NSXguy

I will try to make it!

This! Bring her down Charlie @slowdude

if you're getting back fires, you probably have it 180 deg off or something. set the engine at TDC Cyl 1. when you have it right, the wires will be coming out of the dizzy at the 12 o'clock (roughly) mark. rotate the unit Clock wise* until the green light just comes on. also make sure you have your plug wires on correctly. the rotor should be right around the 10 o'clock mark at tdc cyl 1 as well- this is if you're looking down at the dizzy. then cyl 2 is at roughly 7 oclock, cyl 4 roughly 5 o'clock, cyl 3 roughly 2 o'clock. so you ensure when you install the dizzy at tdc that's where the rotor should be pointing and once you see the green light just light up you should be good to go. Set your timing to something like 10 deg at 1000 rpm and it should start. i have no timing figures below 1000 rpm to help with quick start. -Dez. Edit- goes without saying, once you get it fired up and warmed up checkthe timing. Confirm via timing light that the value in the app matches what is on the crank pulley

Scott- yes that's the place. good folks to deal with. the unit is about 142 GBP if i recall. The link below has the brake proportioning valve i used. In my case, it made sense to install at the time as i was redoing the lines anyway. If your car will be mostly (exclusively?) street driven, there can be an argument as to wether it's really needed of not to fully exploit the performance of your brake system. But if you track or plan to, it makes a lot more sense to install to optimize the "bias" front to back. I plumbed mine so it is fitted next to the tunnel on the driver's side so i can make adjustments on the fly (if needed). Some people also choose to install them in the engine bay. Note- they come in different part numbers based on which brake fittings you want to use. the one i shared comes with adapters( 1/8 NPT to 3/8-24 fitting). you can get them to fit m10x1 fittings as well as others. LINK : LINK TO WILLWOOD BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE- 3/8-24 FITTING -Dez

I realize you all have been discussing state-side solutions on this thread, but Paul from Powertrack in the UK stocks a direct replacement unit for the one pictured in the first post. it comes with a threaded shaft/push rod which when used with proper clevis, allows for ajusting to existing pedal. He also stocks many brake components and was able to provide a seal kit when i rebuilt my original 1970s lockheed/AP 3 port MC some time ago. Then later i purchased a new MC (replacement like the one inquired about in this thread). As the new one only has a single port each for rear circuit and front circuit VS my only one which has 2 ports for front circuit and one for rear, i had to do a little rework of the lines. While in there, decided to just run all new stainless brake lines and also added a wilwood proportioning valve on the rear circuit to dial things to suit (drum brakes on rear/discs up front). -Dez

Nice! that actually works better for me, lots of travel next 2 months... hopefully not too chilly in mid Oct!

@anduril3019 What you have seems to be the same unit that was/is bolted to my xflow. Installed at some point by previous owner and appears to have been modified as evidenced by the welds behind the mounting face . Can only speculate this was done to shorten the manifold runners or adjust the angle to better fit in a cat?? At any rate, I got another set of dcoe carbs and noticed that they don’t line up perfectly on the existing manifold studs. Upon further investigation I see that the old carbs had their mounting holes bored out slightly to fit. I don’t believe it should be so, hence why I’m after an unmolested manifold to try. Also I’ve seen some other manifolds with the center support bridge (between runner 2&3) further back from the throttle face which will work better with my throttle actuators. However curious now since we are here, For those in the know… and maybe specifically @MV8 , is this a typical fit “mod” ; ie enlarging carb mounting holes?. I’m a FI guy so I admit not fully attuned to all the carby quirks. The threaded stud locations on my manifold don’t look to have been altered (unless they warped/moved ever so slightly from the welding heat). if it’s just a case of “expect sub optimal fitment and adjust to fit in the field” then I will proceed accordingly. I just didn’t want to go boring out mounting holes on a new carb if i didn’t have to. R, Dez. pic of mine

Hi guys- I’m after one of these for a project. XFlow intake “manifold” for dual Weber 40 dcoe. Please let me know if you’ve got one to sell!

I have a type 2 (rebuilt) with an external pull style slave cylinder. I originally thought of converting to T9 (mainly for the overdriven 5th), but frankly after rebuilding my T2 and sorting the hydraulic clutch (fabricated a chassis mount to firmly secure a new speedway slave cylinder), it has been problem free since installation.

I'm there!!!!

In!

I'm eyeing that rocker cover as well

i'm in!

The setup when I did mine. If you need, I have an extra thermostat housing with the take off to the header tank.

messaged.

ahh. I hadn’t read the entire thread. Thanks for sharing; I added some meat to my post. The cat is definitely more visceral and when everything is right (and weather is decent) I find it very hard to pick any other car over it. I recently got the carbs dialed in and really can’t wait for the first track day to try it out. The other two being very modified 2L turbo awd rally beasts offer a much different driving experience and fun. As I spend more time on the track, I will be able to offer more objective feedback since they all will be 100% on the road this year.

I’d considered owning a seven for 10yrs but always passed up on opportunities in the past until this lil xflow cat was offered. So far, It has been a great experience and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed sorting it out and learning about a new platform. below are two of its mates: I don’t have any crazy philosophy about cars I’ve owned. Quite simply, I’m a longtime gearhead and enjoy a good mechanical challenge… the more obscure the better! So my latest thing is WRC cars and these two Grp A legends fit the bill. It has equally been fun tearing and rebuilding them (as I did the caterham). Recently, I got a small taste of track days so now I’m focused on preparing my Cat for as much of that as time permits this season and hoping to take the Cosworth and maybe the lancia as well. I think I’ll enjoy that quite well being able to wrench and then go racing… all fun.

Great idea Charlie. Definitely something i'm down to do as well (wrenching assistance within reasonable distance). Thanks for sharing Charlie. This one is right in my neck of the woods so i'll look into it.

Happy new year fellas! It was great to finally meet many other 7 owners locally and especially at the NJMP event last year; hoping we can coordinate to do even more of that in 2023. A few of us have already been bouncing some ideas offline for meet ups and such, so i thought to start a thread so we can all contribute to get the ball rolling as spring will be here before we know it. I figure if anyone is going to a track day/DE/autox and wants to share an invite for other sevens (assuming event allows such), then please post up and others can coordinate to participate as necessary. -Dez

Depending on how the car is built will depend if you can take both out in one assembly or now. My Cat has an 80s style chassis (see attached photo during my car's rebuild) and had little room in front of the block. Also the floor pan from the bulkhead forward on mine is fully plated unlike newer kits which i believe have an opening in the gearbox tunnel. How i did it on an early 80s Cat, Live axle, xflow, type2 box: -First, I removed the waterpump (and pulley), crank pulle and alternator to create enough space to pull the block forward enough to separate it from the gearbox(obviously all necessary ancillary bits disconnected). -Next, i lifted the block up with some wiggling (mounts have to come off or leave them bolted to chassis). I decided to take them off completed once supported by the hoist so i have max room to wiggle/maneuver -Once engine's off, Now you can remove the gearbox either as one assembly with driveshaft connected (in my case necessary as the DS input shaft also serves to seal the oil from escaping the gearbox on a Type 2). If it's a similar config on a T9 you may have to do the same if there isnt a separate gearbox drain plug to allow you to separate the shaft from the box without making a mess. -Installation is the reverse. **If your Westfield is built without the upper straight chassis crossmember as in the attached photo (it may have a V configuration there) and the gear box tunnel is open, you SHOULD be able to take the engine and box out in one assembly easier. Hope that helps. Cheers, Des.

As great as the Cat is... truth is the NSX is "un red headable" ... i think @UglyFast can testify to that

mine is under the scuttle, close to the kill switch.

I'll DM You. I'm in CT as well. Can help sort this out.

I have the same helmet. We all have to get together next season. Lots of cats in the Tristate/New England these days and a few more i know on the way.

Get it better than good enough and go have some fun, Scott. They'll never be "perfect" and thats part of the fun of it!. I came to that realization during my own refresh. Cheers, Des.