yellowss7

Nice race lines! I don't think I have the cahones to do that in traffic. What type of wear and tear on the engine do you anticipate from running at near max rpms for 20 minutes at a time? Tom

Here's a short video clip of my first bullet cam test. Next time I'll wind it out. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Andrew7 posted " Towing isn't to be taken lightly" You got that right! I totaled my wife's Durango towing my 7 in an 18 ft enclosed Pace trailer. The trailer started swaying, then it got really bad and caused me to bounce off the left guardrail (from the right lane) and then back to end up on and almost over the right guardrail. Trailer jacknifed. Force was so great it straightend out the metal tie down strap hooks. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif 7 slid forward about 2 feet, with only a slight ding to the left rear wing when it hit the inside fender well of the trailer. This all happend on the NE extention of the PA Turnpike and I was only doing 55 when it started. Someone told me I should have squeezed the trailer brake controller and accelarated. Yeah, that's not as easy as it sounds. Wife won't let me tow anymore. Stay safe Tomyellowss72007-03-31 11:57:18

Al, I had numbers made up in static cling vinyl that are applied with soapy water then squeegeed out to remove air bubbles. Works well, easily removed and reapplied. Didn't cost alot either. Some guys just use the blue painters tape to make numbers. 7 is an easy one to make. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Yeah, a head on crash and the front hood isn't even dented. That's a carbon fiber body too isn't it? What do you think... 200k to repair?

Boy does that fat pig of car understeer or what! Mazda, I told you you can have too much power in an autox. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Al, to paraphrase the late Jonnie Cochran; "if you come you must run". http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Go to phillyscca.com and go to the monthly schedule section, page down to April 15th and click on the "Warminster" link. It will give you good directions. We run in heat 2 of the AM session, so to run you need to be there by 8-8:30 to register,tech, walk the course. First car is off at 10 AM. Second heat will begin around 11:30 depending on the number of cars in the first heat. If you're just watching be there by 11:15. You could always run non comp in the afternoon if you're there by 11:30. If you come, and don't want to run, you can ride with me. Loaner helmets are provided or bring your own. Hope to see you there. Hopefully there will be a couple of other Caterhams there as well. (Right LANCE ???) Tom yellowss72007-03-26 06:27:23

Al, a few years ago I went over to England and went to the Stoneliegh kit car show which is well represented by the Lotus 7 club of GB. There were over 230 Caterhams in attendance and NO TWO are alike!!! From color, wheels, motors, dash layout, you name it. I could not find two alike. And that was just the Caterham area. Each Marque had its own separate area. Westies, Dax, Tiger,Robin Hoods, Locosts, and a few I've never heard of. And that was just the LSIS's. Cobras, Jag replicas, and tonnes of others. It's a great show if you ever get the chance to attend. Usually, the first weekend in May. Tom

Sorry Ed. I miss read the request. They Y you're looking for is the height from the botttom edge of the scuttle to the middle of the bolt hole. That would be 32mm. X1 is still 47mm. from the forward edge of the scuttle indent to the middle of the first bolt. Hope that is what you're after.

Then I the figures I gave are what you want. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif Tom

Ed, If you're looking for the distance from the front of the scuttle to the center of the first bolt on the windscreen stanchion, and then the distance between the two bolts, on my standard sized Catherham X1 is 47mm and Y is 140mm. Tom

Thanks Jeff. I ran the mic across the top of the trans. up under the dash just ahead of the shifter, so i don't think wind was the problem, it just has really low volume, and poor quality. It came with the bullet cam and is part of the wires that connect to the bullet cam. Even in the house the volume is really low even with the video camcoarder volume up. I have seen video's with horrible wind noise so I know what you mean. Off to Radio shack. Tom

Fired up the Beast for the first time since Mid November and took it out for a nice Blat. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Thought for a moment that Al had jinxed me, it cranked over for about 10 seconds without firing up. Fired up on the next turn of the key. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif Tried out the next Bullet Cam set up. Camera works great. But I'm not at all happy with the Sound quality. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif Anyone have a mic recommendation. I'm using the one that came with the bullet cam system. But its not loud and sounds really tinny. Not even close to R1's example. Should I just get one that plugs into the Camcorder?? Tom

Ok Al,Lance, and any other 7 owners in the Philly area. The 2007 Philly Region SCCA autox season begins on Sunday April 15th at Warminster Community Park, which includes the old Airstrip on which we compete. It's a great venue with course length in the 50-60 second range for 7 type cars. It's only a few of miles off the Willow Grove exit of the Pa turnpike. Check out Phillyscca.com for directions, and other info. Hope to see more 7's competing this year. Tom

Al, I don't have a zetec, but I do have the Jenvey Throttle bodies and I find that to start mine up, I do the same with the fuel pump, wait until it stops, then when I turn the key I lighly feather the gas pedal to help it fire up. Has worked well for the past 7 years and I'm still on the orignial banner battery, and with a 12.4:1 compression ratio that's saying something! (I plan to get it out on Thursday or Friday as the weather forcast looks promising. I hope the 2 foot drift in front of my garage bay melts by then) Tom

Thanks for the Pics Al. I just hate drilling holes in my car.

Al, if you get a chance, could you post a photo of where the doors attach to the car? I bought a set of the same doors, but never put them one. Thanks Tom

Engine choice is wide open as long as it fits. You can bring engines into the US as Auto parts. Customs and the EPA are ok with it. However, you may be subject to your local state inspection regs. Tom

Thanks Bart. That's easy enough to test. I got that pressure from Michael Dougherty, he's using the same. I'll switch the springs once it warms up a bit. Anyone have experience with an adjustable front and or rear anti sway bar? I know Freestyle in the UK sells them. Thanks guys for all your suggestions, it gives me somethings to check at the next test and tune. Come on Spring. Tomyellowss72007-02-20 17:12:36

Birkin42, stock springs are 170 front 150 progressive rear. Yes currently stock. Front and rear swaybars are stock. Car handles great other than the roll. I could lower the ride height but since I'm only running 75mm clearance under the sump, I'm hesitant to go too low, since I do drive it on the street too. Tom yellowss72007-02-20 06:01:25

The original tires were Avon CR500's on 13 inch wheels. They are Radial design. The Slicks are 13 inch Bias design, that I run at 12-12.5 PSI. I seem to recall that the overall diameter stayed pretty much the same. Never had the problem with the AVONS, and the tail pipe was always oriented that way. The swaybars are the stock superlight set up. Green bushed 18mm up front and I believe 1/2 in the back on the front most setting.yellowss72007-02-20 05:16:09

I'm currently running stock Caterham springs and shocks with a wide track front end. After having George Alderman at Midlantic Caterham cornerweight it and adjust the toe and camber, the car handled really well, i.e. no understeer, and just a tad of power on oversteer. However, on Slicks, I find that the car does have a significant roll to it on hard turns. So much so that the side exhaust pipe actually scrapes the ground on hard right handers. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif (See attached photo) I bought a set of 250 lb front springs to try out, but I know that if I stiffen the front up I will probably get more understeer. I could go to a smaller front anti roll bar but it's the roll I'm trying to limit. Any suggestions? Tom http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070219_165859_Copy_of_philly_.jpgyellowss72007-02-20 05:50:09

Chip Bond the Caterham dealer in Va. is very responsive. I bought a couple of rear wings from him and he only charged $7 for shipping and they arrived in 2 days. George Alderman at Midlantic Caterham is also a good guy, and I've also had good results with RMSCI. in Denver. Tom

Just had an order of parts shipped from Caterham and it too cost me about 41 pounds to ship. A couple of front springs, spark plugs and 5 oil filters. Not a bargain by any means. I had an engine shipped over and it was only 500 dollars shipping. BTW, I got charged $12 dollars Custom fees in addition to the shipping on the parts order. Tom

Sounds awesome, though I'm not sure that overdriving it like that is the fastest way around the course. But it sure looked like fun. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif Tom