craig chima

Have two pair of clamshell fenders for sale. Both pairs used on vintage race car for many years. One pair is in good condition (i.e. no cracks) except for the typical spider web cracks that come from being hit with rocks, etc. $150 for this pair. The other pair has some some crash damage that will require some minor fiberglass repair but all necessary peices are intact (i.e. there are no missing peices). With a couple of hours worth of work and $20 of fiberglass from your local Wal Mart these fenders could be looking good again and ready for final sanding and paint. $75 for this pair or $200 for all four plus shipping from Akron, OH. Craig (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com

Pair of rear trailing links for original Lotus 7's or Solid axle Caterhams and/or other replicas. Same as your stock upper links except with adjustable spherical rod ends at both ends (3/8" front, 1/2" rear) for easy rear end alignment. These trailing links were recently powdercoated and look "new" and race-quality rod ends are included. $100 plus shipping. Craig (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com

Lightweight aluminum radiator for sale that's perfect for Caterhams and/or other "7" type replicas. We've been using this same style radiator in several of our race cars for the past 15+ years, and it's about 5# lighter than a stock Caterham unit. 20" wide by 12 7/8" tall by 2" thick means that it fits perfectly in the stock Caterham/Lotus 7 location (i.e. in front of steering rack). I can send pix to anyone interested but can't seem to get them posted here. Upper outlet is at the top left which makes the plumbing very simple for Ford Kent-powered cars, and the bottom outlet is at lower left meaning a crossover hose is required (but I will include with radiator). $100 plus shipping from Akron, OH. Craig (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com

Rick, Probably not although you could send me pix of the Porsche to my email address just to see what it looks like. chima97@aol.com. Thanks, Craig

In case anyone is interested, the car is still for sale and I finally got it on the scales tonight and it came out about as expected. 1133# with the road wheels and tires and 1127# with the track wheels and tires. Makes for quite a potent power to weight ratio with the BDR motor. This is a car that will legitimately run upper 130's mph top speed as it sits. Craig

BlueMax, a 105e is a 1 liter 3-main motor, typically raced in formula juniors. Just FYI.

I realize that I posted the original ad for my Caterham for sale several months ago (that post now found in the middle of page 2 in this section), but now that the car is basically finished I thought that I'd start over with a new thread and pictures. If you need any additional details on the specs of the car please refer to that original ad or feel free to email me directly or give me a call. With the car finally close to being finished, I took it for a drive this morning and aside from some very minor de-bugging (all will be finished by the end of this weekend) it's spot on and ready to go. The BDR motor is astonishingly strong and all suspension setup work is completed and it runs and drives great. But given that I'm more or less "helpless" when it comes to computers and can't seem to figure out how to post the current pictures (taken this morning) I've sent them to a friend and asked if he can help so hopefully there will be pix on this site in the next day or two. The price is $25K firm with 2 sets of wheels (the ones seen in the pix with new street tires on them and a set of nearly identical Panasports with centers painted yellow to match the car) with shaved Toyo RA1's for track day or similar use. Since the original ad was posted I have added low oil pressure (red) and high water temp (amber) warning lites to the dash as a precautionary measure and got rid of the old Lucas alternator in favor of a lightweight one more suitable to the car. Car is in Akron Ohio and it's finally stopped raining around here so maybe I'll get to enjoy it for awhile before it sells. Craig (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com http://www.usa7s.org/vb/images/misc/progress.gif

Well, I'm about a month behind schedule, but the car is finally close to being finished and is basically ready for sale. Took it for a drive this morning and aside from some very minor de-bugging (all will be finished by the end of this weekend) it's spot on and ready to go. The BDR motor is astonishingly strong and all suspension setup work is completed. As I'm more or less "helpless" when it comes to computers and can't seem to figure out how to post current pictures I've sent them to a friend and asked if he can help so hopefully there will be pix on this site in the next day or two. The price is $25K firm with 2 sets of wheels (the ones seen in the pix with new street tires on them and a set of nearly identical Panasports (centers painted yellow to match the car) with shaved Toyo RA1's for track day or similar use. Since the original ad was posted I have added low oil pressure (red) and high water temp (amber) warning lites to the dash as a precautionary measure and got rid of the old Lucas alternator in favor of a lightweight one more suitable to the car. Car is in Akron Ohio and it's finally stopped raining around here so maybe I'll get to enjoy it for awhile before it sells. Craig

In Akron, OH. I can send you a pix of the bar that I just did for my BDR powered car if you give me your email address. Thanks, Craig P.S. Can make the bar in either 1.5" or 1.375" dia tubing in whatever wall thickness you desire. If you prefer to email direct, you can send to chima97 "at" aol.com

For $500 I could build you the bar you want, in the height you want, with the forward/rearward lean that you want, with as many diagonals as you want, and have it be a direct bolt in replacement and powdercoated in the color of your choice. Craig

Out of curiousity, what does Caterham charge for a bar like that these days. My guess is that I could do one exactly to your specs for considerably less..... Craig

Car was dropped off at body shop yesterday (Monday 3/7) and will hopefully be painted by the end of the month. At that point it will be 2 or 3 days to put fenders, lights, exhaust and some smaller stuff back on the car and at that point it should be finished and ready to go. Thanks to those who have inquired thus far and wanted to let everyone know that it's "on schedule" to be finished early April as anticipated. Craig

Rune, My car has chassis number AM 109. It is a LHD car and the number is stamped into the chassis tube that holds the brake pedal bracket assembly. Hope this helps. Craig

Karl, First and foremost, thanks for helping post the pix! In terms of the various cars and rollbar designs I'll make a few comments here. All of the "race car" rollbars are 100% welded in with no removeable components. The blue car is a SCCA F Production car and represents what is more or less a "full rollcage" per SCCA rules. It has a full-width main hoop with 2 side intrusion bars on each side, plus forward and rearward facing diagonal bars. The two silver cars are both vintage race cars. One has a single-hoop design that extends to the passenger side of the car (the all-silver clamshell fendered car). The main hoop on that car actually attaches to the floor immediately behind/beside the seats and this feature offers an extra degree of side intrusion protection. The fact that the main hoop extends to the top rear parcel shelf cover on the passenger side before turning downwards to the floor allowed me to affix a side intrusion bar on the passenger side that was more or less symmetrical to the one on the driver's side. On the silver/red cycle fendered car, the goal was to build the car as light and as safe as possible and the main hoop extends only to the center of the chassis (there is plenty of sub-structure underneath the rear tonneau cover to support that leg of the main hoop). This main hoop attaches to the chassis at the top of the shock tower on the drivers side, and the side intrusion bar on the driver's side is probably the closest example of what I would build for Mike (or anyone else)in a "bolt in" version for occasional track day use. The front attachment point would be just underneath the dash height and should not intrude into the interior in any capacity. I would use doubler plates to attach the side-intrusion bars both front and rear. The rollbar that you see on the yellow chassis (that is my 1978 BDA powered Caterham that I just posted for sale) is obviously a full-width FIA style "bolt-in" bar. It is 1.5" diameter tubing (all of the race cars are 1.375 diameter tube) and while there is no diagonal within the plane of the main hoop, with .120 wall thickness main hoop, I can assure you that the chassis would deform long before the rollbar! I could make this style of bar in pretty much any height required and would be happy to add a diagonal within the plane of the main hoop should someone feel more comfortable with that. In terms of side intrusion bars, my preference is to radius them out and away from the chassis (and any potential arm/shoulder interference) by 2" to 3" and then have them angle back inwards towards the front hoop. This is probably best represented in the picture of the #5 silver/red cycle fendered car, and the driver's side bar. I've done several other designs, but there are fairly representative of what I think offers maximum protection with the best asthetics. I'm happy to work with anyone on this site to build a bar that exactly suits your needs. Craig

Bruce, The Ginetta was a great project and actually belongs to a guy named Bob Bramlage from Kansas. I have done several 7 restorations in recent years of comparable quality to what you see in the G4 pictures. I expect the Caterham that is for sale to be pretty darn close in all respects to the preparation level of the G4 with the exception that the aluminum skin was never removed from the chassis. The chassis has the original powdercoat and I really saw no reason to remove the skin, media blast, and then re-powdercoat it all. There are a few small blemishes in the finish of the frame (to be expected after 30 years of use!), but structurally it is absolutely perfect and straight and true. Craig

Karl, I just tried to upload 3 different rollbar pix but kept getting error messages. Perhaps I could email the pix directly to you or some other kind soul on this site and ask for assistance in getting them posted. I'd be happy to send the pix to you if you'd consider this (and provide me with an email address) I could then make some follow-up comments relating to the criteria used when building the individual rollbars shown in the photos. Thanks in advance, Craig

Guys, Will try to figure out how to post pix of recent project cars and/or rollcages. Maybe will even get this figured out tonite! Craig

While the car has a valid Caterham chassis tag/data plate, a previous owner chose to title it as an "assembled vehicle" (i.e. kit car) and that registration would go with the car. On the registration/title, it basically says "1990 assembled vehicle." There was a state-issued VIN number tag that was attached to the firewall/scuttle right beneath the Caterham data plate and that VIN matches the registration. I would also imagine that without too much effort, someone could get the car titled as a 1978 Caterham, using the Caterham chassis tag and I.D. number but I never bothered to pursue that option. Hope this helps. Craig

1978 Caterham For Sale. This car has been my own personal project for close to the past two years. It is essentially a brand new car from top to bottom, and will be painted (show quality), re-assembled, and fully sorted (including being scaled and balanced) within the next 3 months. I am posting here in advance of it being finished in the event someone is currently looking for a car with a Spring purchase date in mind. There has been no expense spared on this ultimate hot-rod and when finished it will be “concours” from top to bottom. Here is a brief description of the key components/upgrades. 1760 cc Ford BDR motor on twin 48DCOE Webers. Originally built by Dave Bean Engineering and recently freshened. 10:1 compression and 185+bhp on premium pump gas. Billet crank, Carillo rods, steel main caps, dry sumped, etc, etc. etc. This is a motor that can easily rev to 9000 rpm or beyond. Includes lightweight aluminum flywheel with new heavy duty clutch. Custom built (CC Motorsports) 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust, (header tube sizes matched to motor output) and freshly Jet Hot coated (silver) Quaife close ratio transmission with aluminum bellhousing and tailshaft housing. This freshly built transmission has straight cut gears and 2.4:1 first gear and 1:1 4th. Transmission also has custom annular clutch throwout bearing assembly. Solid rear axle (English Ford) with 3.9 final drive and clutch pack limited slip differential. Rear axle housing has been straightened, strengthened with stego plate, and is located by custom-built lower A-frame with adjustable spherical bearing. Custom built front suspension using late-model Caterham double a-arms, with CC Motorsports drop spindles in order to lower the car and yet maintain proper suspension geometry. Front suspension also has lightweight aluminum hubs with new bearings, rebuilt calipers and new brake pads. Custom built rollbar (similar to Caterham FIA bar), suitable for 6’ 2” + drivers made out of 1.5” diameter DOM tubing and powdercoated in a satin black finish Carbon fibre Caterham aeroscreen with carbon fibre mirrors All new interior including re-covered dash, refurbished gauges, new under-dash wiring, and re-covered Caterham bench style seats. New rear tonneau cover and dual Simpson 6 point harnesses. Additional features as follows: * Spax adjustable shocks (ride height and valving) both front and rear. * Panasport lightweight 13 x 7 wheels & Toyo Proxes RA1 205x60x13 tires * New aluminum fuel tank and sending unit * Re-cored Caterham radiator with 2 lightweight auxiliary cooling fans * Oil Cooler and Oil Thermostat * Aeroquip braided lines and AN fittings throughout * Facit electric fuel pump and Holley fuel pressure regulator * Remote oil filter assembly * Super Starter * New brake and clutch master cylinders * Lucas Gold Sport Coil * New (Fall 2010) Odyssey battery and aluminum hold down * All-new underhood aluminum I built this car to be a combination street car/ultimate track-day weapon. I have not yet weighed it (as it is not yet finished), but expect it to be in the 1125# to 1150# range. It has new fluids (Brad Penn motor oil, Red Line synthetic trans and diff lube, AP 550 brake fluid) and as mentioned above, it is essentially a brand new car. It was also built with the idea that it would be a relatively “simple” car to maintain (i.e. no computer or related electronics). Asking $27,000 or near offer and would cost considerably more to duplicate. Craig Chima (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com. Can provide pix of the car in its current state and I anticipate it being finished by mid-April. Thanks for looking.

The type of "scab on" rollbar extension as seen in the pix would most likely fail in any type of rollover where it would be truly needed. I have built numerous rollbars (single-hoop, half width, full width, etc) along with full-on rollcage structures for street, vintage, and SCCA prepared 7's and Caterhams and would be happy to either build or assist with designing something suitable for anyone on this site. In fact, I have just finished a bolt in rollbar assembly for my own BDR powered Caterham that is being built with track day use in mind. It is very comparable to the FIA style Caterham bar and can tell you that the cost of duplicating would be far less than what Caterham was charging for that item! Please feel free to contact me if you are interested in doing a bar and I'll be happy to forward some pix of bars that I have done in the past. Thanks, Craig

Sold

Sold!

Pair of stock lower a-arms for mid-70's Caterham (same as S3 Lotus). Need paint but otherwise straight and sound. Will include a set of new bushings with the a-arms. $150 (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com

New "Super Seven" valve cover (with gasket). Aluminum with Black satin powdercoat finish. Fits any Ford Kent pushrod motor. $150. (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com

I can help with the air cleaners and housings if you are still looking. Please call 330 807 0742 or email me at chima97@aol.com. Thanks, Craig