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Nashville 420S Build


biomax

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Finally, after nearly 2 years, our order arrived a few weeks back.  Not sure how I forgot to start a build thread, but better late than never, no?  Anyway, here are a few pictures catching you up on where we've been.  Currently ready to drop in the engine.large.IMG_4030.jpg.41171ce005284bda971d05b7531122b0.jpglarge.IMG_4028.jpg.6bc174ab99f9c13fcbf560c5c8746cd2.jpglarge.IMG_4034.jpg.3009fc1a46ed9b2c5091d9299b0654f5.jpglarge.IMG_4038.jpg.675d7d8ac430feeb70d40778476cb992.jpglarge.IMG_4104.jpg.9e9d6c9ef5a639e4fdd9a55ab486b105.jpglarge.IMG_4107.jpg.28979256d33cce9b84c0ef33396b16fb.jpglarge.IMG_4108.jpg.a15d9c2419b009561684d426e646d23a.jpglarge.IMG_4110.jpg.24f2f2cb84ef259cfe989b3d191e5280.jpglarge.IMG_4119.jpg.6122e6971fcedf1ca388e08bde8ed668.jpglarge.IMG_4159.jpg.d7c55a70276841ddfd2d0da5850f3c90.jpg

Edited by biomax
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Looks good. Good luck with the build.  Admin can confirm but I think if you save the photos as jpg’s they will be directly viewable in the thread vs having to download them.  

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Just added photos to date to my album and updated the thread.  Here are 2 more photos of something that has us stuck and we've moved on for now.  Heater cable.  Manual is designed for RHD so shows a clip and cable wrapping around the heater.  On LHD cable is super long and no way to attach.  Leave it like this? It appears to work.large.IMG_4140.jpg.86a2b813a76df77c2abad362d3d33869.jpglarge.IMG_4142.jpg.15bb9bb775af0b857f92e24edf3f0582.jpg

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And a few other notes:

 

Realized that I received the wrong headlamps and steering wheel. Those have been sent back and are awaiting the correct ones.  Also, I'm researching SPA mirrors and preparing to order the parts to get those incorporated as am sourcing a rear license plate bracket from Rocky Mountain Caterham.  Ordered headsets from the European owner who is making them, and sourcing a car cover as well.  Also sourcing black lug nuts to better match the anthracite wheels.  Lots of moving parts between all the downtime (work).  Thank goodness for all the blogs and Facebook forums with a wealth of information. I realize how I should have spent months reading while waiting on the crates to arrive.  Now we're just playing catchup trying to cram info into our noggins before each day's work!

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The heater cable is the minimum acceptable length for this arrangement. The valve end should be above the control end to minimize the bends/friction.

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17 hours ago, CBuff said:

I went with the dpr mirrors. 
image.thumb.jpeg.365f25242736c94b921b7a1896243402.jpeg

 

the non carbon ones were £45 a piece. Greg at time machines had a few of the car covers 

 

https://parts.dpr-motorsport.com/contents/en-uk/d24.html#p85

 

 

not sure if they have any more in stock. 

 

I didn't realize DPR mirrors came with their nuts ready to attach. I thought I had to buy their adapters and spa mirror separately!  Thanks for helping me figure that out!  

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9 hours ago, MV8 said:

The heater cable is the minimum acceptable length for this arrangement. The valve end should be above the control end to minimize the bends/friction.

 

Sorry - don't follow.  Are you saying that the way I have it is correct?  If not, please clarify.  Thanks!

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Engine dropped in this morning.  Went much easier than I expected.  I had followed instructions from one of the online blogs, but couldn't squeeze it in with cardboard protection.  It's a tight fit for sure, but got it all in - just need to torque everything down tonight after work.

 

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I just wanted to add my experience with the heater valve on my Caterham 310S. I didn't like the routing of the cable and looked into buying a heater valve that was oriented the opposite way. I couldn't find one so decided to try to modify the one that came in the kit. I bent back the tabs and dissembled the valve to see if I could orient the lever in the opposite direction. It turns out that it is doable but it requires a bit of finesse and patience. What I did was use a couple pieces of plastic feeler stock (don't remember the thickness, maybe .010") that I formed to the curvature of the ID of the valve so was able to install the valve while holding the seals in place with the feeler stock. I think I used a bit of Vaseline to help with the install. Then it was just a matter of bending the tabs back over and routing the cable. I drilled a new hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column to keep the cable run as short and direct as possible. One thing that changed was you have to pull the cable to close and push it to open. Other than that it hasn't leaked and has worked fine. Just an option for you, here's a couple photos.

Heater Valve (1).jpg

Heater Valve (2).jpg

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23 hours ago, biomax said:

Sorry - don't follow.  Are you saying that the way I have it is correct?  If not, please clarify.  Thanks!

No, loop over to reach the valve, not under.

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5 minutes ago, MV8 said:

No, loop over to reach the valve, not under.

Oh - so keep valve per the instructions and loop the cable. Gotcha!  Thanks!

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There is another 7 in Nashville. He's on Instagram, I think it's Nashville420r or something. He may be a good resource for you.

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Heater is now fixed, engine bolted in and accessories reattached.  Started putting in the dry sump tank, radiator & expansion tank and ran into trouble. 

 

First, I do not have the 2 brackets to attach the radiator to the frame.  From various blogs, it seems to be a recent change - the manual reflects the old method.  I've reached out to Caterham to get the brackets shipped asap.  

 

Anyone know the torque specs on the dry sump tank?  

 

Also, the expansion tank has me baffled.  I got the bracket riveted to the frame.  And the tank mounted to the bracket.  But cannot figure out how to attach the tank bracket (gold) to the bracket (black).  The manual shows a bolt with no nut.  I can get the bolt to go all the way through the gold bracket and into the black one, but it's not secure.  Do I just use a nut?  Which one?  Thanks!

 

large.IMG_4186.jpg.569b79a0a516cb9cea34b41e8654974f.jpg

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It looks to me like the brkts bolt together first with a captive nut on the riveted plate, then the tank is added last.

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11 minutes ago, MV8 said:

It looks to me like the brkts bolt together first with a captive nut on the riveted plate, then the tank is added last.

Looks that way -but no nut as part of the plate.

 

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Take the bolt to Home Depot and match up a nut out of the bins that will screw on by hand, note the thread size, but buy the nyloc version in the hanging bags. If you cannot find that, find a bin bolt the same thickness and length along with a nyloc nut.

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