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Project Beatrice. (1999 Birkin S3)


Jackal

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Ft Mcleod, this weekend and then Red Deer next weekend on Sat, followed by Ft Mcleod on Sunday.

 

Bill.

 

I don't think I'll be able to get away from the Garage for that long. I have to keep at it as the spring is slipping away.

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Another weekend of working on the car. One week left and it's off to Vex, and I have some work ahead of me. :o Friday I sorted out some more of the wiring, but over Saturday and Today I worked on some of the other stuff needed to get going.

The headers were starting to rust and I will get them properly coated and wrapped next year. I wanted to take off some of the rust, and then used high temp to give them a coat until next year.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9115.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9117.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9136.jpg

 

I also needed to modify the oil pan and the starter to get it into place. I needed to grind down some of the fins on the front of the starter to get it past the notch in the oil pan for the rear of the starter. Next I needed to notch a space into the oil pan to get the starter up high enough to get the bolts in straight.

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Not running yet. Hoped to send it to the engine guy Tuesday, but it's looking like next week will be when it goes in.

 

Finishing the headers today to fit and cut the collector. Electrical all day tomorrow should wrap up that part of the build. Little odds and ends from there.

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I finished the headers and now need to weld an extension for the collector and weld on the bung for the wideband sensor. The collector pipe is around 4 inches too short.

 

I got the car on the ground this weekend as well, but had some issues moving it around. The rear brakes seemed to be locked on both sides. It turns out that the brake calipers rub against the rotor when the wheel is torqued on. I have included a picture for reference.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0833767f.jpg

 

I don't see how this is supposed to work unless there is a spacer that I wan not included, and it fits under the rotor and hub. Either that or I grind the caliper. Any advice as to how folks have dealt with this before would be awesome.

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I got the car on the ground this weekend as well, but had some issues moving it around. The rear brakes seemed to be locked on both sides. It turns out that the brake calipers rub against the rotor when the wheel is torqued on. I have included a picture for reference.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0833767f.jpg

 

I don't see how this is supposed to work unless there is a spacer that I wan not included, and it fits under the rotor and hub. Either that or I grind the caliper. Any advice as to how folks have dealt with this before would be awesome.

 

Hi Duane,

I would say you need to investigate the why the calipers are rubbing first and then if you need to remove any material I would do it at the face of the caliper where it mounts to the axle hub flange to center the rotor in the caliper gap. One other thing I notice in the photo are the bolts that hold the flange to the axle have the locknuts towards the rotor and seem to be very close also. It could and most likely is just the angle the photo was taken though. I might suggest that you turn those bolts and nuts around so that you can inspect the nuts from the center of the axle plus that will give you a bit more clearance I think. Just a suggestion and remember this is part of the ownership of a 7 and what makes them so special and the people who build or assemble their own car.

Edited by MHKflyer52
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Duane - I took a picture of my rear axle brake setup to compare with yours. Mine has a spacer (gold colored) between the axle and caliper adapter that appears to be between .100" - .120" in width. Hope this helps.

Picture 004.jpg

Edited by 11Budlite
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It's good to get to see the differences between my Birkin and others to show me what other parts were missing or assembled incorrecty when I got it. :toetap05:

 

I have not got the spacer plates for the axle, so I'm looking at having to fab some up. I keep coming back to the use of wheel spacers though, and placing them under the rotor/hub. Am I overlooking a possible challenge with doing that?

 

My reasoning is I can get a properly machined part readily available at all wheel shops, and be done the swap in moments. Otherwise I'm fabbing two spacers which may take significantlly longer. I also see an advantage that they would be easier to change if ever needed. I have never had to use wheel spacers before, so I am unaware of any possible challenges this can cause though.

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Budlite looks to have a completely different setup on that caliper. The bracket is on the opposite side of the hub, the calipers are much narrower and in general, I don't think it's the same configuration as yours. And that "spacer plate" looks like it's in your picture anyway (under the caliper bracket mounting nut).

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I'll be tearing into it tonight to try and stay on track. It looks like the plate may be on the outside of the flange, and just installed incorrectly. I'll keep plugging at and have pictures tonight.

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http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/5cf97a8b.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/1112c6b4.jpg

 

I mocked up a solution last night with some washers, and found I can indeed push the caliper back a bit without too much modification. I'll be getting some better hardware today to properly fix the challenge tonight. This solution was mentioned on the Birkin Yahoo group when I posed the question there.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/4b8cdbed.jpg

Edited by Jackal
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Went to a local fastener dealer in town and decided to upgrade all the hardware. After some discussions with the retailer, I decided to upgrade all the bolts to a 10.9 ISO grade. He seems to think that is the way to go based on the forces at work on this section of the brakes.

 

Unfortunately the washers are not the same thickness as the ones in the mock up that worked perfectly. I'll see if doubling them up will get me a little closer todead center.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been forever since my last update. This Monday she heads to the engine builder for turn over and tune.

 

I have a couple pictures from the weekend. Unfortunately I haven't made it to the car this week as we are looking into purchasing a Tacoma as well. Yup, I missed the deadline with Vex this past Monday due to stupid little items that should be done before heading there.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_1313.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_1334.jpg

 

I feel worse than I look in this picture as I had been working on the car the whole weekend with some late nights and early mornings. I worked until the very early morning on Monday in the hope to make my deadline.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_1332.jpg

Edited by Jackal
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Yellow is the best color! :cheers:

 

Your head appears to be above the rollbar. You may want to consider lowering the seats/floor or a taller bar just to be safe.

 

Tom

 

It's funny that most of the Se7ens around here are yellow. I think future plans include a paint job on the fenders to black, and eventually the car a gunmetal type of grey/silver.

 

Seats are on the floor, and I want to be able to run the weather gear so I think the rollbar stays. I'll just have to keep it shiny side up. I'm just below the bar actually, but not by much. The camera wa pretty low.

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