NSXguy

From the first photo in the post- 38/21

Geez fellas ... there's a time and there's a place for banter. This is neither!! Forum etiquette...

-As title states, I am offering for sale, 5- 14x6" panasport wheels (1 was the spare). 4 are mounted on Falken tires and the spare is mounted on older yokohama tires that are aged out. The falkens have roughly 1500 miles and 2 outings on track. Wheels are in great shape and tires Plently of life left on them. -These wheels are for the earlier 7's with the ital/marina pcd; will also fit triumphs. - Prefer not to deal with shipping if possible. Some older photos of the wheels mounted-

Awesome, she looks soo good. ARI did the heavy lift, now you get to do the fine tuning! I would recommend you have a wideband o2 sensor bung added to your exhaust after your merge collector. This will help with the next step of optimizing AFRs. (you can do it other ways, but this is my personal preference even if just to use during tuning) 1-Based on your engine spec, if you wanted improved idle performance and driveability at low loads, you can choke down at the expense of performance at higher loads but i agree with above that 28mm is too small and likely causing overly rich running condition (depending on current jetting, especially when cruising). Mine is close to 1700cc and i run with 32mm chokes (have run as high as 34mm on track) but also have aggressive cams- its a balancing act with carbs. I would expect ARI set the floats to spec for DCOE 151s which are the carbs you have. Having the floats set differently will also affect your final jetting and performance as well. Based on what i see in the photos, the 4-1 exhaust and short trumpets on the DCOEs, the engine is likely setup to breathe and perform up top, so you'll want at least 32 if you want it to perform as designed, but it will also run choked down to 30s as already mentioned with the appropriate jetting. 2-Based on your engine spec, your timing may need to be tweaked as well (so it's nice that you already have the 123 ignition module installed). Even if your engine was standard spec, you can optimize the advance curve for better performance. Curious, di you get the bluetooth or the USB version of the dizzy? i have the bluetooth version for the 7 and find it really convenient for tweaking on the fly as opposed to the USB version i haven in the renault. You can post your current settings and jets (idle, mains/air corr. , accel pump, mixture turns, ignition, fuel pressure etc) and we can help/advise from there as you get on with the tuning or message me offline if your like.

I ran Falken RT615K+ on my 7. 195/60/14. fit fine with cycle fenders and performed well on street and a few track days. no issues with ground clearance. The RT660+ also come in same size.

Thanks for sharing!! Thoroughly enjoyed the analysis and reporting!

My 7️⃣’s current stable mates. The Lancia is apart for a refresh at the moment.

interesting choice to go with a Lima on this build. Thankfully there's still a decent amount of aftermarket support for the platform. What are you using for engine management. If going stand alone engine management, then you could do away with the dizzy all together and run wasted spark.

For someone with general mechanical but limited automotive aptitude referenceing a good wiring diagram is probably the better way to QC as a hedge against these types of electrical gremlins during the build. For others possessing solid automotive understanding and trouble shooting skills, You'd scope out the trigger signals and verify that patterns look good. Cranking with the timing light would also tell if you have trigger/sync issues to correct prior to first start( Sync/trigger issues are by far the biggest culprit leading to no start on modern or older project/build cars) . Typically on a modern standalone engine management(i realize that may not be the case here), the issue could be solved without even needing to depin and repin the Crank sensor. often times you can select a different sensor edge in the software from falling or rising triggering depending on how it is pinned as seen in the scope trace. In either scenario, when/after assembling a 7 and before initial start, "pre flight" checks should be done to confirm readiness: -Check fuel pump primes with key on engine off (confirm check injector solenoid actuation as well, easier with aftermarket ecu) -Check TPS sweep and actuation/calibration and adjust if necessary -check crank position functionality (scope, check timing with timing light; if on engine management, adjust arming thresholds) -Check oil level and prime engine to build oil pressure before start (many ways to do this. easiest- removing spark plugs to lower load on starter)

negative- they fit good; no rubbing

Yes “big tooth” gears will be noisier than standard gears but less noisier than straight cut gears. It’s the trade-off for the increased torque “handling” capacity. No free lunches as the saying goes... oems use helical gears(and lots of them) to give quietest, smoothest gear engagement for your normal road driving but at an expense. A bigger tooth (and fewer) is an upgrade for spirited or Motorsport, with its own noise compromise. Then straight cut for pure Motorsports/ ultimate performance but then you get all the noise. so in short, what you are experiencing is normal. You will typically hear the gears more at idle and low load.

that's a beautiful ride. You'll enjoy it!

The Toyos are a good enough alternate while waiting for the novas (if that’s the ultimate desire). Even caterham (the company) have offered them on new cars since Avon supply dried up.

That’s awesome and I agree on track is one of the best ways to experience the full potential of a 7. I know it’s a hike, but hope you can join us at NjMP next year, dude.

sent Josh a message- he’s usually pretty responsive.

Correct- have shared similar observation before that it wasn’t a coincidence that many period lotus and caterham 7s have this typical blue pull-style slave cylinder installation/conversion. The web is littered with exhibits. Now we have proof in documentation of the bulletin. Thanks for sharing . Most of those installs would be pushing 40yrs in service and should be considered to be past useful life and in need of replacement.

there’s really no need to “upgrade” the cooling system especially for a mostly road driven 7; unless you just want to, of course. It works well in current configuration even in a track situation- I can attest . For your cooling system baseline I would say: -replace the thermostat -new gasket on the housing -new cap (I believe 13lbs) -new 50/50 mix ford green coolant, -the overflow hose to the overflow tank - if overflow tank holds, no need to replace unless for aesthetics -probably won’t hurt to flush the rad (and heater heatexchanger) while everything is off -water pump is fairly inexpensive; would throw a new one in as well (while you’re in there) -make sure you put enough coolant and bleed system thoroughly should provide lots of trouble free miles and smiles, at least for the coolant side. I have a more comprehensive checklist for a “new to owner” analog car baseline process.

I’ve never carried a spare, did away with the carrier and associated weight pretty much soon after getting the car. Personal preference/risk appetite; but the amount and type of miles driven never warranted. I’m currently on 13” minilites on Toyos for street/track. Before that I ran my (now) spare set of 14” panasports on falken rt615k (195/60)- they were good street tires wet or dry… I thought the fell off pretty quickly on track though.

for your visual interest… Sharing some photos from when I did a closed system. I have since removed as I wanted to declutter the engine bay and simplify. Either system (open or closed) works well if properly installed. as MV8 mentioned, Tee off the heater hose circuit or if no heater then just connect to the water pump neck (reference the photo with the arrow ) and route the line (larger ID) to the bottom of the expansion tank. Smaller ID hose will go from nipple on existing thermostat housing to small nipple on expansion tank you’ll want to cap off the existing thermostat housing with a non pressure rad cap and then use a ~13lb rated cap at the expansion tank. some expansion tanks have a purge/air bleed nipple as well.

Not a short list i admit, but... -Fuel swirl pot (major considering would be where to place the fuel swirl pot (in the rear or reluctantly but more convenient in the engine bay) -low pressure lift pump -high pressure fuel pump -fuel filter -high pressure rated fuel lines supply and return (thankfully i already ran hard lines when i refreshed my 7) -fuel pressure regulator -Fuel injectors Ignition (distributorless wasted spark or modify spare dizzys for cam signal to do sequential spark and fuel) - Crank trigger kit (either DIY or order online) - Ford VR crank sensor - Ford coilpacks Air intake -DCOE style induction units with TPS (although i've considered a custom plenum and single TB... will try not to get carried away) -Throttle cable mounting (unless DBW is utilitized, then just wiring to TPS and PPS) Hardware & wiring -New wiring harness, fuses, relays and sensors (IAT, water, TPS, 2x map if doing plenum with TMF) -Related - Driveline considerations; Gearbox is rebuilt so should be good and clutch is newer so should handle load just fine -other bits and bobs, misc hardware to make everything fit. Engine management - Multiple options(lots inexpensive or even good second hand), but will likely wire to accept emtron SL4 as thats what i have running the cossie and it's a solid package( probably overkill but i already have the ecu) If i do a plenum and single throttle body, i can then set it up for DBW with emtron's proprietory TMF air flow modelling strategy (which i'm using on the cossie) for oem level performance such as cold start/idle/part throttle driveability as well as increased flexibility on torque modeling/delivery... again depends on how carried away i want to get. ITBs would probably be the quickest solution to launch with and then next winter if i wanted to play around with plenum/DBW, can do that. Plan would be to keep power and loading in a way that doesn't overwhelm the standard rear end. I would think a reliable 150/160 is feasible on a 16XX the race spec Xflow.

I don't have any problems with my Dcoes and efi conversion is not difficult for me other than allocating the time. I will happily buy the bits from the overwhelmed fellow to potentially save some costs :-)

No solid plans, but i may get tempted to efi the old trusty xflow before spring time... We'll see.

Thanks and looking forward to it. Date saved.

I'm very luck to have an older neighbor who appears to "keep watch" overnight for any and everything that happens in the vicinity. But i do have Harbor freight locks on the trailer wheels as an added layer.. for the one day he's off his game and dozes off lol

That's a good obvservation. I definitely agree that ideally, an engine mounted bracing should be the goal. While not impossible to do on a xflow (easier on other engines), practically a bit more involved on a x-flow due to availability/proximity of existing mounting locations/threaded holes/bosses for a bracket. I suspect it is for this reason that many of the Xflow 7s cylinder installations i've observed are as they are and don't come with a rear brace; which still works OK but IMO not ideal for the optimal performance. In my case, I did consider a few engine mounted alternatives when doing the "upgrade"; but not wanting to implement an exotic solution, opted for the simpler setup pictured. As a hedge, i purchased a spare cylinder in case the rigid mounting resulted in premature/accelerated failure, but so far have not needed it as the unit has worked reliably through many years of normal city driving and several days of hard driving on track. YMMV- By no means the only viable approach; one can expect with an assembly prone to more vibration, or overly compliant mounts, results might vary. And of course, a concentric slave cylinder eliminates these concerns, but comes with its own set of trade-offs. such is the nature of the beast. I would say, as an improvement to my original install, rubber bushes can be added for and aft of the heim joint or on the mount/bracket for some damping.