WestTexasS2K

Do not use silicon brake fluid! I recommend a quality racing fluid. I use Wilwood 600 degree fluid but Motol and others are good as well. If you use the car on the track much it will quickly boil standard brake fluid. Now for the bleeding prodecure on the Ultralite. I try and remove all the old fluid in the resevoir then fill them with the fresh fluid. Start with the rear passenger side. You will start with the outside top bleed valve and bleed it until good clean fluid gets there. Then move to the inside top valve and just bleed the air out of it. Then you will move to the driver rear side and do the same thing. Next is the passenger front outside then inside. Then move to the driver front outside then inside. Keep an eye on the fluid as you go so that you dont get air in the master cylinders. You might have to repeat the whole process if you dont get a firm pedal. If you have three people you can do the front passenger and the rear passenger at the same time since they are seperate MC. The balance bar can keep the pedal from going all the way down because the other cylinder will firm up before you get full travel.

Hank that really sucks. I dont have any leads for you now but I will keep my ears and eyes open for something. Hope you can find something soon.

I use my State Farm agent to get insurance on mine. It was an agreed value coverage of 30k. I am not aware of any mileage restrictions on the policy. I had asked the agent when I insured the car he said no. It run me 480.00 per year. I am sure rates will vary from state to state.

center bore can be an issue. Kevin had to have the centers machined out on his wheels to go over the front hubs.

No not really.

YOu might want to consider a wheel with a flat bottom. This will give you a little extra leg room to raise your leg to put your foot on the clutch and brake pedals. I used a Sparco unit that I really liked, but they are not cheap. I found mine on ebay and paid about 50.00 but original price was 300.00. I have been looking for another one since my last one went with the car when I sold it. I havnt found another one yet.

I could buy it on a partial intrest only loan with no money down. Then I could rely on the goverment to bail my dumba** out when I can no longer afford the interest payment. Then I can ask for it to be restructured and lower the loan amount to one that I can afford. I will even go halvesies with Jerry. I can live in 8k he can have the other 8k

Powerbook I have used several different sizes of wheels on my Ultralites. You will need a 5x100 bolt pattern 17x8 with 35-38 offset works very well on front and back and you can run up to a 255/40/17 tire on the rear with a 225-255 on the front. I have also used 17x9.5 with a 42-45 offset for the rear running 275/35/17. You will just have to do your research to find what you like brand and style wise. I just purchased a set of Enkie's from Tire Rack. You will just have to call them and tell them you have an odd set up. They will usually make you sign a waiver saying they wont gaurantee fitment upon your specs. I like the Team Dynamics 1.2 they take a few weeks to get in but are fairly affordable and well built.

Powerbookguy that looks like one of the first 10 Ultralites produced. Is that Tom's old car? Welcome to the family hope you love yours as much as I have mine.

I will vouch for Dick Brink as well have visited with him many times he is a very nice guy.

Some legislation that is trying to be passed is to ban all small motorcycles and ATVs so kids cant ride. There is a petition that can be signed if you have any intrest in saving this activity for your kids. My son is 9 and has been riding for 2 years. He currently has 3 motorcycles and we love riding together so this really disturbs me. Read all about it here. http://www.tomself.com/

I love the Ultralite of course since I am building my second. It is built in Dallas and it uses all parts that are available in the US most from your local auto store. Ultralite styling differs from the Catherham and Birkins. It is a shorter stockier looking car than the others so it will come down to personal taste. Oh and dont forget the S2000 drivetrain that pumps out 240hp providing a very fast car that will be very competitive in any DE event or AutoX. It will take a little more effort to build the car than some of the others but if you have any car knowledge it is an enjoyable task IMO.

I saw this car while surfing today. It looks like a nice build. Someone may be interested. http://www.pd-go.com/index.php?action=website-view&WebPageID=10808&WebSiteID=409

Is there a website for the car? I googled and couldnt find it.

cool car. I agree with Jerry. Open cockpit, open wheels and lightweight looks like sevenesque fun to me. Give us some juicy details, weight, HP, engine size, gearbox etc. OH and price could be handy.

Man CC closing all US stores and letting 34k people go. I knew that they were hurting. They shut down a store here that had only been open for a year. If there is a store in your town they are going to be having a big liquidation sale starting tommorrow.

I really wanted to attend the LOG this year because of its location. I had really been scratching my head to figure out how to do both. So this looks like a good decision to me.

I went and looked at a guys floor today that I met on Garage Journal. He just finished his floor with Wolverine epoxy flooring. It looks very good and is applied to a total of 25 mil thickness. It is just now being introduced to the DIY market. It has been restricted to commercial professional applicators until the last year or so. It is expensive though about 1000.00 for 600 sqft. It is a 100% solid epoxy not like the U coat it which is 75% solids applied at 5 mils. The best way to prep the floor, is to shot blast it which is kind of hard to find in my area. The nearest place is 200 miles away and it cost 250.00 a day to rent it. From the threads that I have read the acid etch is iffy at best for durable results. Here is a pic of the garage. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2086059318_Floor_Done_TV_up.jpg

My buddy at the fire station has 6 of those beast.

It isnt on the website but call them they will have them. http://www.seatsource.com/

That is really funny I have been looking at coatings for the last few weeks. I was just thinking of posting here for feedback as well. I like the idea of the floor tiles but for 1200 sq ft it will cost 3k to do it. Most of the industrial epoxy paints can be done for 800.00 or so. My mom had her garage done with epoxy about 1 year ago and it still looks really good but I dont know what kind was used. I guess I can get the name of the contractor and call and ask what he uses.

Found a pnuematic lumbar support that has a hand buld to pump it up. They were affordable 35.00 dollars. I got them from Flofit.

Kevin and I used these during 1 Lap and they saved us from freezing to death. We had alot of night time driving in temps as low as 10 degrees not counting wind chill. They have an adj thermostat to adjust for conditions. They are wind resistant and very thin. They fit well under a fleece lined jacket. The fleece jacket helps retain the warmth when really cold out. They also make gloves and pants that all plug in and run of the same thermostat. They have a life time warranty and they are very easy to install in the car. It comes with a fused power plug that is just hooked to a 12v source and a ground. We leave the pigtail tucked in by the seat get seated and buckled then plug it in. We used just the jacket and it kept our whole body warm. Legs and feet even stayed warm because your core is heated. A little pricey but very much worth the money if you are going to do alot of cold weather driving. Look around and you can find them on sale. We paid 160.00. http://www.gerbing.com/Products/Liners/heatedJacketLiner.html

I have a Sparco flat bottom in leather. I believe it is a 270mm. I never had alot of problems with grip or slipping it does get hot if it sits in the sun.

May Santa bless you with less weight and more power.