waltermitty Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Building a Birkin using Duratec 2.5 from '12 Ford Fusion. Got a pretty clean engine off ebay for about $550, claimed 57k miles. Got the pan, valve cover, cams, timing chain, front cover, etc., off. Did the Massive balance shaft delete, VCT delete and EGR delete. Discovered I will need at the minimum a non-VTC intake cam. No stock intake cams on ebay. I am going to call Crower tomorrow. I was told I needed some additional head work but after taking a look at the VTC setup I looks like the Massive part took care of that. I'm using a wetsump pan, AT Power throttle bodies and low cam cover from Tom. The engine looks really good inside and out. Original plugs came out looking nice, no sludge or any signs of trouble. I don't want to spend any unnecessary time fooling with the engine at this point. The only hint of a problem I found was a sign of a small water leak around the area in the center of the cam cover. Two middle plugs had some rust and water stains. I plan on using stock injectors and fuel rail. I might use the Crower street cams another $500 I hadn't planned on. This is gonna be a street driven autocross car, very basic, very light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemk1 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 That sounds like fun. What class will you run it in? have fun! dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltermitty Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 I don't know. There is another local Birkin, hot 2.0, sequential gearbox and live axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Better budget for a big set of sticky slicks if you are going to run in EMod. When I autoxed, Dmod was 2.0 L and under and Emod was over 2.0L . But that was ages ago. Your region might have different classes now. But that was the old SCCA rule when I ran. Good luck. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemk1 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Better budget for a big set of sticky slicks if you are going to run in EMod. When I autoxed, Dmod was 2.0 L and under and Emod was over 2.0L . But that was ages ago. Your region might have different classes now. But that was the old SCCA rule when I ran. Good luck. Tom The SCCA national rules are still the same....DM is limited to 2.0L and when you go above that you need to run in EM. The tough part is that you need to meet the minimum weight for EM which in most cases will mean a lot of ballast. As I recall the min weight on a Seven type DM is 1420 lbs and for EM it's 1750 lbs. I would expect this means that one would need to add about 300 lbs. I've not tried to do it but i should think that is would be pretty tough to find a place to put 300 lbs of anything in a Birkin. I wonder if you can just bump yourself up to AM to be fair to those running in DM and/or PAX? I'll bet the 2.5 L will be really fun where ever you run it. dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltermitty Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 This is mostly a fun car. I'm not really competitive so it doesn't matter what class I run in. Tom got me a stock non-VCT intake. There is some machining that needs to be done on the head to make it fit the low profile cam cover that I need to clear the bonnet with the slightly taller 2.5/2.3 engine. I am running Toyo 195/50-15 R888R on Enkie 7x15s 9.8 lb wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) You are way under tired. No wonder you aren't competitive. Get some 10 inch slicks. Seriously. Good luck. Tom Edited March 8, 2017 by yellowss7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Several years ago, Del Long ran his Seven in DM and them bolted 300lbs of sheet steel to the bottom of the car to make EM weight at Nationals. I don't know how he finished that year but he is always competitive. I think he had four bolts set then drove the car over the plate, jacket it up, added the nuts and drove off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Several years ago, Del Long ran his Seven in DM and them bolted 300lbs of sheet steel to the bottom of the car to make EM weight at Nationals. . Now that's lowering the CG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Tom, I fixed your post for you. You are way under tired, Tom. Yes you are. :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Hi Shane, I forgot about that shot. Your storker tires made my 10 inch slicks look puny. Cool pic with my yellow car and not yet mine, Orange in the background. How's your rebuild going? Any chance you'll be able to join us at NJMP this year??? We miss Suave. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Hi Shane, I forgot about that shot. Your storker tires made my 10 inch slicks look puny. Cool pic with my yellow car and not yet mine, Orange in the background. How's your rebuild going? Any chance you'll be able to join us at NJMP this year??? We miss Suave. Tom Tom, We are still unsettled; I'm flying out of NC and still shuffling between here and home. The car is still mothballed in the trailer till we land (somewhere) permanently. Would love to make NJMP, but won't be this year. Suave says howdy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waltermitty Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Wow! The 195s are just the first try. I think I can go a little wider on the 7" wheels. I'm not running any fenders so there isn't much to interfere with. Head is off to Tom to get machined to fit low profile cam cover. I have most of the bits to reassemble the engine here or on the way, ARP flywheel and front hub bolts, new head bolts, etc plus I have all the tools to align/time everything. I am going to use the Racepak dash so I only have that, 2 buttons to control it plus horn button, light switch, turn signal switch and high beam button in dash. I using an ABS pebble finish black panel to cover all the factory holes. Keyed ignition/starter switch and a 12V cigarette lighter socket in the panel above drive shaft tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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