bsimon

Mike, I'm real curious. Are the hose ends crimped or the reusable type?

Mike, I'm guessing you have the upgraded braided Stainless hoses on your CSR Generally, stainless brake lines are simple extruded Teflon hose encased in stainless braid. If you are seeing black specs and weeping, I would imagine that they are not Teflon but nitrile (Buna-N, NBR) hoses meant for fuel or oil. Nitrile lines are not pressure rated for brakes. Brake fluid eats nitrile as well. Methinks someone speced the wrong materials at Caterham. Scary...

:iagree: http://www.tiresdirect.net

The on-off binary feel of a clutch has to do with the choice of friction materials and number of driven plates in the clutch assembly itself. There is no correlation to the type of release mechanism. The annular clutch release slave cylinder is simply a substitute for the long lever of a linkage, cable, or external slave cylinder type setup. If your clutch feels binary, I'd suspect it's fitted with a metallic driven disk as opposed to an organic or synthetic type disk. Great for racing, not so great for engaging at an uphill stoplight. If the pedal is extremely hard to push, this can make a clutch somewhat hard to modulate as well. This is usually due to a poor choice of master/slave cylinder ratio in a hydraulic release setup like yours. The fix for the heavy pedal is to change out the master cylinder for one with a smaller bore.

Michael, How are you monitoring fuel pressure? I fought a similar battle for two years. As it were, the fuel pump was intermittently shooting craps. I would always see good fuel pressure on the under bonnet gauge. It wasn't until I had buttoned up the engine bay that the fuel pressure would drop out. With the assistance of several mates on the Yellowstone tour, we finally caught the pressure dropping with the bonnet off. A replacement pump fixed the issue once and for all. If I'd had a cockpit FP gauge, I'd have caught the problem long ago. I would have saved considerable gedas on unneeded replacement sensors as well. I now have a temporary cockpit FP gauge and have discovered that my replacement pump is marginal at full chat...but that's a whole 'nother problem

There has been considerable interest in a group buy of discounted Mirrorsforsevens panoramic rear view mirrors. I offered to bulk ship a minimum quantity of mirrors at a discount to a single address for local distribution. Since most of the interested parties are spread about the country, this would still require repackaging and shipping to individual addresses. I recognize that this is not a good way to implement a group buy, as it puts a single member of the group in the position of arranging collections, logistics, returns, and such. I believe a club discount would be a more reasonable approach to satisfying the interest shown in this thread. I am offering a $15.00 discount for USA7S club members. As it’s been the policy of the club to avoid commercialism in the general forum, there is a new thread in a more appropriate location. Please login and find the thread: "Mirrorsforsevens club member discount" in the "Club Matters" forum to peruse the details. For those of you who are not paid club members, you can join here: http://usa7s.com/vb/payments.php -Bob

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-gauge-air-nibbler-96661.html Best 30 clams I ever spent. Once you have one, you'll find more and more uses for it.

I'm sure they are just as noisy, or more. Hewland only makes racing 'boxes. All square cut gears and such. Same as Elite and Sadev. Quaife's marketing strategy is a bit different. Quaife offers helical and synchronized gear sets in some 'boxes to placate the handful of street users that can afford their stuff.

Here Looks like another alternative to Sadev, Quaife, and Elite. Probably just as pricey.

Elvis has left the building. :leaving:

:iagree: In all fairness, this logo is actually part of the Smithsonian's own little(big) bureaucracy. Of course the Smithsonian is a government funded agency supported by our very own charitable assessments(taxes). http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/ideas/2011/07/welcome-to-the-department-of-innovation/

Not the XEV. I was thinking more in lines of the aluminum block L61 Ecotec with the chain drive cams. Phenomenal HP (800-1000) when blown. I'm pretty sure that none of the Cosworth project KB technology from the C20XE filtered down to the L61 head though. Puffing an engine can certainly make up for ill breathing heads.

Leave it to the apparatchiks to create the perfect logo. An understatement of government efficiency.

Obviously, I'm a big fan of the C20XE but I wonder if anyone has given any though to the later GM Generation II four cylinder.:Chevy_anim: (not a big Chevy fan, just the first opportunity to use this smiley) I see 1000BHP blown versions of the Ecotec running on drag strips. Must be a rather strong block and head. I don't know if they breathe properly for NA applications though. Anyone else though about a lightweight oil burner as a prime mover? Maybe a 170 BHP VW/Audi 2.0 TDi, or a 270 BHP 3.0 TDi? Either might be a great candidate for the Stalker chassis as one could fit a large enough gearbox/drive train to contain the torque.

Grand dad used to tell me: "When times are tough,always invest in houses and lots...whore houses and lots of whiskey, that is."

17 years here. A modern fuel pump with less than a thousand miles is what shot craps. The real prize goes to Derek's car. 36 years old before normal metal fatigue made her shed any parts.

If I recall correctly, you have your ECU compensated for altitude with the internal atmospheric pressure sensor. I would guess you're seeing the results of unadulterated petrol. Can't explain the tank sender. I noticed almost every gas pump in SD was labeled with "No Alcohol Content" in quite prominent lettering. Could be they're catering to the Harley crowd.

We've another VX Caterham in the mad house! :cheers: Welcome Peter.

I'm not exactly sure what shaft you would need for Duratech or Zetec engines, as there are variations between different installations. I've seen Duratechs with both short and long shafts. There are really only two Ford input shafts available for the Type nine. The short shaft was used in the Ford 4 cylinder applications and the long shaft comes from the V6 cars. Most K-series and VX Caterhams use the long shaft. The third shaft is really the long one with 12-14mm bobbed off the spigot part of the shaft. This modification allows fitting to engines that have a shallow spigot bearing bore in the crank. (some K-series, VX, etc.) The hybrid shaft can be sourced off the shelf from Quaife, or you can bob your own with an angle grinder.

You can fill the combustion chamber with clothesline and rotate the crank to gently squish the clothesline against the valve heads to keep them closed for spring installation/replacement. When you're done, back off the crank and pull the line out of the chamber.

Home again. What a brilliant trip. :cheers: Work Sucks! :ack:

Derek and I each have an empty seat. If one of you chaps needs some Se7en during the tour, we'll hook you up. :cheers:

A rubber automotive body plug in just the right spot on the tunnel works well. A hole saw is your friend.

A shaved bit of plastic or wood 8.5mm X 12mm that's just long enough to span the cover flanges works a treat. Just flop it one way or t'other depending on the vintage of the Webers you're working on. Since you guys are fiddling with DCOEs, do a little research on the issue of internal throttle return springs. They can break and jam at WOT. Not a fun experience, I assure you. Only use external return springs. A redundant return spring is a good thing as well. Caterham used to remove the internal springs, but you should still check to make sure. If you have the carb off the manifold, the spring can be removed by unhooking it from the bell-crank between the bores and lifting it out through the top of the carburetor with the cover off. 48DCO/SPs as used in the VX powered Caterhams have no springs.

The teglerizer site references early Weber 40DCOE carbs with round brass floats. They show a correct 8.5mm with the needle closed. Caterham and Lotus both used this figure on early cars. For later typo 151 (40DCOE) and typo 152(45-48DCOE) carbs with synthetic (squared-off plastic) floats, the setting is 12mm. Caterham used this figure as well. There are some individual engine builders that alter these figures for their own special recipe. God and the builder only know why. Caterham does do some special drilling of idle progression holes, but as far as I understand, that's the only permanent machined alteration.