WestTexasS2K

Try Lawell Motorsports. 713-871-1040. Terry is the owner he can help with suspension set up and he is a good welder and do your exhaust work too.

A Houston native and Ultralite owner Buz should have suggestion I have been trying to contact him. He lives in CO now.

I bought one of those and it broke shortly after taking out of the box. Store where I got it refused to take it back.

Kevins car with the 1 Lap Group after taking 1st in class and 3rd overall.

I hope the snow melts before the tour.

Eddie I was really hoping to come tomorrow but I have the flu so I will be staying home.

Your going to love that Rotrex. I like the bracket. Did you design it or does someone make it? Im not sure what your redline is on your engine be sure to spin the Rotrex to its full potential and then use a blow off valve to bleed boost over 7 psi. This will help the unit build boost lower in the rpm range. You will start to see boost begin to build at about 2500 rpm. If you spin it to slow the boost wont build until later in the rpm range and you wont get the full potential of the unit. The car is looking pretty sharp Im partial to your color combo.

I try to check all bolts and fastner at least once a month. I take a marker or paint pen and make a witness mark on the bolt and nut this gives you way to check and see if anything has moved with a quick glance. I also try to have multiple failure backups. IE lock nut, thread locker, and safety wire or cotter pin.

Yes that usually has a 1/2 spacer with a tapered side. The taper goes against the rod end. If you change it you will need to realign because your camber will change a little. It might work as is you will have to measure thru travel to see if you are getting camber changes. I measure the ride height on the frame and jack the car up and block it to the ride height. Remove the shock and wheel and then move the suspension up and down a few inches in each direction from the spindles normal position with the wheel on. Usually around 13 inches to start and drop to 10 and raise to 15 or 16 inches. Use a digital level to determine if you are getting camber changes. You can use the spacer height on top to adjust for best results.

It is a 1/2 coarse thread. I torque mine to 30 ft lbs. I use a grade 8 nylon lock washer with blue thread lock for back up and then back that up with a cotter pin I looks like yours may not be drilled for the cotter pin. It is fairly easy to drill if it doesn't have the hole.

Thanks Busa I will give that a try.

My lap top has the blue screen of death.

A Judge with slugs and buck shot alternating pattern.

I have been wanting a MINI but couldnt get the wife to go along. She didnt like the looks. Im the very opposite. I really like the look of the new Minis. I had a few MINIs when I lived in the Uk a 76 and 79. They were older rust buckets but still a ton of fun. I would really like to drive a newer S version, but no room in the garage right now. My wife would kill me if I brought one those home. I pretty much stay in trouble for my car hobby as it is.

On the new chassis I want to make it where the diff can drop out of the bottom. It will have a subframe The diff bolts to the the subframe and the subframe will bolt to the chassis.

I can make you one. I think I will make up 3 or 4 if someone else wants one

Hey John I found this chart on the net aprox 8 years ago. I dont know how accurate it is. It helped find a few diffs and it was correct on the cars I looked at. It might help you find something local if you want to go that route.

Maybe he is modulating the throttle because he feels the car start to slip? I did notice it seems like the cars LSD wasnt working very well. He had 1 tire spin leaving the pit and you can hear the inside wheel spin in many of the corners. It didnt appear the back was stepping out when the tire spun.

I will work on some cards to give you guys to hand out if folks want some info.

[quote=BMW RACER;51115 And I'm not sure about the whole blipping of the throttle deal, I'm sure it's a carry over from go-karts. The whole blipping of the throttle is the reason for doing a heel-toe driving. It matches engine speed to transmission main shaft speed so that you don't get a sudden engine brake effect when you are setting up for the turn. The engine brake effect disrupts the balance of the car and when driving on the edge will cause you to spin out as if you pulled the parking brake. It also increases transmission life because the transmission syncros dont get banged up so much. There are hundreds of examples on youtube

Hey Jim I get those collectors from Schoenfeld headers it is the slip fit. They come in several sizes so measure your tubes and go from there. Here is the link http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/collectors.htm

I second Jerrys advice on the bias valve. You can get it close enough with the balance bar for the street, but on the track where are braking harder and tires are hotter you will lock up the back prematurely. I also installed bias adjuster in the cockpit to make it much easier to adjust on the fly. I also went from the 1.75 to the 1.38 caliper to get the balance bar more centered.

I agree the 4.11 is best choice if you are running 13 wheels I didn't see that in the initial discussion. The final drive ratio would be about the same as with 4.44 with 25 in tall tire. This would also give you decent rpm in street mode with 17" tires. I know Wilwood doesn't recommend the steel rotors for road racing, but I can honestly say I have run thousands of miles on the track without a hint of brake fade or warped rotor one. They are lighter than a large cast iron rotor. I don't hesitate to use the steel rotors. Is your 1700 car weight with you in it? That seems to be on the heavy side.

I finally got the front fender brackets back from the shop that cut them on the Plasma Cam. Problem is I cant find the email requesting the reinforced brackets. So if you wanted the reinforced front brackets shoot me another email please. Sorry for the inconvience.

You can swap the diff out for any R160 Subaru diff. 3.54 3.90 4.11 4.44 are the most common. Not all diffs have the LSD units. Usually if the diff has a gold cadium plating on the bolts it is a lsd unit. For most tracks I prefer the 4.44 diff. it gives you great acceleration out of the corners and is great for 99% of the tracks. The car will cruise 75 mph at about 4400 rpm on the street with this arrangement. It is fine for shorter drives a few hundered miles no big deal. Do 5k miles in a week and the engine noise at that rpm can become painful. With the naturally aspirated motor I highly recommend the 4.44. The Honda engine doesnt have alot of low end torque so the 4.44 really helps that out. You just start off in second gear most of the time and can do 60 before you have to shift. You can still spin the tires in 3rd gear when Vtec kicks in. I recommend the diff brace as well. The diff wants to twist under hard acceleration. It can and will tear the front diff support out eventually. When you take the diff out where the front bolt mount is I take and weld and 3" by 6"x 1/8 steel plate on top to reinforce that area and then use large washers on both side to spread the load out. Be sure to check and make sure you have clearance for the rear u joint. It is important and Mondo needs to do this as well. Where that rear brace is attached in the picture supplied by Mondo those tabs on the chassis are extended off the chassis and can flex and break over time. You need to put a long bolt in the top mount where upper control arm is attached and then sleeve spacer that fills the gap in between so that the brace is tied into upper brace. This locks everything together and makes it very stable. I have a few diffs at the house I will see what gear ratios I have if your interested in another diff. It is usually cheaper to by another rear end than to buy a gear set and rebuilding it. I also recommend to replace the rear bushings with a ABS plastic bushings or Urethane material like used in aftermarket suspension bushings. I bought some ABS rod material from McMaster car and machined it down to replace the rubber bushings that come with the kit.