My 1995 Caterham S3 X-Flow Emotional Support Vehicle "Beater" refresh and other journeys down the rabbit hole

[IamScotticus]

Not a victim,  I'm just dumb.

Edited December 7, 2023 by IamScotticus

[IamScotticus]

Been out of action dealing with the Houston Tornado and four days power outage. 

Our area was hit with >70mph cross winds.

The 7 is alright.   We're OK.  Worst part is the cold shower and no CPAP.  If I had to choose, I'd keep the CPAP.

 

Edited May 22 by IamScotticus

[pethier]

17 minutes ago, IamScotticus said:

If I had to choose, I'd keep the CPAP.

 

I hear you.

[pethier]

On 3/24/2023 at 7:48 PM, IamScotticus said:

I have this:

 

But this is growing on me:

 

 

OK, I know its a graphic rendering to imitate bare alu.   But its growing on me.

 

I don't have to preach about the maintenance of bare alu, you know.  But there's more I dislike about bare alu than just the maintenance.

For one, I don't want to look like an experimental airplane project.  For another, there are many flaws and defects in my panels, even a streak across my bonnet I can't polish out.  My build spec was a race car after all, those cars probably got some cast-offs to keep the price down.  Who knows.

Im thinking a nice rattle can coat of light grey would be a start.  No, I have no intention on taking my Beater to a professional paint job.  It has to be  a paint I can apply, touch up, take off, do repairs, reapply and blend in myself with something readily available or better left alone.

My Criteria:

-A color supported by a manufacturer for a very long time

-Supply available almost everywhere, or a close substitute can easily be obtained

-No, I don't want black

-Be confusingly similar to a brushed alu appearance from a distance

 

So far, the thing I am looking for is a light gray primer that bonds to metal, preferably more removable than an etching primer, of which most Ive seen are green.

 

Any suggestions?

Sarcasm is always welcome!

 

 

My car is painted Ford Moonstone Blue, and a guy at an autocross at first thought part of the car was aluminum.  FMB is a nice color, but too-easily-confused with asphalt when seen (or not seen) by other drivers on the street.  I'm thinking of leaving all the metal FMB and doing all the fiberglass in Caterham Yellow.

[IamScotticus]

4 hours ago, pethier said:

doing all the fiberglass in Caterham Yellow.

How about yellow or gold stripes?  Doable with wraps now.

[IamScotticus]

We got power back today!

But the 7s garage will still be hot 🥵

Looking for cooling options.

No swamp coolers due to the extra humidity they add.

No mini split as there is no way to hide the exhaust ducts.

It may have to be an improvised window unit with exhaust in the attic.  Hip roof, no gable.

Edited May 21 by IamScotticus

[MV8]

I'm confused because minisplit don't have ducts, just an air handler/evaporator for each space. Why can't you have ducts in the attic or along  outside corners of a low ceiling? Don't forget the vapor barrier for condensation control and another layer of insulation to reduce it.

Hip roof can have exhaust fans, continuous ridge vent exhaust, and fully open/screened/perforated soffits to pull ambient into roof.

 

Build second floor, but stay downstairs or bury house a few feet would be the most efficient way.

Edited May 21 by MV8

[vipergeek]

I also am confused about the mini-split ducts.  I installed a 2 ton unit in my garage with the outside unit on the driveway garage wall.  It was not a difficult install as the assistance I needed was lifting the evaporator unit up on the wall while threading the line set through the exterior wall.  I also needed help from my next door neighbor lifting the 150ish pound outside unit onto the wall mounting rack about 2.5 feet off the ground.  During a bout of 12-14 degree days this past winter my garage was 65 degrees and I wasn't pushing the unit hard at all.  I did add some rather "high end" insulation to my garage door (Stop the Snirt) at the bottom and the exterior sides and top of the door.  I also installed a rubber gasket at the inside top edge of the door that seals the gap at the top when the door closes.  It's starting to warm up now and it's set at 72 degrees and working very nicely.  Pioneer 2 ton unit shipped free for a little over $2K.  It was also a good excuse to add to my tool collection.

Edited May 22 by vipergeek

[pethier]

7 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

How about yellow or gold stripes?  Doable with wraps now.

I want big blocks of bright color.  This is not complicated.  "Here's a big chunk of fiberglass..  Make it all yellow."

[IamScotticus]

Well,

Going through my parts, I found a 2.0 Pinto flywheel and a 1x23 green spring Pinto disc.  

Now I am wondering, for my T9 conversion, If I should go all the way with a Pinto pressure plate and starter?

Staying 100Hp and possibly lower with the Xflow.

I also have 1x23 Xflow 7.5" discs.

[pethier]

On 5/21/2024 at 11:15 AM, pethier said:

My car is painted Ford Moonstone Blue, and a guy at an autocross at first thought part of the car was aluminum.  FMB is a nice color, but too-easily-confused with asphalt when seen (or not seen) by other drivers on the street.  I'm thinking of leaving all the metal FMB and doing all the fiberglass in Caterham Yellow.

Yeah.  I did it.

 

[IamScotticus]

On 8/23/2024 at 2:39 PM, pethier said:

Yeah.  I did it.

 

Damn, your car is nice, bro.

I'm thinking of painting my alu.  It would have to be a a colour easily touched up and available, like a long running rattle can colour.

[pethier]

4 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

Damn, your car is nice, bro.

I'm thinking of painting my alu.  It would have to be a a colour easily touched up and available, like a long running rattle can colour.

Yes, I got a new RR fender from Caterham in Firecracker Yellow gelcoat.  Took it and all the other fiberglass parts to the body shopand had them scan the new fender.  They mixed paint to match.  They painted all the other parts and returned the gelcoat part unchanged.  In retrospect I imght have been well-served to scrounge a new fender in any color and have them all painted a more-common-in-USA yellow.  

 

More to your question:  Some years back, a Menards guy in Indiana sold me some white paint for my trailer to cover bare aluminum spots where stickers had been removed Rust-Oleum brand WATER-BASED spray cans.  He said the stuff sticks well to bare aluminum.  Well, it seems to.  Maybe a grey version of that is what you seek.

 

I keep the stuff in my trailer.  Remind me tomorrow.  I need to get the trailer for something else.

Edited August 25 by pethier
WATER-BASED

[pethier]

18 hours ago, pethier said:

Some years back, a Menards guy in Indiana sold me some white paint for my trailer to cover bare aluminum spots where stickers had been removed Rust-Oleum brand WATER-BASED spray cans.  He said the stuff sticks well to bare aluminum.  Well, it seems to.  Maybe a grey version of that is what you seek.

[7Westfield]

Scott

 

2 liter flywheel won't fit a 1600

it bolts up, but just a bit larger ring gear, so you can't get the starter in

[IamScotticus]

13 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

Scott

 

2 liter flywheel won't fit a 1600

it bolts up, but just a bit larger ring gear, so you can't get the starter in

Not even if using a Pinto bell housing? I have one. Starter position 4 o'clock. 

Edited August 27 by IamScotticus

[7Westfield]

don't know

I used a Burton BH3

starter about 4 o'clock on intake side

just checked pegasus--both have 110 teeth, but 2L ring gear is 10.12" ID     1600 is 10

So, I wonder what this flywheel I have came from...it measures up as a 2L, but has 135 teeth

Edited August 27 by 7Westfield

[IamScotticus]

2025 to be the year I get my arse in gear and get that 7 going.  Right.

 

First on my list is to take my Kent lump to an engine man and throw money at him.

No. 

I must pull up my grease-less sleeves and do it myself.  It is a very simple engine after all.

 

Therefore, we must begin with some planning.  Plan one is how to properly clean this lump.  It's not all that dirty.  A coat of greasy dirt is good.  it's just sat for 13 years with a nice DexCool sludge to Gunk it up.  This coolant jacket needs an enema and I don't really trust a common radiator flush.  Not for this.

 

I have done my time.  Some have served in the military scrubbing floors with toothbrushes; I washed pot and and pans (and knives) at restaurants.  I know the three compartment sink well.  I believe that with three, more or less, plastic utility sinks and the right processes, and an air compressor, I can have a system down that gives me a lump ready for hole chasing, deck work and paint with a good chance I don't screw it up.   Soft techniques only.  

 

Crazy idea #1:  The death by electrocution.  If you haven't seen this one, you haven't been on YouTube.  Tub of water, add baking soda, add metal plate, connect battery charger, sizzle for a day, and the electrolysis will do its magic.

 

 

Crazy idea #2: The meth lab. 

Metal container, water, add degreaser, put on a propane burner, scrub a little, talk to the police after the door, and hoist out a squeaky clean lump.  The aluminum parts really like this one.

 

Crazy idea #3:  The pickling.

A few good rust and scale removers to choose from.  Evaporust, CLR, plain vinegar, thay all work.  Add a water pump for circulation and even better,  a filter system. 

 

Crazy idea #4:

Ok, it's not a crazy,  but it is the thing that is keeping me from moving forward with any cleaning method, preventing the flash rust.  I could do a thorough rinse of WD40 or other anti corrosion solution.   But I want something that will dry to handle, won't run or evaporate off, and is easily removed for paint and assembly.  Maybe WD40 is that.

 

Well, my goal will be to have a short time from bath to plugs in to paint to assembly.  All in the comfort of knowing that some klutz at a machine shop won't have his clueless hands on it.  Not to offend,  I didn't say "careless", I said "clueless" because engine shop man probably won't know what trouble he will have to go through to replace a Kent engine if he damaged it.  And, I would have him guarantee a replacement.

No, I can't just pluck one from a Pinto or Bobcat. Not the same.

 

To be continued...

Edited November 5 by IamScotticus

[IamScotticus]

Today was very busy for old Beater.  And me.  Why do I choose a day to start Teardown, bag & tag, when I'm in a post surgical boot from toe surgery and had taken the truck to a shop for a coolant leak, taken to the rental car, declined the rental car for $50/day +ins.  Uber home wirh a lesson about communist Vietnam (you can buy land and property but the government can take it away for any reason,  but they pay you market value, etc.  A scooter, a house and a Buffalo and you're good.)

Then I realize I had better start wrenching.

 

Today was windscreen, alternator, exhaust, and test fit the 5 port dry sump (DS) pump and the DS engine mount.  The edge of the pump came within 1/4" of the mount,

 

This will be expanded as l found the mount to be 1/4" too short necessitating a spacer between the mount and engine. 

I think I will have my welder buddy attach a plate to the back of the mount and drill the holes through. Then repaint.  It's probably powdercoated.  It will be fun watching the aircraft remover let me peel that off like hot taffy.  I hate powder coat.

 

But all that stuff was easy.  The near disaster task was removing the wind screen (WS).  This is near disaster territory because if not done well with the appropriate precautions, the scuttle, AND YOU, will have new artwork to live with.  Every day like a brick on your face. 

 

With lessons learnt from the past, here is advice for the intrepid.

 

Firstly, realize the WS assembly,  when tightened down, is under tension.  This is either design carelessness or English genius.  Designed to take the buffeting and stresses of the wind at speed, the tension provides the rigidity to withstand it and not shake apart.  This tension is good in its place, not good when trying to install or remove the WS as there are scuttle panel angles that will be in conflict with the stanchion angles. The WS assembly is twisted in the tightening process, providing the tension.   The screw bases in the frame sides are soft metal, I believe,  and prone to damage if tightened under tension, thread damage can occur.

 

When assembling the WS and stanchions,  you will notice that if you tighten the upper frame screws, (you should have attached the hinges first) the upper sides are perpendicular to the WS frame, then the lower stanchion triangles will not be parallel to the scuttle panels and the triangles will gouge the scuttle, should you try to set it on as such.  I suppose it can be done with a friend on the other side to pull the triangle back and place the rubber strip correctly.  But we are usually doing these things alone in our splendid isolation, perfectly at peace in our task, oblivious to the world.  Until one of two things break the tranquility...  the wife screeching over the dishes not being done, or the windscreen crashing down into the cockpit,  scratching up the once pristine scuttle.  Or both at the same time.  This is why you should not have any cats anywhere near while you are working.  Or wives.

 

Anyway, I will suggest that the assembly and disassembly are similar in that three things are necessary:

1) masking tape and paper.  Tape and paper the area to prevent scratches, especially under the stanchions,  you can remove it before you tighten it down.

2) assemble loose.  Do not tighten bolts until WS is in place.  Upper frame first, lower triangle second. 

3) wood pegs. No, not your nickname in High-school.    wood rods to insert into the lower stanchion holes to keep the thing from falling over.  These are easily inserted or removed with one hand while the other hand holds the screen.  These, and tape across the top is your third hand.  You need friends that do what they are supposed to do. 

 

Removal...

This being a hand fitted car, the WS is perhaps the worst of it.  Removing is easy.  Put tape across the top to help hold it up and loosen the lower triangle bolts first, then loosen the upper six WS frame screws (because you had relieved the tension below), insert a dowl in a lower hole or it may be stable as is. Repeat evenly on both sides until stanchions are loose. 

Then place sheets of paper under the triangles so you can lift the assembly up without scratches. Hopefully. 

 

Assembly is very similar with the added complication of the rubber trim (RT). 

 

Problems....

 

Older kits used to come with Oval stanchion holes that allow for height adjustment and stanchions were bolted to the scuttle with fender washers inside. 

Then Caterham made the WS brackets that sit inside the scuttle,  bolted to the frame rail.  These give the WS added strength, but they don't allow  adjustability should you find the WS not matching the curvature of the scuttle.  This happens when WSs And scuttles from different eras are mixed. 

 

In my case, the later WS is so tight against my early scuttle,  there is no room for the rubber strip.  This was not expected last time I tried fitting the WS and I couldn't compress the WS and RT low enough to engage the stanchion bracket threads.  I removed the RT and all lined up, but the WS sits on the scuttle, no gap.  

 

What I didn't try was any heat technique.  I have since learned that the use of a heat gun to soften the RT till pliable is the technique.  How to protect a painted scuttle when doing this?  I don't know.  I would test on a loose piece of RT to see what heat level it takes. If the hot setting of a common hair drier is sufficient,  I doubt any additional paint protection is required, but may be necessary for a wrap.  If a heat gun is used, perhaps the RT should be softened on the WS frame prior to placing on the scuttle.

 

Alternatively, I can space the brackets higher.  The scuttle holes will need extending.

I think the combination of both will work nicely next time I fit the screen.

 

I need a new alternator.

Have a good day y'all. 

Edited November 14 by IamScotticus

[wdb]

Wow. And I was planning to pop my windscreen off to try out the brooklands screen that came with my car. If all that is involved just to remove and install it, ugh.

 

Is there anything to be gained by installing the stanchions and the glass separately? As for softening the rubber strip, I once put a windshield in a Mini Cooper by immersing the rubber surround in boiling water for a few minutes prior to install. Wear gloves.

 

I'll get a picture of my oil pump vis-a-vis the engine mount. I don't recall it being a tight fit there. The oil line that arcs over it, up and back to the filter, was a bit of trick though. The hose ends are not fixed; they have a built-in swivel joint. I added a wee bit of length to the hose to encourage it to swivel upwards enough to clear the mount. (That was the hose I ended up making twice.)