NSXguy

I found out from Martin Phipps at Caterham that my chassis was originally spec'ed and ordered by DSK Cars, Inc. He was able to share correspondence and invoices but i couldn't find much about them on the net. This is good info.

Good call John. I noticed the same and wondered if others were aware that the information posted was public. Des.

I can confirm that at least for the T-9s on the merkurs (i suspect similar to the V-6)- the forward boss is for the neutral safety switch and rear is reverse light. I got my T-9 from a buddy of mine who has been a longtime ford/merkur enthusiast and the box came with those bits still attached. Also- the reverse switch also fits on my Type-2 which for some reason didn't have one ( there was a yellow plug in the bung)

I have a North American Auto Equipment 2 post lift in my garage for some years. Pretty happy with it and the flexibility it provides but I have never used it on my seven, because... other projects. They have a website and fairly well priced but they are more of a Northeast US outfit, so i can't say it would make sense shipping to you but worth looking into. -Des.

Title says it's for a crossflow so likely exiting on the left side (Driver's side on LHD car / Passenger side on RHD car).

Well Mike, since i don't see the cossie on the list, you can sell that to me! lol

The top two bolts don't fit, but the side ones do. I have some options, but also considering a different bellhousing depending on how much i want to simplify my life.

My car already has a hydraulic setup with a girlin MC, so i spoke to Anthony (from Burton) yesterday and plan to get the concentric hydraulic setup for the T-9 as well as other bits. I have been looking to find a 7.5" 23 Spline clutch disc to use with my current AP pressure plate but so far been unsuccessful. So will likely get that from Burton as well. As far as consumables for the refresh, planning to get all that from Chris at Redline. Have ordered lots of bits from him and he always sorts me out. Will also get the upgraded aluminum rad/fan kit from him, unless there is a source stateside. Des.

I've had a few weird exchanges on this at a gas station: Them: Hey, that's a cool car. What is it? Me: Thanks, It's a Caterham; UK car. Them: "Oh Nice, a 'Catermaran' ? I've never seen one before. Me: , Ok. As far as price, i usually provide a broad range and typically that's the end of it.

I would agree with that, Jon. The assembly manual made it seem that the chassis was delivered with the option to install either lap belts or harnesses.

Nice Scott! Looking forward to the updates!

@toldfield your photo is not coming through. Project Update : So today, I temporarily switched gears (PUN very much intended ) from the wiring work i had been doing ! Took a short ride up north to meet up with my buddy...another self confessed parts hoarder like me to inspect the three (3) Merkur Xr4ti Type-9 gearboxes he had. After shooting the breeze for a bit, we got down to business, opened the top lid on each, inspecting the gear teeth, smoothness/actuation, excessive play in the shafts and other gremlins. I found one that was in pretty good shape overall. With some fresh seals and oil, i'm sure she'll provide many happy miles. Really grateful and lucky he let have one of them to help with the conversion. Once i got the box home and the weather was a little decent for winter, i figured i'd give the box a bath (nobody wants to be a grease monkey if it can be avoided): Pre Bath: Post Bath: . Type-9 box back in the bay next to the Type-2 for comparison: While i had both boxes side by side, i figured it is a good time to capture some comparison data and measurements between the Type 9 (T9) and Type 2 , as i couldn't find anything like this out there- Hopefully it helps something out in the future: Gear ratios on this Type -9 Gearbox: First gear - 3.36:1 second gear - 1.81:1 Third gear - 1.26:1 Fourth gear - 1.0:1 Fifth gear - 0.83:1 Cheers, Des

Perfect! Thanks for sharing that. I seems some are rectangular and some round. Wonder if it had to be spec'd from the factory.

Hi Scott, The entire harness sheathing will be redone in Techflex black braided sleeve like this with heatshrunk and sealed ends (this bit is for the starter i did today as that circuit is all set)...much more superior installation than just electrical tape alone. Cheers, Des.

Thanks for sharing that @Rosteri . I was contemplating keeping my Type 2, but have a friend who has a few T-9s from the US offered Merkur Xr4ti so that is helping to convince me to go ahead with the swap. I believe these US spec T-9s are different than the UK/Europe ones in some respect and through online research i've found a few articles from folks in the US who have mated said Merkur T-9s to the 711M block so i feel alot better and knowledgeable about tackling this and of course, will be documenting the process here. I should be picking up the box this coming week, so i'll be able to assess further. Request for the community: Could someone please post photos of this rear cross member on an earlier standard body S3? I plan to replace the lap belts with a 5/6 point harness and for some reason my car has round stock on this member where i believe it should be square/flat stock for the 'over the shoulder' harness mounting points installed. I don't know if it came round because original builder opted for lap belts... but according to the assembly manual, it seems the chassis should've been delivered with a suitable member with provisions for mounting harnesses at a later point without the need for additional mods. I'd like to get an idea of what this member should look like so that i can replicate or weld something to achieve the same result.

Cool Mike. Just did. TODAY'S PROGRESS: So after 2 days of going through the whole spaghetti line by line and comparing factory spec'd diagram to physical harness, I now have everything mapped and labeled as it should be! It seems at least in part, that some of the hackery in the harness in response to an improper in the rear section of the chassis harness (between tail lamps, number plate) that was affecting the lighting circuit and whoever made the fixes with the jumper wires to fix didn't do the best job either. I could tell the error was from the original build(or maybe as supplied from factory) because those areas were under the original loom electrical tape sheathing- I assume these kits were supplied back then with a fully assembled harness. Also, the referenced diagram is for a 1988 model year build and is a 90% match to my 1984 build harness; in that most of the circuitry and wiring colors match well enough except for some few instances. In the near future i will be posting an an updated wiring diagram that reflects the differences i noted for pre 1988 cars (or at least my car). All in all it was a great experience going through this and "ohm'ing" it all out. I definitely learned alot. Now that we have baselined, next is to undo the hacks, repair the factory defect and get this harness back to proper factory spec. Baseline ( mapped , ohm'ed and labeled). before any repairs: . Out with the old (no more jumper wires and but connectors in this harness' future) : .

Thanks for sharing that Mike. Was referencing the assembly manual for my car's year and didn't see any mention of those brackets in the sections i looked. Speaking of assembly manual, today,I was able to find and print a full volume of the assembly manual for an 80s Caterham which has proved to be very helpful in the wiring portion of this refresh and i'm sure will come in handy in the reassembly and overall knowledge of this platform. . The wiring all laid out in the basement floor for this messy surgical exercise : . I was bracing myself for the worst, given all the hacked terminals on all 4 corners of the chassis harness, but to my surprise, with the exception of those and a few spots under the scuttle, the rest of the harness was actually in good shape, actually very good shape for it's age. So that saves me some work. I painstakingly went through the entire harness, comparing each circuit against the factory wire spec in the diagram to inventory what had been modified. Once complete, next week, i should be able to rewire anything that is incorrect, adding waterproof connector around components in the engine bay. It should work much better and be more reliable for years. New thermostat came in for the header tank conversion/installation, so I gave it a test fit. I like that the outlet to the radiator actually points towards the front now. Still need to decide which tank i'll go with; hoping to find something in the states, if not i'll make one as i don't have much space on the engine bay bulkhead (fire deluge tank sits there)

The upper spring cap/perch is removable on my coilovers so i'm sure they can be serviced if needed. I would probably go with new if i considered that route though, as they aren't too expensive. Removed the wiring harness today so i can clean it up, strip out anything obsolete, repair any improper circuits and run new feeds where needed. There's close to 40 years of history on this chassis and it shows, but this is how i love to get into a new platform; from the ground up! Wiring gremlins... The wiring to the lighting circuits front and rear were the most mangles. Fan circuit was also altered to convert to a manual fan switch in the cockpit. Contemplating if i want to retain that or go back to standard. I will be running a new aluminum radiator and a sealed coolant system. . Temporary mod i made after reason someone doing similar. Installed mini fuses in place of the standard fuse block as it kept tripping prematurely and causing strange behaviors while driving. I will be updating to a modern fuse panel when the new wiring harness goes back in. Also took out the front and rear wings after the harness was removed. The clear coat on them was looking tired, so they'll also be refreshed and cleared. Here's how she sits today. Chassis is so light at this point, makes it easy to move around. Contemplating ringing a friend hook up to a fresh coat of paint on it. won't take much to get it done with a bit of prep and masking...watching out for scope creep (but this is good scope creep ha!) As I end today's update, 2 Questions: Q1 - Anyone know what these brackets were for? I plan to fab up some mounts the new radiator at this location (in front of the crossmember and under the nose cone), but just curious what they were for from the original build. there don't appear to have ever been used. Q2- Does anyone know if these shifter bushes are still available for purchase? I will shoot Chris at Redline a message but figured it's always good to ask here first.

@Pokey Any leads/ideas on where to get a rebuilt done? I remember a few years ago, i asked all the race shops around me about rebuilding the bilstein shocks on my Cossie coilovers and none were willing to take it on. I looked online and the pricing for new units doesn't seem too bad for all four corners, even with UK shipping; will have to compare that with rebuild cost.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I gave a go again at the lower arm and upper arm ball joint but they didnt budge. I have some other ideas after getting my hands on the assembly manual for a 1988 caterham S3 (same as mine) so will report back when (not if) i get them out. I just hope i can still purchase the bushes and ball joints after i get them off. So earlier this evening. I got the rear end off! after reading Mike (Croc's) thread about the bushes on the rear A-Frame, i was eager to check mine out as well...Take a look! Question: is the a readily available (somewhat direct swap) LSD option for the live axle? Just out of curiosity and for my personal edification i will check out quaife. . A Nice empty rear end! Disassembly of wiring happens next!