Bonjo2 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 The latest. Not quite complete as I'm still working on sump guard, front wings, and installation of some competition ported heads. And possibly a ton more stickers and/or stencil art. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xcarguy Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) Fascinatingly cool, Avery! Insanely aggressive look! . . . and those teeth!!!! :devil: Edited March 3, 2016 by xcarguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WestTexasS2K Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Love the wheels what brand are they? They would look great on my 67 Chevy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scannon Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Is that tall lever with the red knob a rear wheel hand brake? Are you building this as a drift car, rally car or? Was there a previous incarnation of the Bomb Girl? Inquiring mind(s) wants to know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 First "Bomb Girl" I did the COURAGE as a tribute to the early 80's Lotus F1 Cars. The wheels are a bit heavy, American Racing Salt Flats, like stock S-10 or my previous AR wheels. Bolt pattern really limits choices, and all seem built for a 3500b car or truck, 17x12 rear and 15x9 front. Even with custom offsets they were about $200 each, vs the $499-1200 I was quoted for lightweight custom drilled. Add a couple cans of gold spray paint. Initial setup was white, then eBay carbon vinyl and red came vinyl. Drift brake was alway there. Add a wood block to wedge between dash and handle and the emergency brake becomes a parking brake. I don't use it much, other than to initiate a donut or quick 1-2 lane 180. The car is very hard to drift due limited steering angle. I built a windshield frame, but I cannot pass inspection with my squeegee (manual wiper), and without a defrost mech. So, Brooklands are back on. I am running another standing 1/2 mile with hopes to go faster than 150. The t-56 doesn't like redline shifts, so will try short shifting at 125 and hope the torque carries me the rest of the way. Last time rev limiter and no 5th best of 142. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 https://instagram.com/p/BC0icJExhuX/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xcarguy Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 492...at the wheels!!!! :svengo::willy_nilly::drool: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Enough for now. 92 octane gas and MAP sensor location, and tight inlet piping kept me out of the 500 club. But, solid safe tune for my 7/11 gas and to move my big ass. It is so smooth now too since Josh removed the fly by wire ramp up, now 100% throttle avail at any rpm. It made car much easier to drive and no longer breaks loose like a freak when the throttle program decides 100% throttle is o.k. Fans now on 100% early too, to match thermostat. Now 199 is pretty much as hot as it gets when sitting in traffic for 30 minutes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xcarguy Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Are you running an oil cooler? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 Are you running an oil cooler? No. I had looked at coolers in past and even got one when I purchased the accusump, but sold both when got the custom oil pan and high flow oil pump. There wasn't enough room to ensure good airflow with the thick C&R radiator and huge puller fan. I toyed with the idea of using two small units in a levante style, but now think now a small/medium double cooler with -10 AN lines to tie oil cooler and heater core best, placed horizontal just under top surface of nose cone's extractor vent with a small fan pushing up from under. Since recent tune haven't had any issue--I had car running idle for over 45min after running 9 back to back 0-150mph runs. Oil temp hit only 245 and water only 205. I know of many who run their heater lines through a radiator that has 2 separate circuits, or the three channel drag race radiators (normally radiator, oil cooler and tranny cooler). Kinda like the old days of drag racing and autocross when you ran your heater on high for the extra cooling. I'm currently at odds with my car, the transmission, steering, and rear end... Give me a call sometime, during the day, if you can. Even with all the LS power, it's easy to reach the limit and then you quickly realize the stuff that's not up to the velocity, revs, or sideways antics.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Funny how a minor repair turns into a complete overhaul. New t56 super magnum, 3:08 gears, dif, oil cooler, intake, cleaned up wiring etc.... Car is now completely nuts. First gear is used and goes past 60! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Lightweight flywheel, 800 ftlb puck clutch, underdrive balancer, new tie rod ends, radiator supports, and stickers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MightyMike Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Your Storker is over-the-top! I love what you've done with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Short lived revival. No oil pressure, replaced sensors, primed to 20 psi. Nothing. I hope the over rev didn't spin a main bearing. Checked valley gaskets, compression, and oil pump pick up o-ring... All sound. Now to replace oil pump (again) and see if that works. I really don't want to do main bearings or rebuild.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Added a 20 psi to the ddII 7.5 psi oil pressure warning. I might need to gets bigger tank than 1 gal, to prime higher than 20 psi. I can only get about a quart in through galley before drop off. Compression good on all 8, and sparkers look clean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 FIXED. Nothing about over-revving a motor is cheap. I sure wish a fuse had blown. At least no main bearings! The electric bits were worse then mechanical. Melling hp oil pump failed, spring cracked and compressed to side, relief valve stuck open. Electric power steering fried main line but no fuse pop, re-wired and reset, good to go. Crank position sensor—dead. Cam position sensor dead. (LS motor still runs without each, rough) Oil pressure sensor, dead x2 (these suckers are . Digidash wiring loom melted, from the electric steering wire burn. Next time, not to tape wires together… The digidash New clutch and lightweight flywheel to get used to. Gearing is amazing, no more instant burn out in first and second. Now, just goes and snaps neck. Nothing like second and third gear now… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 FIXED. Nothing about over-revving a motor is cheap. I sure wish a fuse had blown. At least no main bearings! The electric bits were worse then mechanical. Melling hp oil pump failed, spring cracked and compressed to side, relief valve stuck open. Electric power steering fried main line but no fuse pop, re-wired and reset, good to go. Crank position sensor—dead. Cam position sensor dead. (LS motor still runs without each, rough) Oil pressure sensor, dead x2 (these suckers are sensitive). Digidash wiring loom melted, from the electric steering wire burn. Next time, not to tape wires together… New clutch and lightweight flywheel things to get used to. Gearing is amazing, no more instant burn out in first and second. Now, just goes and snaps neck. Nothing like second and third gear now… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
justinmarshall Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Great ride! Where did you get that steering wheel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonjo2 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 The steering wheel is from 2011 when the car was born. Grant 11" suede. I decided to double down and re-invent the car once more this winter. We did the math and it's at 705 flywheel BPH/Ton. I am now targeting Miata weight balance and measures with added downforce and ugh, safety bits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xcarguy Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 The steering wheel is from 2011 when the car was born. Grant 11" suede. I decided to double down and re-invent the car once more this winter. We did the math and it's at 705 flywheel BPH/Ton. I am now targeting Miata weight balance and measures with added downforce and ugh, safety bits. You're an animal, Kevin....pure animal.:jester: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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