Timberline Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 Hello Everyone! I've got a 420S SV kit on the train arriving in Seattle next week! Words cannot describe how excited I am to finally have parts in hand. Hopefully, these parts are mostly correct enough to start down the build path. I look forward to learning throughout the process and meeting some of the passionate locals. The garage and tools are prepped: coffee for the small problems, porter for the large problems, and scotch for when things come together fantastically or terribly. Thanks in advance for any snag help and advise on the journey. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 12 minutes ago, Timberline said: The garage and tools are prepped: coffee for the small problems, porter for the large problems, and scotch for when things come together fantastically or terribly. Based on that description, my advice is to not underestimate the amount of porter and scotch you will need on hand. I see the 620 dash setup. What is the rest of the spec? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 Within the toy, you caught the biggest bell and whistle of the build. Everything else is required due to my height: SV Large Chassis Lowered Floors 620 Style Carbon Dash 13 Inch Apollo Wheels Quick Release Momo Battery Master Cutoff Switch Trackday Roll Cage Full Weather Gear and Carpets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 Nice spec! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 (edited) is that 620 dash (with all the switches) the reason I have about a million extra wires and unused (but terminated) connectors under my dash scuttle, and maybe half that many under the hood bonnet? nice color scheme, that's gonna be pretty sweet on the road Edited September 6 by Austin David s/dash/scuttle/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 There is a separate sub-loom used for the 620 dash. Mine was on backorder for so long, that I finally cut into the 420 version when redoing my dash. From what I saw doing that work, it appears Caterham uses one harness for all (most of?) their cars and markets, some of which have specific requirements like a low brake fluid warning light test switch. From a production perspective it makes sense, as they only need to stock one loom rather than quite a few. And it removes one more thing they can screw up when putting together a kit But it certainly adds weight, and complexity when trying to trace everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted September 27 Author Share Posted September 27 Kit delivery day! Just like Christmas, but with more crates and cardboard boxes. After getting enough of the boxes unpacked, I spread out all the parts on the floor of the garage. This was mostly for fun, but also to get acquainted with all the parts in person. Feels a little like meeting a celebrity; I've seen these parts so much in pictures from other builds, but now they are here! Tomorrow I hope to shelve and store the parts and maybe add one to the chassis 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 First day of building update. Not news, but the front end bolt placement is really as bad as everyone says it is. Fun tip, the Caterham Car boxes are a good size to support the lower arms. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Well, I made my first (known) mistake. I missed the wide track bushes on the upright install on the first side because I didn’t know the SV was automatically a wide track. Had to rent a puller as I got the force mate really far on there. Paused my front end progress, so I took the time to install the heater. Picture update with them corrected! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 And… first big concern of the build. After removing the starter, I could see rust on the flywheel teeth. With the bell housing off, it’s on every tooth. How much of a concern is this for the car? Secondary, there are two fitting bolts and one alternator bolt that have lots of rust. Thinking about swapping them. Are they grounding fasteners or something? These just really stood out among all the shiny brand new parts ✨ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBuff Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 Don’t have insights on fly wheel rust for operation. Since my car was new in June I have been tackling some surface rust issues. My coil cover bolts looked similar to your alternator. I replaced them. I am proactively doing some rust prevention on the underside. And the grot traps. Settled on crc. It leaves a yellowish film but seems to be well received https://a.co/d/irGFiMD also am going to paint portions of the diff. Seems like caterham grinds down the stock bmw diff housing in certain spots. But doesn’t paint them. Will grind it down and paint those areas with por 15 top coat. https://por15.com/products/top-coat?variant=39607017504935¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&campaign_id=18079280352&ad_id=&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3vO3BhCqARIsAEWblcB-t0V5wM_DxR6_7323rBNvfo-ewPcDzFOalJJwbExk9oppEM9UUigaAjLdEALw_wcB&utm_term=&ad_group_name=&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=18079280352&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC-VAHXlmBFrXN2p_PmH8H_UWjqZF 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted October 3 Author Share Posted October 3 Thanks for the reply! And I’ll look into finishing the bare differential surfaces. The really odd thing is that everything is brand new. And just those three bolts have rust. I’ll get over it and buy some replacement bolts. I used acf 50 for the inside of the skin panels. It flashes off to clear and looks nice, thought it’ll need reapplication I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 It looks like you also received the no cost rust option. I'm pretty sure Caterham views this as added character. As per the photo below, my engine came with rust on the clutch, pressure plate, and a portion of the flywheel (look closely at the bottom of the photo.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 My 2021 order came with a new motor dated 2017. A 420 would be fresher but these just don't sell that fast. I too had some funny rust I wasn't expecting... After a few miles and rainstorms it seemed to matter less... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 That's the problem with these fancy new engines and their functioning oil seals. On a classic British engine rust is one problem you don't often have thanks to the fine coat of oil everywhere. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 (edited) Most non-oem mfg parts or replacement parts do not offer any rust protection or if painted, not the highest quality. Socket head screws are normally black oxide coated which is not much better than bare. Those look bare. I'd use a bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean up the fasteners and flywheel teeth, then rustoleum rattle can satin clear most everything (including the pressure plate). Potential overspray is not an issue and the paint fills the metal surface so dirt clean up is easier. If I pre-treat, metal prep sold at Home Depot in gallons is mixed 2 or 3 parts water to prep (phosphorus) in a universal pump bottle. May take a couple light sprays over a couple days for the rust to go away. I let it dry and spray. I suggest having a jar of copper anti-sieze for most of the fasteners. It has a metal cap with an integral brush and should outlast you unless you are a mechanic. Costs about $12. I have a jar of nickel anit-sieze for exhaust fasteners. It is essentially oil with the appropriate powdered aluminum, copper, or nickel. Edited October 3 by MV8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 Mine was way rustier. Runs fine. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBuff Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 Dremel with a polishing ball the "collars" where the axels comes out of the diff. Then coated in CRC. We will see how long it lasts. Will get more aggressive on the spots that were ground down on the diff housing and then paint those areas with POR 15 Top Coat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timberline Posted October 3 Author Share Posted October 3 Thanks for all the comments! Charging forward towards engine load! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBuff Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 I like the child labor. Sorry I cant offer much technical expertise. But my 420R was just completed (factory built as I dont have the space). Happy to poke around and take any photos of how mine was put together (60% sure its correct). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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