MV8 Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 The rusty lbj bolts looked fine to me, just needing a few seconds with a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the threads and head and a shot of phosphorous and paint, but new oem bolts are even better. I'd use a roloc/red nylon 3m disc or flap sand the pinion flange to remove the rust, then a light coat of phosphorous to dry, then clear satin rustoleum brand aerosol paint with an integral rust preventative. The clear is handy for keeping things rust free and bare aluminum cleaner without concern for overspray. As time progresses, the difference becomes more apparent. Home Depot has gallon concentrate of "metal prep"(phosphorous) that I dilute with water in a spray bottle. Says to wash it off but I've always let it dry and scuffed if needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 14 hours ago, Austin David said: are you using the MSM lower tie rod ends? Hey Austin, I'm not sure what they are. They came supplied with the Westfield kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted May 26, 2022 Share Posted May 26, 2022 The Miata came with two versions, apparently the MSM version is better for lowered suspension. Safe to assume Westfield know what they're doing, I was mostly curious. Thanks for detailing the build, it's interesting to watch in real time. Will be *very* interesting when you select a turbo kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 26, 2022 Author Share Posted May 26, 2022 14 minutes ago, Austin David said: Will be *very* interesting when you select a turbo kit Yes, That is likely to be part 2 of the build once I have the car safety checked, registered and on the road. During this part I want to make sure that I have future proofed as much as feasible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 Differential Mounting Bracket This evening I continued to prepare the differential for installation by securing the mounting bracket. First I installed the sleeve. Out came the tools of persuasion again! 🔨 Then, I positioned the mount and inserted the bolts from underneath, leaving the nuts loose for now. I then moved to chassis to inspect the metalastic bushings and install some protection on the rails. It was at this point that I noticed it 🤬...........Any guesses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lg2k Posted May 27, 2022 Share Posted May 27, 2022 Are the diff mounts on the wrong side??? Or maybe they're on both sides but the bushes were only installed on the driver side? Or maybe it's just the brake lines that are in the way. It's been too long since I've built mine. You're making great progress. I had a huge delay on my build because many parts were damaged in shipment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 @lg2k Your second guess is right, there are mounts on both sides but they factory installed the bushings on the drivers side instead of the passenger side!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted May 27, 2022 Share Posted May 27, 2022 Have them send you new bushes to install. Damage to the wrong-side bushings is likely if you try to remove them for re-installation on the other side. I'd leave them as-is. To install the new or try to remove the old, use sockets where the OD is the same as the bush outer shell and another bigger than the chassis tube and a foot long threaded rod (3/8" if it will fit)with washers and nuts that will fit through the socket centers. Jamb two nuts and oil the threads on the other end. Oil the bore and the shell. You could use a large C clamp as an alternative to the threaded rod. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 @MV8 thanks for the help. I have emailed Manik to have some new ones sent through! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 So, I'm in a bit of a holding pattern re-following the build manual while I wait for Westfield to rectify my issues. I should hear back from them today or tomorrow regarding my list once they have finished investigating the front control arm mystery. In the meantime I might as well start re-assembling this mess and freeing up some valuable space in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 Cylinder Head Assembly Finally made a start on the cylinder head assembly this week. Earlier in the spring I took the head to my machinist to have it inspected. With 234000 on the clock it was slightly out of spec so I had the head surface skimmed by 10 thou and the valve seats re-cut for new valve kit that I purchased. Nice clean head. Before starting the assembly I decided to re tap the bolt holes in the head to ensure that that any gunk inside the threads was removed. Then after giving the head another good clean I started to install my nice shiny new parts. I replaced all the old valves and springs with a completely new set up from Supertech. Valves and springs Seats, Retainers and keepers The new valve stem seals were genuine Mazda parts. With everything in order I set up a little assembly line on my work bench to clean, lube and install the parts. Valves and seals first Then seats, springs and retainers. I made my own tool to compress the springs out of a clamp and a socket. Worked very well for installing the keepers. The first one took a while to do, as i've never done anything like this before. But once I got into a rhythm the rest came together nicely. That's all for tonight. Tomorrow I'll continue with the intake valves. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Did you lap in the new valves or at least check the seat? Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) Hey Graham, good point, no I didn’t. I asked my machinist to do that, but perhaps I should take a look before I put the intake valves in. Edited June 16, 2022 by DanM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 There are lots of Youtube videos on the subject, but a felt tip pen will give you a good idea. Graham 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 sorry if I missed this from a previous post ... are you doing a vanilla 1.6 rebuild, or are you rebuilding it a little more perky? Sounds like you're sticking with standard valves & springs ... same cam arrangement too? are you able to (do you have space to) re-route the cooling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) At this point its mainly a vanilla 1.6 build with some minor enhancements. Here are some examples: Super Tech Springs Boundary - billet oil pump Gates - water pump Coolant re-route Weisco Pistons (20 thou over - I had a ridges in the cylinders) Head skim 10 thou (To bring surface back into spec.) Valve Seats re-cut to spec Mega squirt ECU Edited June 16, 2022 by DanM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Did the machinist grind the valves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) No, he did not. He cut the seats and tested them for fitment. Edited June 16, 2022 by DanM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 If they are cut on a machine to the right spec, then there is no need to lap valves - new car engines aren’t lapped either… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 Since the valves were not skimmed, I would lap a couple intake valves to see how much work it is to remove the marker on the seat with a dab of grinding compound on the valve. I suggest the wood dowel suction cup rather than a suction cup on a drill. Get campy like you are trying to start a fire, rotating the dowel against opposite palms. Oil or barely grease the stem where it will be in the guide. Never hurts to check the machinists work. I would expect a great deal more care and more eyes ensure machining setup is correct on a production run than on piece-meal work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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