Ford Axle weld on bracket kit

[Vinman1]

Hey all,

Looking for a weld on bracket kit (shock, radius arm, and A frame mounts) for a live axle Seven. 

Happy & safe New Years to all,

V

[MV8]

I'd be surprised if a kit exists though I have seen reinforcing kits. The damper/arm brkt clamps on with ubolts. Maybe someone with one can provide a few measurements for the brkts and the A frame attachment. Chima's car has a great looking attachment that looks lower than original.

http://www.britishracecar.com/CraigChima-Lotus-Seven.htm

[IamScotticus]

For an Escort axke?

[Vinman1]

I believe it is a Cortina axle. The axle came with all the parts from the barn the car was in forty years. I need to relocate the welded on brackets to resolve a clearance issue. Was hoping to get new brackets rather than trying to cut and reuse the existing. Fast Sevens used to have them but his supplier stopped making them, so reaching out to hopefully find new source or somebody who would want to manufacture / supply them again.

[MV8]

Ready for arts and crafts? Anybody can make them if you can make the patterns by direct measurement or test fit cardboard. Trying to reinstall cut off brackets is a lot more work. It is much easier to make an accurate pattern for each piece out of cardboard as if it were metal. Cereal box or pizza box works fine. Plenty of that to practice with until you get the hang of it. The cardboard should match exactly what you want in metal.

Do not try to drill perfect holes in the CB. Hold the CB parallel to the actual brkt on the axle, then mark the CB through the holes in the actual brkt. Wobble the sharpie around to try and make a circle on the CB that you can find the center of. You can also fit the hardware in the actual brkt to make an impression in the CB.

Once satisfied with the CB fit on both ends of the axle that the hardware will fit perfectly, measure the thickness of the original brkts. I suspect the flanges to be 0.125-0.185".

As for the spacers, good close pics from various angles and dial caliper measurements are needed for all the od and id. I can make them if you don't have anyone local but it can only be as good as your patterns and dims. Frankly, it isn't that critical since the hardware is just a clamp. Nothing is spinning or precisely reamed.

Speedway motors sells all sorts of universal brkts for 3 inch axle tube.

 

When ready to remove, a cutting torch or handheld bandsaw can get most of it followed by an angle grinder. A friction disc will take a long time and will still need grinding.

Edited December 30, 2022 by MV8

[Christopher smith]

I thought the Chima info said it was a Sprite type ( Nash metropolitan or an old A40 like the one I have in my 1959 series 1). But he seems to have a lower A frame lateral location a bit like the series 2 had with their TR-10 axles which always cracked unless modified ( by the way- I have an old stock Tr10 casing I want to give away)- I am sticking with my series 1 set-up that has a very different lateral location approach.. Looks like a great set-up from the photos. It also said his axle had the double bearing modification ( like most Sprite racers have used). The Escort and Cortina axles would be quite different dimensions and reinforcement design I guess.

[fastg]

If you looking to keep originality I understand, but if you want a good light strong axle look to the early RX-7. If you get the GSL-SE model they come with disk brakes and a LSD. They are not a popular item so they can be picked up cheap. I used one got it complete for $75. 

 

Graham 

[Christopher smith]

probably a good idea but watch for bolt pattern. I think Mazda used 5x4.5 (114.3 mm) while some escorts used 4x100 mm. I swapped in an old Cortina rear into my Sunbeam Alpine for FP class SCCA long ago. Easy swap and Detroit Locker came with it. Not sure but wheel adapters may be overly stressed in real racing action so please be careful.

 

[craig chima]

If your search doesn't turn up anything useable, I do lots of rear housings (Ford, BMC, TR, etc) for both street and race cars.  Ford housings are easily the strongest (and heaviest) but will still distort when welding brackets onto them but I have jigs for all types and can straighten after fab work is done if needed.   I just need location of pickup points and the height off the housing for centerline of bolt holes.   PM or email if you need assistance.  Craig Chima, CC motorsports, Akron, OH

[Vinman1]

Thanks all. Redline is going to check on the kit when they return on 1/3/23. I am hoping that I can cut and re-weld without distorting the axle since the square tube brace is in place. I do have access to a truing bar if needed. Might be easier to buy a Ford axle housing all set up, and put in my pig and axles if there are any out there.?

 

Happy New year to all,

 

V

[EdWills]

On 12/29/2022 at 4:26 PM, Vinman1 said:

Hey all,

Looking for a weld on bracket kit (shock, radius arm, and A frame mounts) for a live axle Seven. 

Happy & safe New Years to all,

V

 

[EdWills]

Hello Vinman1.

 

Not sure if you heard back from Redline, but a company in the U.S. called Lotus7.com (owned by Tony Ingram - a very helpful and dedicated Lotus 7 parts supplier and constructor), has a kit of parts (brackets) for braze welding on to the various axles used on the 7.  He obtains them from Xtra Special Sevens in the U.K. (Mick Beveridge, also very helpful).  Note: The brackets shown on his site are part assembled together with what appears to be braze welding, and Mig or Tig may be too hot for the brazed joints and blow them out, or weaken the metal.  You could contact Tony or Xtra Special Sevens for a set that do not have any braze welding on them if you prefer mig/tig.  Also, Arch Motors in the U.K. now sells chassis and body parts direct from their establishment, you are not required to purchase via Redline anymore.  Bruce Robinson of Arch advised me of this last year (when I needed some ally pieces) that he is willing to supply parts for genuine Lotus and early Caterham Sevens directly.  Redline will continue to sell all other parts for Lotus and early Caterham Sevens.  You can also check www.anglocanadian7.ca for a list of suppliers.  It may not be completely up-to-date, but a number of suppliers are still in the business of providing for Seven owners.  I believe that by now you may have solved the problem of different bolt centres for your front and rear axles, but Mallock in the U.K. were fond of fitting Ford rear brakes (or discs) to BMC axles, and also provided parts for the Ford axles such as double row bearings.  One of Mr. Arthur Mallock's sons runs/ran the business and may be able to help (if he hasn't retired  by now?)  Cheers

[Vinman1]

Ed,

 

Thank you for the info. Some sources their I did not know about. I am glad to hear Arch will sell parts directly. I spoke with Tony a while back and his supplier for the brackets had retired. I did manage to get a set from John at Simple Sevens though. When I carefully cut the old ones off, they remained usable as well. Ford rear is back in and set up, engine is out to fix clutch issue, but should be back in this week. With the weather changing, looking forward to driving it!

Cheers, V

[Christopher smith]

Just a point to remember for builders of 7s and others--- A part that is braze welded can not later be welded with conventional (MIG/TIG)) since the braze material changes the composition of the steel. You must then repair or replace using braze weld.

 

[Vinman1]

Chris,

 

Thanks for pointing that out. Mine were welded on, not brazed. I believe it was originally done at DSK.