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Posted (edited)

I'm keeping a new Kent block  new for who knows how much longer... Doing my best to prevent rusting using an enclosure with large renewable desiccant packs to maintain humidity below 30% relative.  so far it's working.  I want to place the block into a heavy duty zip lock bag.  Need recommendations for a suitable bag.  

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted
15 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

I'm keeping a new Kent block  new for who knows how much longer... Doing my best to prevent rusting using an enclosure with large renewable desiccant packs to maintain humidity below 30% relative.  so far it's working.  I want to place the block into a heavy duty zip lock bag.  Need recommendations for a suitable bag.  

 

 

No thats the wrong way to go about it.  I have more than a few spares in long term storage.  

 

First clean all machined surfaces with toulene.

 

Then coat the engine and all exposed surfaces - in and out - with long term corrosion inhibitor.  Use liberally everywhere including inside - boreholes, galleys, etc.  WD40 has a good one.  CRC used to.  There are other brands out there.  Some people use a product that is mostly wax based (edited to add - it was a Waxoyl product - I use in the sills of the Range Rover).  These all seal the metal off from air.  Dessicant bags eventually "fill up" and need replacing so you have to remember doing this.  The coating approach is set and forget.  

 

Wrap it in a trash bag.

 

Place in a specialist engine storage crate or just go to the Container Store (or similar) and buy one of those big plastic crates.  I usually find one with wheels so you can roll it under something to get it out of the way. 

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, Croc said:

 

 

No thats the wrong way to go about it.  I have more than a few spares in long term storage.  

 

First clean all machined surfaces with toulene.

 

Then coat the engine and all exposed surfaces - in and out - with long term corrosion inhibitor.  Use liberally everywhere including inside - boreholes, galleys, etc.  WD40 has a good one.  CRC used to.  There are other brands out there.  Some people use a product that is mostly wax based (edited to add - it was a Waxoyl product - I use in the sills of the Range Rover).  These all seal the metal off from air.  Dessicant bags eventually "fill up" and need replacing so you have to remember doing this.  The coating approach is set and forget.  

 

Wrap it in a trash bag.

 

Place in a specialist engine storage crate or just go to the Container Store (or similar) and buy one of those big plastic crates.  I usually find one with wheels so you can roll it under something to get it out of the way. 

Just a chemistry note--- toluene must be used with good ventilation and the correct gloves. Depending on the refiner it may have some significant benzene content ( as does really high octane petrol sometimes) so breathing and skin absorption must be avoided ( leukemia hazard). Also, consider using pest repellent near the storage area if that might be an issue. Mice ruined a freshly polished, plastic bagged crank one time

  • Like 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, Christopher smith said:

Also, consider using pest repellent near the storage area if that might be an issue. Mice ruined a freshly polished, plastic bagged crank one time

 

I have never had mice eat my engines; electrical wiring, yes all the time, so I have to ask - why did mice find your crank edible?

  • Haha 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Croc said:

 

I have never had mice eat my engines; electrical wiring, yes all the time, so I have to ask - why did mice find your crank edible?

Tough mice out in Philly!

 

Urine causing rust and etching maybe?

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, anduril3019 said:

Tough mice out in Philly!

 

Urine causing rust and etching maybe?

They did not eat it but I think used it as a bathroom and corroded the journals on the crank.

  • Like 1
  • Shocked 1
Posted (edited)

just an FYI, basic WD-40 is NOT a storage spray, it is merely a water dispersent (WD), and actually drives lubricants OFF the surfaces.

(to be honest, WD-40 has no real place in a modern garage).

(second edit: it IS good for removing adhesive from old decals...)

Use a proper engine fogging product internally.

Edited by Ian7
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys for the responses, I never expected it.

I have only used WD40 for an initial light dressing on the machined surfaces, for lack of having anything better and not ready to get it messy.

In the bag I will give it a proper fog and passage flush.  And a proper cleaning before any build.

Its going on top of a steel cart and i will be able to keep basting it as necessary.

Yes, mice will chew on almost anything.

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted
On 9/19/2026 at 4:17 PM, CBuff said:

A bit large.  The block footprint is only around 16 x 1o or so.  The hight is the thing.  need a bag able to withstand some sharp edge scuffing and moving around.

Posted
13 hours ago, Ian7 said:

just an FYI, basic WD-40 is NOT a storage spray, i

 

Good point - I should have been more specific in my initial comment.  I was referring to their corrosion inhibitor product here which is a totally different composition to their standard can stuff.

https://www.wd40.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/

 

 

  • Like 1

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