Need Engine Bag

[IamScotticus]

I'm keeping a new Kent block  new for who knows how much longer... Doing my best to prevent rusting using an enclosure with large renewable desiccant packs to maintain humidity below 30% relative.  so far it's working.  I want to place the block into a heavy duty zip lock bag.  Need recommendations for a suitable bag.  

Edited yesterday at 07:27 PM by IamScotticus

[CBuff]

https://mockins.com/products/30-cu-ft-square-waterproof-cargo-bag-40x40x32?variant=46281667346653&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=22826704975&tw_kwdid=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22816983342&gbraid=0AAAAABhBAKKY8dmc0J7nrE_J6DjKNF0Vi&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5bjVBhCiARIsAJzMVnQevju9JWp90OSImm3Rg75dvFbYYuhZHlem-uz6ypk8Mjks91IRL8gaAm68EALw_wcB
 

maybe something like this.  Might still need to have a liner to extend the dehumidifier packs. 

[Croc]

15 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

I'm keeping a new Kent block  new for who knows how much longer... Doing my best to prevent rusting using an enclosure with large renewable desiccant packs to maintain humidity below 30% relative.  so far it's working.  I want to place the block into a heavy duty zip lock bag.  Need recommendations for a suitable bag.  

 

 

No thats the wrong way to go about it.  I have more than a few spares in long term storage.  

 

First clean all machined surfaces with toulene.

 

Then coat the engine and all exposed surfaces - in and out - with long term corrosion inhibitor.  Use liberally everywhere including inside - boreholes, galleys, etc.  WD40 has a good one.  CRC used to.  There are other brands out there.  Some people use a product that is mostly wax based (edited to add - it was a Waxoyl product - I use in the sills of the Range Rover).  These all seal the metal off from air.  Dessicant bags eventually "fill up" and need replacing so you have to remember doing this.  The coating approach is set and forget.  

 

Wrap it in a trash bag.

 

Place in a specialist engine storage crate or just go to the Container Store (or similar) and buy one of those big plastic crates.  I usually find one with wheels so you can roll it under something to get it out of the way. 

[Christopher smith]

5 hours ago, Croc said:

 

 

No thats the wrong way to go about it.  I have more than a few spares in long term storage.  

 

First clean all machined surfaces with toulene.

 

Then coat the engine and all exposed surfaces - in and out - with long term corrosion inhibitor.  Use liberally everywhere including inside - boreholes, galleys, etc.  WD40 has a good one.  CRC used to.  There are other brands out there.  Some people use a product that is mostly wax based (edited to add - it was a Waxoyl product - I use in the sills of the Range Rover).  These all seal the metal off from air.  Dessicant bags eventually "fill up" and need replacing so you have to remember doing this.  The coating approach is set and forget.  

 

Wrap it in a trash bag.

 

Place in a specialist engine storage crate or just go to the Container Store (or similar) and buy one of those big plastic crates.  I usually find one with wheels so you can roll it under something to get it out of the way. 

Just a chemistry note--- toluene must be used with good ventilation and the correct gloves. Depending on the refiner it may have some significant benzene content ( as does really high octane petrol sometimes) so breathing and skin absorption must be avoided ( leukemia hazard). Also, consider using pest repellent near the storage area if that might be an issue. Mice ruined a freshly polished, plastic bagged crank one time

[Croc]

8 minutes ago, Christopher smith said:

Also, consider using pest repellent near the storage area if that might be an issue. Mice ruined a freshly polished, plastic bagged crank one time

 

I have never had mice eat my engines; electrical wiring, yes all the time, so I have to ask - why did mice find your crank edible?