bsimon

"cheap Chinese crap" I prefer to think of it as "exclusive imported goods from the Far East". :jester: I remember when Pier One Imports was "cheap Oriental ratan crap" You could buy half the store for a couple of Jacksons. Clever marketing has made Pier One "exclusive" and "expensive" these days. Don't think that model will work for Harbor Fright however...

I was referring to common LiPo batteries. Honestly, I wasn't aware that there was a lithium chemistry that was somewhat safe. A little reading up showed the ferric phosphate technology to be promising. Older technology LiPos are really dangerous. Smart RC model enthusiasts actually place their batteries in a ballistic bag for recharging and storage. They do pop on occasion.

Hate to throw a turd in the punch bowl here, but... Have you guys thought about the ramifications of a LiPo battery exploding under the bonnet? Although these new batteries do have some built in precautionary devices that attempt to prevent such an occurrence, things still can go bad. LiPos explode in model planes and helis quite often. The brand name "Ballistic" doesn't articulate much confidence. Just saying...

Clapped out TPS maybe? Have you watched the TPS track in data logging? If your ITBs are Jenvey, they will have a Colvern TPS. This particular model is known to shoot craps. I've been through two Colverns before swapping to Bosch part from a BMW 328.

USB adapters are notoriously crappy. Reinstall all the drivers for the adapter and try again. I wish we could get Carl to add USB communications to Emerald. RS232 ports are no longer available on PCs.

Keep in mind that UK colour abbreviations found on wiring schematics are quite strange. N = brown B = black W = white U = blue R = red O = orange P = purple LG = light green K = pink Y = yellow S = slate Caterham follows the standard British wiring colours, for the most part. A chart can be found here.

The Caterham competition brake option used 4 pot AP calipers and vented disk for the front axle and 2 pot AP calipers and solid disks for the rear. Inclded in the kit were braided SS hoses and Mico cable operated spot brake calipers for the rear. The mico calipers were supposed to provide an emergency brake to meet MOT inspection requirements. Their function was "spotty" as best. Most of the Mico calipers now reside on shed shelves or have been binned. In 2000 or so, Caterham introduced a vented rear disk brake option for cars with the competition brake upgrade. The caliper was wider to accommodate the fatter disk. The "25 Hour of Thunderhill" Caterham factory car had this option. Only one I've ever seen, although I'm sure others have check that box on the order form. Only the earliest Caterham competition brake kits had the enamled "Caterham 7" badges attached to all four calipers. Later competition calipers had "Caterham" cast directly into the housing in raised lettering. All Caterham competition calipers have "AP Racing" cast into the caliper in raised lettering. Early calipers were grey and latter ones Black. The rear calipers were bolted radially to the alloy DeDion ear plates. The ear plates are specific for this application. Standard Caterham brakes have 2 pot front calipers and single pot sliding rear calipers. The standard rear calipers have a built in emergency brake. I believe the standard front calipers have "Caterham" cast into them, however the rears have "Ford" cast into them.

The AP rear caliper uses a pretty common formula ford pad. Just the two clips hold it in place. The 4 pot AP front caliper was originally a Formula Atlantic bit. Pad changes are slightly more involved as they are retained with a bridge piece and two socket head cap screws. As with the rear, caliper removal is not necessary.

On the two pot AP rear calipers, the pads lift out of the caliper when the two retainer clips are removed. No need to remove the caliper. http://qualmach.com/C20XE/Image02.jpg

The orientation of the VDO sender is such that you should be able to read the word "Germany" stem to stern while standing on the port side of the vehicle. If your car has Caerbont gauges ("Caterham" emblazoned on the clock dials), The orientation is such that the tabs for the faston connectors point to the front of the vehicle. You can sneak a peek by removing the screws from the boot floor and lifting it slightly. BTW...The boot floor can be removed without removing the FIA rollover bar (single or double cross braced roll bar). I'm not sure about the std rollover bar.

I'm not positive , but I believe the tank, pump, and sender is already installed and wired in the chassis of all Caterham kits.

Is there a possibility that someone removed the sender from the tank and re-installed it in the wrong orientation? You may be hearing the sender float banging against the inner wall of the tank.

There were 2 different electronic speedos in the first decade of the 21st century. The early one has DIP switch settings for crude calibration. The later uses the trip odo button method. You may have an early speedo that is set with switches.

Since my car is an older vintage, I've not had any experience with S-type seats. The combination of 1/2 headrests and S-type seats may just be the ticket. You may want to run a search on BC TechTalk to see if there is any conversation on this subject.

If they are the pre-S-type one piece seats (without the lift out butt pad), the head rests will not fit with the diagonal (FIA) roll over bar unless you wear trousers with a 25" inseam. The seats have to be in the most forward position to fit the headrests. I believe the S-type seats allow a little more rearward travel with the headrests in place.

Top gear in the T9 is an overdrive ratio. 4th is direct. Top gear in a Rocket box is direct.

For comparison... 3350@60MPH in Direct. 2900@60MPH in Over. 225/50/16 3.92 axle I drive on the expressway in Direct unless I'm going faster than 80. Overdrive is just too friggin' noisy to be comfortable.

Michael, Ford Sierra 7". The highest numerical ratio from Ford is 3.92 There are aftermarket 4.11 CWP sets available. Can't recall offhand who does them. Here's a good guide to the Ford Sierra diff and code plates. http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/Sierra_Rear_Differential If you find a 4.11 CWP, here's the manual to do the swap. www.qualmach.com/sierra%20diff/DiffOverhaul.pdf

I caught this on BC. Thought it might be appropriate... http://www.aerostich.com/media/readings/2008Catalog/carbs.html

Nope. Not even close. The C20XE was never sold in North America. The Cavalier used a pushrod 4 cylinder until it got the Quad four in 1995 and the Ecotec in 2002. The L61 Ecotec was the only engine with any potential, but it takes a high megabucks/horsepower ratio along with forced induction to make good power.

DeDion does sound a lot more sophisticated when juggling a glass of wine and a cocktail napkin. :cooldude:

Very much so. Although the Duratec and Zetec are 30 lbs. lighter, the C20XE is 20 lbs. lighter than a Kent block Ford 1.6/1.7L. I consider it a medium weight motor in the realm of Se7ens. Lighter than most, but heavier than some. The magic of the C20XE motor is in the head, designed by Cosworth as it's "Project KB" for Opel. Even minor lift stock cams give it monster breathing. The Coscast (Cosworth) and GM heads are technically identical. GM heads sometimes have a porosity issue that can be a PITA. This makes Coscast heads more desirable for the average Joe. If you are planning severe porting exercises, then the GM head is the one to have as it has more stock around the tracts. Many of the high power F3 motors from Swindon and Spiess use GM heads. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_II_engine#D-TEC.2FE-TECII http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C20XE Ya caught me.

A paper gasket will work if the mounting surface is still flat. A rubberized cork gasket may work better if the surface is warped a bit. The warping comes from over-tightening the screws.

Cut a paper type gasket, 1/32". Coat both sides and the screw threads with Hylomar and stick it back together. The threads will weep if they are not coated. Don't use RTV as it will perish in fuel. FWIU...the gasket is a standard pattern that is used in the Mini (real Mini, not BMW) and a number of other British cars. The bolt circle is 2-3/8". You might be able to score a pre-cut one at O'Reillys.

I attempted the string method. Holes still ended up getting a little larger than I had hoped for. I ended up dividing the forward boot floor into two pieces to get it in place. In retrospect, I think I'd opt for a cardboard boot floor pattern If I had it to do over. One thing you'll notice about the diff struts is that the side curtains will no longer be able to be stowed in the boot. At least on an S-3 chassis.