bsimon

Stewart, I've not heard about altering the gate spring in a type nine, but FWIW, the gate spring is a torsional (close pin) type spring that centers the shift rod in the 3-4 gate between 1-2 and overdrive. I suppose it could be removed or weakened in some way. I'd be a bit wary in that you might end up stirring up the wrong cogs at times when engine RPM might not match road speed. The gate spring really makes it easy to feel which side of the gate you are in. I imagine it reduces a bit of shifter rattle as well. I suppose one could do a bit of experimentation, but if it didn't work, it's an engine out exercise to restore it. There is a "race" spring available for the forward/aft selector rod. It actually makes the selection a bit stiffer to keep the box from jumping out of gear during on/off power modulations. A particular problem with dog engagement 'boxes and syncro 'boxes with worn blockers or broken blocker springs. There are a number of great replacement gear sets made for type 9 boxes if you wish to tinker. In the end, you'll probably have as much cash in the conversion as purchasing a reworked BGH type 9 from Caterham USA or other supplier. Production gearboxes are designed with a one piece layshaft. You need to change the number of teeth on the layshaft gears to alter ratios. Most aftermarket gear sets are manufactured from scratch and are quite expensive as the gears are splined onto the layshaft. BGH actually slices and welds the Ford one piece layshaft to save costs. Rather clever actually.

This and this explains why the little rodent creatures love to dine on car wiring. Make sure to thank an Enox.

I only peruse the US listings. Here's the list. Just cut and paste. thecarcover, discountautoparts,discountbodyparts, traderightly, replacementautoparts, carpartswholesale, drautomotiveonline,thecarcover, discountautoparts,discountbodyparts, traderightly, replacementautoparts, carpartswholesale,carpartscanada,covershield,elitecarcovers,coveroutlet,ltluxuries,automotivestyles,stopbyus ,autoarmour-auctions,covercentral,daytodayimports,brightpicks,goods_depots,carcoverman,remartautoparts,1stopautosalon,worldoutletcenter,speed_daddy,drautomotive,brakeoutlet,autopartsnerd,brandnewauto,nextdayautoparts,discountautoparts-usa,autopartstomorrow,gearhead_partsstore,centralcover,tcautopart ,2011emarket,usapowerseller,chart-one-auto,myautopartswholesale,midwest-autoparts,theandante ,autopartsexp,auto_parts_forever,carpartswhse10,baltauto,david bowes

:rant: It's come to pass that the typical E-bay searches for Se7en related stuff is totally polluted with commercial sellers of generic auto parts. Filters, floormats, carcovers, HID bulbs, etc. The searches I use are "Caterham", "Lotus 7", and "lotus seven" Maybe I'm simply misunderstanding some E-bay search feature that will turn all this crap off. It certainly wouldn't be the first time. Anyhoo, My current solution is to filter the generic mass sellers from the search using the "Seller", "Specify seller", Exclude" feature. I keep a master list of excluded sellers to cut the clutter. I update the list as new crap sellers get established in the different Se7en E-bay categories. If anyone is interested I'll paste the list here. There are some dupes in the list, but E-bay still processes it successfully. Alternatively, If someone has a more elegant solution, I'm all ears.

http://www.motifake.com/image/demotivational-poster/1102/real-gamers-gamers-high-score-demotivational-posters-1296668060.jpg

Derek, I'll have plenty of room for your gas, beer, and luggage.

How about "Lola B08/90 trackday chassis with a Caterham bumper sticker". The B08/90 is a de-tuned B07/90 Sports 2000 car.

OK I'm clearing the dates as we type. I'll be trailering to Custer on 7/12 and taking part in the day trips originating from there. I'll have to return to CO on Sunday. More Sevens, more seats, more fun.

THE BAG

There are a dozen or so different cans for the various Caterham models alone. I could use a 2.5" I/O X 5" X 20" to replace the clapped out stock zorst on my car. It's getting pretty loud these days, and Caterham no longer offers a replacement.

The good ol' Quaife QBE22Z is good for HP north of 250. It's a little noisy (square cut, dog box) , but has the balls to stay together with big HP. Reasonably priced as well. The next logical step would be one of the newer Quaife 80mm 'boxes like the QBE57G H-pattern, or (if you've hit the lotto) a QBE60G sequential. Both good for 375HP, they claim. Call Taylor race and see what they have to say.

"Poor little guy… probably kept up for a mile or so..."

Pegasus racing, here. If you want to retain the stainless look, use the Goodridge 811 hose.

How much braided stainless steel hose is in your fuel system? Most single layer nitrile hose (Earles, Aeroquip, etc.) weeps a bit of fumes. Not enough to be dangerous, just stinky. Fuel injection exacerbates the situation as 3-5 Bar of pressure is retained behind the injectors when you shut-down. The stink especially noticeable if you have long runs of hose from the tank to the engine bay. I hard-lined my chassis and switched to convoluted PTFE Goodridge 910 fuel hoses. No more stink. No more bitching from the missus. :hurray:

Caterham part number 76055E Here

I like it. Nice round features.

I really think the radiation issue is rather mute. The real issue is the back scatter porn machines won't stop some Jihadist from getting on the plane with a pound of Semtex crammed up his bum. I can imagine the next step in reactionary passenger screening will be be rather more invasive and personal.:ack:

The C20XE is also known as the Cosworth KB. Everything you wanted to know about the GM Generation II engine: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_II_engine#D-TEC.2FE-TECII. Modifications can take you from a peppy grocery getter all the way to a 300+HP Formula 3 or BTCC specification. There are several suppliers to the aftermarket. You can get some feeling of what can be achieved by perusing their websites. Swindon Racing Engines Spiess SBD Developments QED I've got links if you need them. The usual route is; Improved induction cams and solid tappets replaced connecting rod bolts (max 7800 rpm) steel connecting rods (max 8200 rpm) steel crank (9000+ rpm) reworked heads and larger valves (somewhere in here insert dry sump oiling if G forces are an issue.) It all comes down to the function of cash vs power. I assure you that function is not linear. What engine package does your chassis have? The Vaux HPC spec can have anything from a std. fuel injected tin top engine all the way up to the Swindon prepared Evolution III BTCC motor. The various specs include different improvements that might make a difference in what upgrade path you should take.

http://tpiwwp.com/out.php/i5686_TSA.jpg

DS here too. Be aware there is a lot more gadgetry in a DS system that could potentially fail, however, there are just too many pluses to not take a serious look at one. Particularly if you have considerable lolly invested in your spacer.

I don't think you'll find anything that short. A dual MC is actually two piston assemblies in line with each other in the same bore. It takes a bit of room to accommodate all these parts in the cylinder. 8"-9" for the shortest I've seen. Obviously, it would take a bit of fabricating, but you could use two MCs and a balance bar.

Ooooh, nice rack!

:iagree: On par with Home Shopping Network and midget wrestling. A real dud.

Hey, I thought I was doing good! I could've bought her a snow shovel....

Hillarious! I'd like to stay and chat with you guys, but I have a snow blower to return...