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New member Birkin (1996

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I also highly reccomend an oil cooler for 20V 4ag's- and not the factory one from toyota.


From an educational point of view, at what oil temp do you think it becomes wise to instal an oil cooler? I have been having this debate elsewhere off forum....

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Isn't the reason you are not using the existing cutout for your intake because the intake on the new engine is on the other side of the car?


No... the intake and exhaust out are the same as my Kent 1600 xflow and was part of the reason to go 4AGE my other chice was a Zetec because that was the same but a Duratec was around the opposite way.

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Samll update today


We had to cut the headers that i got with the engine package as they didnt fit in to my Birkin as we are closer to that side of the car with the engine so the space to fit them in was tighter, I was away in Hanmer from Thursday for a long weekend so Mark completed the headers for the engine and tacked them up ready to be tig welded by one of my mates at my work who could do it tonight and drop them back off to Mcgregors in the morning otherwise I would have welded them my self next week on late shift.




I also took my ali radiator off to give it a clean and I also want to relocate the front mounted fan to the rear as this gives better airflow over the radiator core, while removing it I discoverd both of the brkts holding it were cracked about half way down so this is also being welded up tonight by a mate at my work place. My current radiator fan is a pretty bulky affair and i have decided it will now be replaced by one of the new slim line fans that are used alot in sevens mounted at the rear this should help with the cooling of the 4AGE.





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From an educational point of view, at what oil temp do you think it becomes wise to instal an oil cooler? I have been having this debate elsewhere off forum....


As a general rule of thumb - anything over 220deg F for dyno oil and 250 deg F for synethic are my cut-off points. It depends on the oil, the amount of anti-oxidants, and the time it's at that temperature. So, lets say I touch 220 on a dyno oil... probably no big deal if it's a high quality oil and it's only instantaneously. If I'm sustaining 210 for more than a minute, I'm definitely going to put in a cooler.


I reccomend a cooler on the 4ag because they're prone to rod knock. Furthermore, the blacktop has lightened internals and the conrods are notoriously weak. Without a cooler, 3 laps at 110deg F ambient was enough to run the oil temp up to 250 deg F on my 4age.

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I put in an oil cooler for the same reasons that TheDingo8MyBaby stated plus it gives you some added capacity which also helps in the cooling process even if the amount is not all that great.

My vote would be to add the oil cooler now while your doing your engine transplant as it sure dose not hurt and if you do get the temps up high at least you will know that the oil has a better chance of not failing due to being overcooked.

Just my thoughts.

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Managed to get to Mcgregors today and see whats been done to the car, Mark had run the fuel lines and hooked it up to the tank and installed the fuel pump and filter system on the firewall behind the passengers seat also the drive shaft was back after having the diff end altered and re welded and balanced. My ali radiator

had been set away to have a pressure cap put in and welded and also a new thinner electric fan installed on the inside and was back and mounted to the car to check for fit up I have decided to mount it this time on rubber bushes so it doesnt work harden the welds this time.


I made a new battery box which will be mounted down in front of the passenger footwell inside the engine bay and welded it up at work tonight and also had a bit of a discussion with the electrician doing the electrics and sorted out where the ECU is being mounted, as my car has a heater core and fan unit there isnt much room under the dash so its being mounted inside the engine bay and i will make a cover to keep the heat away.


Pictures of the battery box i knocked up at Mcgregors and welded at work I will get it painted black.









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Drive shaft hoop in and welded






Fuel pump setup with the filters (fuel pump is missing at the moment)



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Hi KiwiBirkin,


Just looked at your photos and I like the driveshaft hoop for the front universal. You might want to put one in at the rear also as if that universal gives up it will eat your hip before you can get the clutch in and the shaft stopped as the aluminum skin that is in that area will not slow it down at all.

Just my observation and belief.:driving:

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Hi KiwiBirkin,


Very COOL.

I did not mean to be critical I just figured it might have been over looked.

When do you think you will have your 7 back on the road. :auto:

Looking forward to seeing more photos also.

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Progress is looking good I was there this week and I sorted out the exhuast & headers and there all welded up, we have removed the engine now for some tidying up of the car engine bay and for me to paint the engine block which i did on Friday so next time it goes in which is Monday its staying in.


All up I would say another 2-3 weeks

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Not much progress this week but next week we start putting it all back together, anyway some pics of bits getting ready for next week.


Some pics to go with my post on Tuesday


Battery box painted and installed



Water pipes painted



Radiator new slim fan also now mounted on the rear



Radiator pressure cap fitted


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Some progress this week i spent yesterday cleaning up the engine bay some more and removing the Ali top panel from in front of the scuttle in the engine bay which was badly corroded from a slow leaking brake fluid reservoir pot, a new panel is being laser cut and will now be attached by rivnuts when it goes back on instead of rivets. I have decided to use rivnuts where ever possible from now on as it helps later on when pulling things apart, I also pulled the pedal box out for a bit of a clean up and paint while I could get at it.


Today the engine finally went back in for the last time and is now all mounted up in the correct place we then spent some time getting the remote shifter in the correct position so it aligned up with the center console gear shift position. with the engine in its final resting place I think i have gained about 25mm ground clearance so it should have about 125mm under the lowest part of the sump. The electrician can now start wiring the car up now and Mark hopes that we can start the car and maybe test drive it by the end of the week....we will see :roll:


Im also having a engine start button fitted the surround was in chrome so i masked the button today and sprayed the chrome black to match my other dials and fitted it too the car.


Pics to follow as im writing this at work.


Engine bay panel removed....you can see the corrosion the brake fluid has caused where its got onto the main frame under the ali.





Engine mounts


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Sump clearance






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New headers after being painted in Cermatel and then baked at 350 deg for 4 hours



Headers after a light glass bead blast which makes then a nice silver colour.


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Sorted out a issue that had been troubling me for a day or two what to do with the hole in the bonnet where the webbers stuck out. I had thought about buying a narrow piper cross airfilter and sticking it in the hole as a dummy filter that would just lift of with the bonnet but at $250 for one it seemed abit excessive, anyway $34 later at Supercheap Autos and a $4 packet of rivets this is what i ended up with.










Its looks great on the car and once the unifilter socks are on the snails it will look fine from the side too looking in at the engine. It should also allow some cold air into the engine bay too which will help push some heat out.


Also pulled my pedal box apart at work last night ready for powder coating

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Some parts arrived today from Car Builder Solutions online


14" storage pocket for the passenger footwell side handy for Marg to keep any maps and paperwork in for longer runs just like a womans handbag but for the car :) NZ $24




2 x smaller 7" storage pockets that im going to mount on either side of the transmission tunnel just by the gear stick which will be ideal for out cell phones/sunglass & Margs Ipod. NZ $15 each



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Also orderd all new switches for the dash while I was at as they were pretty cheap at $16 each, im going to replace my heated windscreen one with a 2 position fan switch for the heater.




Pulled the pedal box out the other day and have now stripped it down for powder coating while its out i have decided to move it 1 inch forward which will give me some more leg room I have enough room behind the full clutch extension to be able to do this so thought nows the chance.


Pedal box after it was removed






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