yellowss7

If you're importing an engine from England, don't forget to factor in import duty, shipping and crating costs, and if your state requires sales tax to be computed when registering the car add that to the cost as well. Speaking from my experience. :ack: One of the guys here in Pa. put a Zetec in his seven, and I'm pretty sure he bought it from a Scrap yard and I know he only spent a couple of grand on it. I'll email him for the details. Tom

Al, don't let them try to psych you out! Sunday is going to be a nice day for an autox especially compared to 2 weeks ago. This one is at the Boeing helicopter plant just off I-95 just an exit past the Philly airport. Smaller lot but will be fun. If you don't drive the 7, the offer is still open to ride with me and I may be able to convince an instructor to let you take a run in mine. PM me if you need more info. I run in the 4th heat which should start around 2:30-3:00 PM. Hope to see you there. If not May 6th is another one at the Warminster location. Tom

I don't think there is anything wrong with the Zetec. But I believe the Duratec has more potential for power upgrades. I "think" that the Zetec tops off at around 220 bhp before it becomes prohibitive. The Duratec comes in a 2.0 or a 2.3 both of which can make 240+ and up to 300 respectively. Not cheaply though. There might also be a slight weight penalty with the Zetec vs the Duratec, but I don't have the weights to back this up.

I think the Touring option is the 3.62 diff combined with the 6 speed. I don't think they actually change the gearing in the box. And I agree, the Duratec would be the engine of choice if I was building a new one. Tom

Hey Dave. I saw one of your bikes at my friend Len J. recently. Nice work. Please stop posting scenic pictures like that. It's not nice to tease us easterners. :lol: Tom

Welcome to the world of 7's! My understanding is that the 6 speed was developed for the high reving K series motors as they needed the close ratio's to keep the engine in the power band. I happen to have a k series with the 6 speed and it is a blast. However, 6th is 1:1 ratio. There is no crusing gear like on a 5 speed. So if you're going to do long highway drives, the 6 speed can be tiring due to the higher revs. I believe the 5 speed is a good match to the ford motor. It's a little less expensive as well. The 6 speed is a strong gearbox, with great feel. Very smooth and short throws. As for autocrossing, most course are done in 1 and 2 with very few requiring 3rd. At least in my experience with the 6 speed. Max rev's in second is around 70 mph in mine. Guess it also depends on what rear ratio you are going to run with. I have the 3.62 with the six speed although for pure accelleration the 3.92 would be quicker at the expense of the top end with no overdrive. As for brakes, I belive the standard brakes are more than up to the task in normal use. You don't have to use them too much. Again that being said I ordered mine with the upgraded big brake option. If you were doing track days it might be worth it but for autox, you're not going to get brake fade, Hope that helps. Tom

Just got back from a nice blat. In what other car, can you ask your 17 year old daughter if she'd like to join you for a drive, and she says yes! We were bringing joy to all when we came to the first stop sign and it just shut down. :cuss: Cranked ok but wouldn't fire up. Luckily we were on a flat section of road and I pushed us across the intersection to take a look. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts, I left the air filter off and it fired right up. I figured that I must have over oiled the filter after I cleaned it. Does this make sense? Got it home. Cleaned off the filter, reinstalled and it ran fine. :hurray: Continued the blat for another hour. Even on the street tires this thing handles so well, that it's unreal. Still can't wipe the grin off my face. Hope everyone has time for a blat today. Tom

Looks like most 7 user's can follow simple directions. :flag:

Yeah, the 7 was meant to be YELLOW. IMHO http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

M12 is the size of the stud,1.5 is the thread pitch. Don't know what a Knurl diameter is. yellowss72007-04-18 08:58:53

I don't know about a 94, but on a 2001 with the dedion rear, M12 x 1.5 by 40mm long is what the boys on BlatChat confirm. Tom

Yeah, Street Legal! I bet every cop you pass pulls you over. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif An I'm sure that anyone driving behind you will get a windshield full of stones. Would be great on a track though. Real engineering to keep you safe when you smack the wall. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gif Tom

The Clams, attach to the wing stay at the side repeater and then bolts into the rivenuts in the side panel. I remember drilling into the wing to mount the repeaters and the wing stay. Measure twice drill once. If you need any photos, Just ask. Tom

$1500 http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cuss.gif To replace my K series I figure around $16K plus shipping and customs. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gif Bike engines are an incredible bargain!!! Rev that little bugger.. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Nice race lines! I don't think I have the cahones to do that in traffic. What type of wear and tear on the engine do you anticipate from running at near max rpms for 20 minutes at a time? Tom

Here's a short video clip of my first bullet cam test. Next time I'll wind it out. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Andrew7 posted " Towing isn't to be taken lightly" You got that right! I totaled my wife's Durango towing my 7 in an 18 ft enclosed Pace trailer. The trailer started swaying, then it got really bad and caused me to bounce off the left guardrail (from the right lane) and then back to end up on and almost over the right guardrail. Trailer jacknifed. Force was so great it straightend out the metal tie down strap hooks. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif 7 slid forward about 2 feet, with only a slight ding to the left rear wing when it hit the inside fender well of the trailer. This all happend on the NE extention of the PA Turnpike and I was only doing 55 when it started. Someone told me I should have squeezed the trailer brake controller and accelarated. Yeah, that's not as easy as it sounds. Wife won't let me tow anymore. Stay safe Tomyellowss72007-03-31 11:57:18

Al, I had numbers made up in static cling vinyl that are applied with soapy water then squeegeed out to remove air bubbles. Works well, easily removed and reapplied. Didn't cost alot either. Some guys just use the blue painters tape to make numbers. 7 is an easy one to make. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Yeah, a head on crash and the front hood isn't even dented. That's a carbon fiber body too isn't it? What do you think... 200k to repair?

Boy does that fat pig of car understeer or what! Mazda, I told you you can have too much power in an autox. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Al, to paraphrase the late Jonnie Cochran; "if you come you must run". http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Go to phillyscca.com and go to the monthly schedule section, page down to April 15th and click on the "Warminster" link. It will give you good directions. We run in heat 2 of the AM session, so to run you need to be there by 8-8:30 to register,tech, walk the course. First car is off at 10 AM. Second heat will begin around 11:30 depending on the number of cars in the first heat. If you're just watching be there by 11:15. You could always run non comp in the afternoon if you're there by 11:30. If you come, and don't want to run, you can ride with me. Loaner helmets are provided or bring your own. Hope to see you there. Hopefully there will be a couple of other Caterhams there as well. (Right LANCE ???) Tom yellowss72007-03-26 06:27:23

Al, a few years ago I went over to England and went to the Stoneliegh kit car show which is well represented by the Lotus 7 club of GB. There were over 230 Caterhams in attendance and NO TWO are alike!!! From color, wheels, motors, dash layout, you name it. I could not find two alike. And that was just the Caterham area. Each Marque had its own separate area. Westies, Dax, Tiger,Robin Hoods, Locosts, and a few I've never heard of. And that was just the LSIS's. Cobras, Jag replicas, and tonnes of others. It's a great show if you ever get the chance to attend. Usually, the first weekend in May. Tom

Sorry Ed. I miss read the request. They Y you're looking for is the height from the botttom edge of the scuttle to the middle of the bolt hole. That would be 32mm. X1 is still 47mm. from the forward edge of the scuttle indent to the middle of the first bolt. Hope that is what you're after.

Then I the figures I gave are what you want. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif Tom

Ed, If you're looking for the distance from the front of the scuttle to the center of the first bolt on the windscreen stanchion, and then the distance between the two bolts, on my standard sized Catherham X1 is 47mm and Y is 140mm. Tom