. After all these years of track miles I have never had brake fade on a Caterham (or the original Lotus 7 S2). People are out there running the standard fronts on track in fun events. If you get fade then I bet I could find a driver induced reason. I can think of a track buddy with a 420R who got 6 track use years out of his brake pads (4pot vented discs). Then there is me with the CSR (4 pot vented discs) with 12 years track use on the pads and another 10 years on the fronts left. Lap times are comparable if you equalize for power. But then I drive as I learned to on V8 supercars which only had brakes for the first 3 laps then went out to lunch with fade. The 4 pots vented discs are really nice and do improve stopping power but you really only notice it if you are really pushing on hard on track. If you wwre going for more power say a R500 or 620R then the higher speeds would recommend improved stopping performance as the heat build up becomes a factor. If in doubt then go for the upgrade. I would recommend the uprated brake master cylinder irrespective of 2 or 4 pot caliper choice.

The dry sump is desirable for road use - it gives more ground clearance underneath especially if you select the 13" inch wheel. The oil temps are a function of the oil cooler. The overcooling effect is not as pronounced as you might expect since the engine water temp regulation does serve to underpin the oil temps from getting too cold. I'd take the dry sump option for ground clearance alone plus its a good idea since you occasionally want to track.

Your solution with the rollover valve, the loops of tubing, and careful placement of the vent is how I did it on my 65 Mustang and BMW. Works just fine. I'd vent the garage and see if it stopped the problem. If not then have a look at all fuel hoses to make sure you don't have a vent somewhere else that you should not.