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I can tell you're not a wine snob. They wouldn't let glasses of red and white get that close together. It would feel too much like a virtual Rose. Now Croc on the other hand...
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JohnCh started following European postal services pause shipments to US over tariff confusion , No electrical juice at the starter , Swan neck wing for Seven and 5 others
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As I recall your car has a battery master switch on the side. If no electrical items (e.g. horn, hazards) are working, and you've confirmed your battery is putting out over 12v, then I'd start there given it controls the entire electrical system. You may have inadvertently jostled the switch while doing the other work, and it's no longer on. It's also possible the contacts failed after the key was left in position 2 for a long time, or that it was installed with an inline fuse that's blown. Easy things to test are: Turn the switch on and off a few times, then try starting the car again or check the horn or hazards. If still no luck, then With the switch on, check voltage between the battery and each of the main connections at the back of the switch (should be two studs with thick cables attached). If the voltage at each connection is essentially the same as what you measured across your battery earlier, then the switch is likely fine. But if there is a large difference in the readings, then you've found the issue. If they are different, please report back with the voltage measured across battery terminals, and the voltage measured at each of the two connections at the back of the switch. This will help narrow down if it's the switch itself or the leads between the switch and the battery.
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Sorry, this is more of an accessible beer site than a snobby wine site.
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Due to a proliferation of scammers registering on the site then sending PMs to other members in an attempt to scam them as outlined in this thread, the PM feature has been disabled for all individuals in the New User group. Previously, they were limited to one PM/day to minimize their reach, but more extreme measures are now required. New Users will continue to have their posts moderated until we are confident they are not here simply to take advantage of the community. If you are in the New User group and have an issue using the site that isn't addressed in the Help Guides, please either start a thread in the Issues & Help forum or use the Contact Us link located at the bottom of each page.
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Just finished my 420r build have ride height question
JohnCh replied to notoriousjje's topic in General Sevens Discussion
The correct measuring position for the front is the rearward A-am bolt, not the forward bolt. Also, I haven't seen any mention of setting the ride height with fuel and driver's weight in the car. If this was not done, your rear ride heights and rake will be far off. Regarding measured ride heights, keep in mind that people running the 13" wheels will have a different optimal front height due to the smaller tire diameter lowering that number when the A-arm angle is optimal. I have been advised by someone who sets up a lot of Caterhams that he finds a 2 deg downward rake on the lower front A-arm works best. Of course, if that results in too low a ride height for your road conditions, then adjust upwards and maintain that 15mm rake. From the 2015 build manual, when Caterham still used words rather than oversimplified IKEA diagrams: 5.9) Cars fitted with adjustable damper platform Cars fitted with adjustable damper platforms need to be adjusted to achieve the optimum ride height. This is done by lowering or raising the height of the platforms on the threaded sleeve. It is essential that this task is carried out on level ground. NOTE Lowering the platforms will decrease ride height, and raising the platforms will increase ride height. For the best results the ride height should be set with the driver in the car and fuel in the tank. 1. Start by adjusting the front dampers to achieve a minimum distance of 150 mm (this can be increased for road use to a maximum of 190 mm) between the ground and the bottom of the lower chassis rail, where the rear leg of the front lower wishbone exits the side of the car. This measurement should be the same on both sides with the car loaded. 2. Now adjust the rear dampers in the same manner to achieve a height 15 mm higher than the front, measured to the underside of the lower chassis rail immediately in front of the 'A' frame mounting point. NOTE Adjusting the rear may have an effect on the front therefore it is good practice to check between front and rear several times during adjustment 3. Once the desired ride heights have been set ensure that the platforms are locked together to avoid movement. -
FYI the original poster attempted to scam several people here and his multiple accounts have been banned.
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There's no back story, because it's not true I suspect they meant BlatChat.
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I installed the Walbro GSS342.
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Thanks. I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to my typing. Fixed!
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I'm happy to discuss this via PM but let's not take this thread off-topic as well. Just to clarify—moving posts here isn’t meant as a reprimand, but simply to keep each thread focused and in the right forum.
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This was a valuable thread until people started throwing politics and snarky comments into the mix. I have split the thread, placing those posts where they belong: in the Politics, Religion, and Controversy forum. If you want to continue that discussion, great; do so there. Not here. Anyone who can't follow those simple instructions, which still allow for free speech, and give you the ability to embarrass yourself, will lose posting privileges for 30 days.
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It would be good to hear from others who have ordered a T-shirt. Was the size within the normal range for your other T-shirts, or did you feel the neck was much tighter than expected? There are only a handful of people who have ordered a Navy (not True Navy) T-shirt. If any of you read this, will you please let me know if you had a similar reaction to the color as @straightcut? If this is common, I can add a disclaimer to the merchandise site. @straightcut, I'll send you a PM later today. Thanks, John
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I tracked down Tigger. The site is gone, but he did give permission for us to add his annotated build guide to the Library. I've updated the link in the first post accordingly:
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JohnCh started following Tigger's Annotated Caterham Assembly Guide
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Version 1.0.0
16 downloads
This annotated Caterham assembly guide from Tigger's now defunct website, merges the official Duratec v2.1 guide with a curated collection of tips and tricks sourced from experienced builders. Organized by build step, it offers practical insights and a revised sequence designed to simplify assembly and avoid common pitfalls. Each tip is referenced for credit and further reading. Big thanks to Alastair (Tigger) for permission to add it to our Library. -
I don’t publish any of my designs publicly. I may eventually turn them into a hobby business, and I want to avoid undermining that by effectively assigning a $0 value to the IP and R&D time I’ve invested. As for that specific design, I carefully sized the cavities to fit the magnets I had on hand, ensuring they wouldn’t rattle or interfere with the printer head. I’d need to spend time digging receipts to figure out exactly which magnets I used and whether they’re still available.
