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Posted

Mine is secured with twisted safety wire.

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

So I came up with a nice little lanyard set up.  But when I tried to loosen one of the main bolts holding the windscreen, it felt as though it “stripped” or spun.  Is there some trick to engaging this bolt?

Edited by Xhilr8n
Posted

These can be tricky. The windscreen stanchions are under load with the rubber strip and the nature of the design.  The threads on the bolt will start to engage with the stanchion and not with the inner nut. leading to that feeling like it’s engaging but then not (stripped). And if you’re not careful will eventually strip the nut
 

You can do this job with one person but I suggest a helper for the first few times to pull or push the windscreen into position while you line up the stanchion and retaining hole/bolt.  Making sure you are as lined up as possible and the bolt is engaging the nut not the stanchion frame.  I also get them all engaged but loose and then tighten them down.  If you keep installing them with the stanchion loaded it will eventually tap the stanchion opening which makes this even harder.  
 

fear not.  Once you do it a few times the dynamics are pretty straightforward and you can do it solo. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

If you must go it alone,  try supporting the wind screen with wide painters tape from the top of the screen to the front of the scuttle bulkhead.  And the bottom edge to thd scuttle to keep ir from slipping.  Let the screen sit on the rubber strip.  Tape and protect all the scuttle area around the stanchion triangles.  

If you have stanchion brackets on the inside of the scuttle, loosen this to allow it to come up to the screen height, then bring the screen down while tightening the brackets back down to the frame.  Warming the rubber with a hair dryer can make it more pliable.

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

Well it’s done.  
 

I just felt around and discovered that the front left nut and washer can be accessed from inside.  Rigged up a short 1/2” socket that would hold the nut while I poked around unsighted.

 

I just restored a bicycle originally custom built for me in 1979.  Used a piece of old cable.  The crimp on looks bad but unless you are reading this you’ll never know.

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Posted

Hmmm. I suffered an electrical fire shortly after purchasing my right-hand-drive series two, and her racing history predated battery cut-offs. Getting to the battery to disconnect it involved getting out of my harness and then four latches and a belt buckle. I also noticed that the fire extinguisher, under the dash on the left side, was hard to deploy. So, I designed my own lanyard that both disconnects the battery and drops the fire extinguisher onto the floor on the passenger (left) side. In the first photograph is the battery disconnect and the red paracord headed for the firewall. The cord has a loop that catches the extinguisher quick-release latch and then ends in the knot in the second photograph just in front of the passenger. The cord can be pulled by the driver without releasing his harness or by someone else on the left side of the car. I test it from time to time, and it works.

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Posted (edited)

Brilliant!

 

Reminds me of when I considered mounting a hammer near the starter on my Rover SD1 with a cord to swing it from driver’s seat.

Edited by Xhilr8n
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Posted
54 minutes ago, Xhilr8n said:

Brilliant!

 

Reminds me of when I considered mounting a hammer near the starter on my Rover SD1 with a cord to swing it from driver’s seat.

 

I could have used that setup on the SU fuel pump on our MGBGT. I once ruined a white dress shirt reaching under there to whack it with the knockoff hammer, after it quit on our way to a wedding.

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