NSXguy

are you guys running open throttle bodies which will require Alpha N or a plenum with a map sensor which will require Speed density? Your hardware config will drive a different tuning strategy for each scenario.

They all do essentially the same thing . Maybe a slight difference in fidelity of data, features and what is included in the package. I have no recent experience with those two but both are reputable companies, so you should be fine with whichever you prefer. As long as it is not a narrowband sensor. I suspect they will all be using lsu 4.9 sensor elements or newer which is the way to go.

I use the AEM 30-0300 X- series on mine. Comes with everything you need to install including the weld on bung. you can use it as you intend. I originally planned to do the same, but as an EFI guy… I came to enjoy being able to monitor my afrs on the fly. The unit also has data logging capabilities (needs extra work/wiring to implement) also, in reference to your photo, you can mount it after the merged collector and after the slip on connection on the exhaust (that extra inch or 2) won’t significantly affect afr readings.

Not the best photo, but you want the sensor mounted as vertically (upright)and as close as possible after the merged collector to get accurate readings. While more aesthetically pleasing, mounting the lambda sensor close to horizontal or worst under the exhaust pipe(sensor element facing upward) will result in fouling from condensation after many cycles.

I think you should have your tuner or a tuner sort it out because: 1- if you need to do anymore more than cold start enrichment, then the engine wasn’t properly/completely tuned to begin with and should have a session on a dyno or street tuning with logs taken. In which case, it’ll get tuned at operating temp, then go back and clean up the cold start enrichment 2- cold start enrichment as I’ve referred to is not used for “cold starting” per se… in the tuning world it is called that but it’s actually Engine temp fuel compensation and is one of a few tables could be used to address poor atomizing of fuel at colder temps. there could also be a post start fuel comp table that also adds injector PW for a few seconds after the engine start and then phases out. The ET fuel enrichment runs much longer until you reach operating temp(typically should be 0 fuel comp after say 60/70 deg) 3- there is typically a different cranking table that dictates tps and fueling for cranking (starting) at different temps. an easy way to tell if it’s an airflow/fuel model issue is to check (if you’re running in closed loop) how much short term/total fuel correction the ecu is having to do. If it’s significantly off (>5%) then, you need to address. if everything is good mechanically and with the tune, you shouldn’t be seeing knock at those rpms as you should be no more than 20-25degrees. Is a knock sensor fitted?

You probably just need to tweak your cold start enrichment values to sort out cold start issues. There should be a fuel enrichment table based on engine temp ( which have probably not been dialed in if the car was from TX as the car/engine would not have seen the cold start temps you see in Iowa). This table is used to compensate for poor atomization and wall wetting effect of the fuel at really low engine (coolant temps)... that explains why it runs poorly at cold start and runs fine(better) at operating temp. PS- you should not need to make any changes to the ignition maps. If all of this is not intiutive; i suggest have your tuner sort it out. These days, there are solutions for remote tuning or you can take some logs, send to your tuner and they will make the changes for you to load back into the ecu. -Dez.

Petronix will be pretty good on a road car. I've tried 3 different electronic ignition systems on my xflow cat and the petronix work pretty much out of the box (assuming you're getting the matching flamethrower coil with dizzy). Also make sure you have good coil leads, that the your coil wiring is correct, engine at TDC cyl 1 compression (at proper orientation, rotor should be facing ~ 10 o'clock if you are looking down at dizzy and the wire lead coming out the dizzy should be coming out around the ~8 o'clock mark). The dizzy adds about 24 degrees of mechanical advance (no vac adv), so you can start with something around 10+/- degrees static depending on engine spec (targeting ~32-34 all by about 3.5k rpm). As long as your fueling is good, it should start and once warmed up, optimize everything to suit.

Apologies if i didn't catch the whole gist of the thread as i skimmed through it, but as i understand: 1-Car was running good (as in properly tune fuel and air models; if speed density, then your VE is spot on and you're running in close loop with minimal STFT corrections)? Typically in tuning lingo, Base file is typically just a start up file. should not be on a track on a base file. I assume the references in your thread may be down to semantics. 2- At the track, you had an accident with your wideband o2 sensor, leading to you making a hardware change (new o2 sensor) 3- Since installing said hardware, engine hasn't run the same. No other hardware or software changes? I'm not familiar with your specific tuning software, but generally, If the only change in configuration was hardware(new wideband), then the sequence would be, install hardware, reconfigure and recalibrate input in software, run car and verify your models are the same as before, make tweaks if necessary; rinse and repeat. Worth noting, if you tune/calibration is older and based on a different style wideband (say LSU 4.2 or other) and your new wideband is new style (say, LSU 4.9/LSU ADV) then you will definitely want to reconfigure; including controller if needed. Other tuning points. Generally you will initially tune in open loop, holding different variables constant or off (focusing on one element at a time), and once the model is good and stable, turn on closed loop and that should yield a pretty well manned running engine with mininal corrections in the background (STFT, LTFT etc). If my assumption in point #1 is that your car was already tuned (and not a base start up map), then you should not really need to go back to open loop, you should already be running in closed loop and just make any necessary tweaks. But going back between open and closed loop is not an issue if you know what you are doing.

Random photo during one of my shakedown blats

I shared a doc here that should be in the file downloads that should help you sort any of the functions. It's actually for an 80s cat but i was able to use it to when i redid the wiring on my late 70s chassis (84 titled) cat. Some of the wire colors were off but the circuits were all there; should be pretty intuitive to sort whatever you need. The purple/purple black wire should be the horn +12 Actually here's a link to the file.

The arch chassis serial number on my very early cat was on the driver side(left) rear shock tower. If your frame has been painted, it might help to scrape until you get to bare metal. I had to on mine as I initially couldn’t find but alas there it was, under 2 coats of paint.

Adding/reiterating what has already been mentioned... Whatever setup you go with, always good to double check with a gauge that you are getting the required fuel pressure to the carbs. -you definitely don't need 6an lines (Ok for EFI, overkill for the carbs), 5/16 is what you want and most low pressure electric pumps come ready to accept that size line. -My setup- run a short hose of 5/16 from the tank to pump (mount the pump as low as possible). mine is mounted in the rear on a custom cradle. then another short 5/16 hose to a 5/16 hard line running from the rear through the tunnel (supports/hangers needed) to the engine compartment and as close to the engine. Once there, short pieces of 5/16 connecting to the adjustable (1-4psi FPR), then fuel filter and then carbs. - **Double check your Fuel pressure. I'm using: - Mr Gasket 42s fuel pump ( Previously had a Purolator 42s) - Many units to choose from. just make sure it is less than 4psi. I even like the unit MV8 posted. May try it out in the future. - Holley 12-804 adjustable FPR, again many in this style to choose from. - replaceable 5/16" inline napa filters

ive got a 1600 xflow in my cat.

John is local to me and rebuilt my type 2 box. I have a spare t9 and can probably find you one. Lots of friend in the Cosworth/Merkur scene.

@Bartman - mine is a very early Cat imperial chassis from the late 70s so similar to s2 in many ways, from my observations . That said, my front lower wishbone uses a 1/2”-20x 3.5” long bolt (nylock nut)in the rear and a 5/16x1” bolt in the front (use spring washer and plan washer here) hope that helps.

I will try to make it!

This! Bring her down Charlie @slowdude

if you're getting back fires, you probably have it 180 deg off or something. set the engine at TDC Cyl 1. when you have it right, the wires will be coming out of the dizzy at the 12 o'clock (roughly) mark. rotate the unit Clock wise* until the green light just comes on. also make sure you have your plug wires on correctly. the rotor should be right around the 10 o'clock mark at tdc cyl 1 as well- this is if you're looking down at the dizzy. then cyl 2 is at roughly 7 oclock, cyl 4 roughly 5 o'clock, cyl 3 roughly 2 o'clock. so you ensure when you install the dizzy at tdc that's where the rotor should be pointing and once you see the green light just light up you should be good to go. Set your timing to something like 10 deg at 1000 rpm and it should start. i have no timing figures below 1000 rpm to help with quick start. -Dez. Edit- goes without saying, once you get it fired up and warmed up checkthe timing. Confirm via timing light that the value in the app matches what is on the crank pulley

Scott- yes that's the place. good folks to deal with. the unit is about 142 GBP if i recall. The link below has the brake proportioning valve i used. In my case, it made sense to install at the time as i was redoing the lines anyway. If your car will be mostly (exclusively?) street driven, there can be an argument as to wether it's really needed of not to fully exploit the performance of your brake system. But if you track or plan to, it makes a lot more sense to install to optimize the "bias" front to back. I plumbed mine so it is fitted next to the tunnel on the driver's side so i can make adjustments on the fly (if needed). Some people also choose to install them in the engine bay. Note- they come in different part numbers based on which brake fittings you want to use. the one i shared comes with adapters( 1/8 NPT to 3/8-24 fitting). you can get them to fit m10x1 fittings as well as others. LINK : LINK TO WILLWOOD BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE- 3/8-24 FITTING -Dez

I realize you all have been discussing state-side solutions on this thread, but Paul from Powertrack in the UK stocks a direct replacement unit for the one pictured in the first post. it comes with a threaded shaft/push rod which when used with proper clevis, allows for ajusting to existing pedal. He also stocks many brake components and was able to provide a seal kit when i rebuilt my original 1970s lockheed/AP 3 port MC some time ago. Then later i purchased a new MC (replacement like the one inquired about in this thread). As the new one only has a single port each for rear circuit and front circuit VS my only one which has 2 ports for front circuit and one for rear, i had to do a little rework of the lines. While in there, decided to just run all new stainless brake lines and also added a wilwood proportioning valve on the rear circuit to dial things to suit (drum brakes on rear/discs up front). -Dez

Nice! that actually works better for me, lots of travel next 2 months... hopefully not too chilly in mid Oct!

@anduril3019 What you have seems to be the same unit that was/is bolted to my xflow. Installed at some point by previous owner and appears to have been modified as evidenced by the welds behind the mounting face . Can only speculate this was done to shorten the manifold runners or adjust the angle to better fit in a cat?? At any rate, I got another set of dcoe carbs and noticed that they don’t line up perfectly on the existing manifold studs. Upon further investigation I see that the old carbs had their mounting holes bored out slightly to fit. I don’t believe it should be so, hence why I’m after an unmolested manifold to try. Also I’ve seen some other manifolds with the center support bridge (between runner 2&3) further back from the throttle face which will work better with my throttle actuators. However curious now since we are here, For those in the know… and maybe specifically @MV8 , is this a typical fit “mod” ; ie enlarging carb mounting holes?. I’m a FI guy so I admit not fully attuned to all the carby quirks. The threaded stud locations on my manifold don’t look to have been altered (unless they warped/moved ever so slightly from the welding heat). if it’s just a case of “expect sub optimal fitment and adjust to fit in the field” then I will proceed accordingly. I just didn’t want to go boring out mounting holes on a new carb if i didn’t have to. R, Dez. pic of mine

Hi guys- I’m after one of these for a project. XFlow intake “manifold” for dual Weber 40 dcoe. Please let me know if you’ve got one to sell!

I have a type 2 (rebuilt) with an external pull style slave cylinder. I originally thought of converting to T9 (mainly for the overdriven 5th), but frankly after rebuilding my T2 and sorting the hydraulic clutch (fabricated a chassis mount to firmly secure a new speedway slave cylinder), it has been problem free since installation.

I'm there!!!!