S2 transmission swap

[Captain Tom]

I just purchased a 1962 Lotus 7.  The clutch is virtually impossible to push.  Figure it had a "racing" pressure

plate installed by the last owner.  I would very much like to pull the transmission put a "standard" pressure

plate and clutch in and add a 5 speed transmission.  I am not seeing a way forward for getting the transmission

out.  There does not appear to be enough room to move the engine forward and detach the trans nor does

there seem to be enough room to push the trans aft enough to separate it that way.  My question is how is 

this normally done?  Thanks 

[MV8]

The engine must come out. The trans comes with it. If it were an S4, there would be enough room to separate the two in the car, leaving the trans in-place. Many steps to doing this well. I suggest an adjustable balance lift attachment for the steep angle and possible axial rotation needed. Completely drain fluids. Tunnel cover and shifter out, protect front upper chassis cross member from engine contact/scratching.

 

 

[7Westfield]

 

what engine do you have?

Is the clutch cable or hydraulic?  cables can get very stiff, as can the pedal pivot

Edited November 29, 2025 by 7Westfield

[SENC]

@MV8 nailed it.

 

You might check the master and slave cylinders to confirm they are correct.

[wdb]

I pulled the transmission on my S3 after reading somewhere online that it was possible. 

 

It's possible.

 

Don't do it.

 

I ended up separating the bell housing from the transmisison case in situ, then finagling and wrangling very heavy hunks of iron that were dangling precariously above my physical self, all while the engine hung from a sling contraption that was not as confidence inspiring as it should have been. After all of that I knew there was no way in hell it was going to be a reversible process. Pulling the engine and transmission together is a far simpler task.

[Christopher smith]

I hope all goes well. It is not easy. If it turns out you switch to a different transmission, I might want your old one. Is it hooked up to a 1500 pre-crossflow Ford as in Super 7? Does it have an external slave cylinder? My series 1 , while still in the UK, was converted to take a Cortina 1500 GT ( similar to the Super 7  Cosworth used in Series 2). But I could not find a normal 4 speed that worked, so a Pinto 4 speed was adapted with a concentric slave cylinder using a 3 bolt Saab slave and T.O. bearing. That gave up ( leaked) after some years and I have had the engine out 5 times now trying to get a Saab and now 2 Tilton units to work with no success. So I would want a complete set-up of everything  between the flywheel to the driveshaft yoke.

[Captain Tom]

Christopher thanks for your reply.  Don’t know if I want to turn loose my transmission.  May have a lead on another 4 speed.  Will chase it down and let you know.  I am told my transmission is a close ratio 4 speed.  Engine is a pre cross flow 1504.  Slave cylinder is exposed.  Held in place by a single “circlip”.  

[Christopher smith]

Many thanks for the info. Hope we can both have things sorted out for next season.( too cold here to do anything)

[Captain Tom]

Checked the master/slave cylinder for function they seem to operate correctly.  I will attempt to pull engine and transmission as a unit.  Assume they come out the bottom?

[straightcut]

The engine/transmission are removed from the top.

 

Something like this is handy:

https://obergtiltlift.com/  There are cheaper options at Harbor Freight, but not as slick as Oberg Tilt/Lift.

Edited November 29, 2025 by straightcut

[Christopher smith]

I think all series 1,2 & 3 have a welded in place tube as the front crossmember under the trans so agree, must be pulled out the top at a steep angle probably, unless you yank engine first and then bellhousing/trans combo which is what I do. 

[SENC]

10 minutes ago, Captain Tom said:

Checked the master/slave cylinder for function they seem to operate correctly.  I will attempt to pull engine and transmission as a unit.  Assume they come out the bottom?

Are they the correct sizes?  There are (as with most old Lotus cars) conflicting information on these.  The slave is consistently reported as 3/4", the master as either 3/4" or 5/8".  I have 3/4" on mone, and it is definitely a very stiff pedal.  Others have used a .7" or .625" to reduce pedal pressure required (but needs more pedal travel.

 

 

[7Westfield]

If looking for a 5 speed, AFAIK the only one that fits without a LOT of work is the Ford type 9.  And, it's a fair bit of work. I did it to my Westfield several years ago.

The newer stuff, like a Miata or Mustang/Ranger are too fat.  There are kits to put a Datsun unit in Sprites or Triumphs, but pricey, and you'd be looking for someone to make you a one off.

 

What it took for mine

type 9 box--only ever sent to this country in Merkur xr4ti, and those have the wrong input shaft for  pre-xflow or xflow, it's too long. You can get the correct one from England, but $$$. I shortened mine. Some folks complain about the first gear ratio being too low--there again $ to England.

Burton sells a spacer plate to go between trans + bellhousing if you don't want to shorten it

BH3 bellhousing from Burton Power--put starter on right side, and cut away most of the left side mount to clear footwell

Titan concentric slave from Burton--no room for external slave

new clutch disc to match T-9 splines

use transmission mount from old box, tunnel was not wide enough for the T9 piece

new driveshaft, splines and length different    I got mine from NW Propshafts in England   nobody in this country has the right ends   and I got it in about 5 days

I was able to use the frame mount in the Westy, with a bit of trimming, but don't be surprised at having to weld in a new one, the T9 mount bolts are about 6" farther back

 

 

Charlie

[IamScotticus]

A clutch that sits too long can fuse together.  I have heard of various techniques to break it in situ, but I don't recommend any.  If the car has sat so long, there are probably plenty of other issues to sort out.  Oil seals, clutch surfacing, etc.

[Christopher smith]

Does anyone know which  4 speed gearbox used in the series 2 Super 7 1500 Lotus sourced from? The input splines and diameter and output as well? The Pinto box I have has 1 inch 23 spline input and it was really tough finding a new 7.5 inch ( 190 mm clutch disc) and the pressure plate to fit  but maybe used in an early Mk1 Escort -UK only?- the Pinto took a larger one). The 7.5 set-up bolts up exactly to the 1500 GT flywheel and the bellhousing is a Cortina I think and has a right side starter and a large rectangular opening for an external slave cylinder on the left which I do not have and probably could not adapt to the Pinto box input anyway.

[IamScotticus]

The long shaft 5 spd T-9s are from the V6 Sierras.  I believe the majority of T-9 Cats were these.  They require a 1" aluminum spacer and a bit taken off the tip, maybe 1/4", 2.0 Pinto BH, fork and release bearing.  You can use the 1.6 Kent release bearing with a reduced diamter T-9 front cover/shaft sleeve from Burtons. Also use curly spring spine clutch covers with flat faced release bearings.

Also for a Pinto to Xflow (2.0/1.6) T-9 conversion, you use a special clutch disc that is a 190mm (7.5") 1"x23 spline disc.  Make sure the correct side is facing the FW.  Ensure the top front edge of the T-9 is well sealed from water ingress.  Use a light smear of grease on the clutch shaft splines that is specifically for clutch.  One from Sachs.  Tighten BH bolts equally.  Strap the clutch cable to the fork with zip tie.  

Lots more unwanted advice is available, just PM me.

 

I'm not sure, but I think the 4 spd T-9s with short shafts bolt directly on to a Kent with Pinto BH.  The shifter position will require a remote linkage, like Cat used on the Escort boxes.

 

Edited November 30, 2025 by IamScotticus

[SENC]

The required angle of the dangle...

 

I was doing it alone, would definitely be easier with 2 - lots of little tweaks forward as the engine is lifted and tilted.  Even tougher going back in alone.  A piece of hose (cut lengthwise) helps protect the cross member.  As mentioned above, definitely drain the gearbox first.

 

The English Ford 105e and 116e (and 2821) gearboxes were originally used in Ford Anglias, Consult, and Corsairs, as I recall.  I also believe a number of Morgan's had them fitted.  The same were used in Elans of the period, though with different mounts.  Most parts are still readily available, and rebuilding them is not terribly difficult.  There were, however, changes throughout the line to the shaft, baulk rings, etc. so it is important to identify what tou have before finding replacement parts.  I have some good notes somewhere on the various changes and differences if you go down the rebuild route and have questions.

 

Edited November 30, 2025 by SENC

[Christopher smith]

41 minutes ago, SENC said:

The required angle of the dangle...

 

I was doing it alone, would definitely be easier with 2 - lots of little tweaks forward as the engine is lifted and tilted.  Even tougher going back in alone.  A piece of hose (cut lengthwise) helps protect the cross member.  As mentioned above, definitely drain the gearbox first.

 

The English Ford 105e and 116e (and 2821) gearboxes were originally used in Ford Anglias, Consult, and Corsairs, as I recall.  I also believe a number of Morgan's had them fitted.  The same were used in Elans of the period, though with different mounts.  Most parts are still readily available, and rebuilding them is not terribly difficult.  There were, however, changes throughout the line to the shaft, baulk rings, etc. so it is important to identify what tou have before finding replacement parts.  I have some good notes somewhere on the various changes and differences if you go down the rebuild route and have questions.

 

Did those gearboxes ( some originally column shift maybe?) employ clutch covers with the 3 finger design and maybe ? 190 clutch disc with what spline count? or the newer ones with many fingers  and if so , flat or curled? Maybe the newer ones were Cortina MK1? I am certainly getting something wrong with my newer Saab and or Tilton concentric slave cylinder set-ups. It seems to work fine before starting the engine. Releases and engages multiple times just fine. But with engine running, depressing the clutch pedal a few times and it pushes the T.O.  bearing way too far out and locks in that position somehow. I can then back off the bell housing to block bolts and the fingers push the T.O. and slave cylinder back the way they should be doing. Maybe misaligned?

[SENC]

15 minutes ago, Christopher smith said:

Did those gearboxes ( some originally column shift maybe?) employ clutch covers with the 3 finger design and maybe ? 190 clutch disc with what spline count? or the newer ones with many fingers  and if so , flat or curled? Maybe the newer ones were Cortina MK1? I am certainly getting something wrong with my newer Saab and or Tilton concentric slave cylinder set-ups. It seems to work fine before starting the engine. Releases and engages multiple times just fine. But with engine running, depressing the clutch pedal a few times and it pushes the T.O.  bearing way too far out and locks in that position somehow. I can then back off the bell housing to block bolts and the fingers push the T.O. and slave cylinder back the way they should be doing. Maybe misaligned?

Mine was a 3-finger, and I found a NOS replacement (probably on ebay, but don't remember for sure).  Pictures follow.

 

 

I'll see if I have anything on my phone with detail/part numbers... if not will see what I have in my files next time I'm in my shop.

[Christopher smith]

5 minutes ago, SENC said:

Mine was a 3-finger, and I found a NOS replacement (probably on ebay, but don't remember for sure).  Pictures follow.

 

 

I'll see if I have anything on my phone with detail/part numbers... if not will see what I have in my files next time I'm in my shop.

That sure looks like a different spacer ( dust shield? but similar bolt pattern and dowels to my 122E -6015 block which I thought was a Cortina GT MK1 ( rope seal crank)and thought that was what Cosworth was using back then. Or is yours an earlier 1340 3 bearing maybe?