11Budlite

I'm pretty sure there's no fuel filter, just a sock in the tank. Adding to what Dave said, I'd also check compression and spark on all cylinders to get a good baseline. Check the spark plugs and see if the cylinder with the lower temp looks the same as the others. It could be something as simple as a bad plug lead or spark plug, or a bad connection at the plug or coil pack. Just an FYI: Sigma engines should be wasted spark with 1 and 4 firing from one coil pack and 2 and 3 from the other coil pack. Cylinders are numbered 1,2,3,4 from front to rear.

I can't remember the exact filter I used on my Zetec (ZX1, 95-97 model year) powered Birkin but I remember it being the same OD as the FL1A but shorter. I think it might have been the FL300? I know the FL400 fit as well, but I wanted the extra capacity of the bigger OD filter. Edit: I think I used the K&N HP-2004 as well which is a cross reference to the FL300. The Wix equivalent should be a 51068. This is all assuming you have the same available space as I did in my Birkin.

This is from their website: "The VTA CCC features one giant non-restrictive outlet that is over 183% larger than the inner diameter of the 10AN inlets. This increase in volume slows air flow allowing contaminants to fall out of suspension. Additionally, contaminants are trapped with a diffuser permitting the oil sludge to fall back into the catch can preventing overspray in the engine bay."

Honestly, I don't know. The catch can is mounted up higher now. There's a scrubber/filter in the Radium catch can and I inspected that too. It smelled of oil fumes but I didn't see any wetness and I didn't see any wetness in the engine compartment either. I've always kept the oil level at the high mark, and I'm using the same brand and weight of oil. All I know is I had to dump the excess out of the original catch can after every track day. This was my first time at Canaan in the Caterham and it's a shorter/lower speed track than what I've been used to. I wasn't spending as much time at higher revs so maybe that had something to do with it. We'll see how it does at a different track and I'll report back.

I'll be there with my Caterham and my son will have our Exocet there. I think the F1 race will be shown as well.

Any details on the CSR 260?

Peter - Sorry I can't help you with checking out the Caterham, but I did want to let you know that I seriously considered buying this car a few years back. I was in discussion with Josh and Ross about this car and was close to buying, but decided to order one thru RMC and build one myself. The build process was a lot of fun with a few hiccups but I'm glad I went that route. If I was looking to get a Caterham and wanted to drive it right away I would have bought this car. The ad said it was freshly serviced and checked over by Beachman Racing so it should be good to go. RMC and Beachman both have very good reputations in the Caterham world. HTH

It doesn't happen very often!

Paul - I've driven it multiple times in both directions and have had a blast each time. It's a great track for a Seven with some fun corners and lot's of elevation change. The only drawback is there is almost no runoff so if you leave the track there's a very good chance you'll hit a tire wall. There's also some good videos on how to drive Palmer on YT to give you an idea of what to expect. I was supposed to do a trackday there in early April but it was snowed out. I'll be going back there sometime this year but don't know exactly when yet. I'll let you know when I'm going. In other news, I'll be heading up to Club in NH on 6/15 and LRP on 7/1 in case you wanted to join us. My son and our friend Tom will have their Exocets there too.

I just wanted to give my experience after running my first track day with the replacement Radium catch can installed. At my previous track days, I'd get about an inch of fluid in the bottom of the cheap plastic Caterham-supplied catch can. This was installed in the stock location on the forward left side of the engine compartment. On my previous track days I would typically do (7) 20-minute sessions. I installed the Radium catch can on the firewall with the same two stock hoses coming from the cam cover and the block. I just did a track day last weekend at Canaan, NH, that consisted of (5) sessions of which I was on track for a total of 2.75 hrs. I checked the dip stick after the first (2) sessions and there was nothing showing. I checked it again at the end of the day and there was still nothing showing on the dip stick. This morning I decided to unscrew the can to check it out, and although it smelled of oil fumes there wasn't a drop of fluid inside. This thing is crazy expensive for what it is, but the quality of materials and manufacturing is first rate, and so far I'm very happy with how it performs.

Sorry to hear about the incident and all the damage. Besides adding a deflector to hopefully protect the fender, a lot of people use nylon attachment bolts for the rear fender to protect the aluminum skin in case of an incident. It doesn't help much with the fender but will prevent or reduce damage to the aluminum skin. The nylon bolts are available in most standard and metric sizes.

Just a quick update to say the manual stated 65 lb/ft not 63 lb/ft.

This is from memory, but I believe the manual for my 2019 310 said 85 n/m which is 65 lb/ft. The earlier manual said 75 n/m which is 55 lb/ft. I've been torqueing mine to 65 lb/ft and haven't had any issues. I typically break every lug nut and retorque before each track day and have never had one come loose when checking between sessions. The lug nuts/studs on my car are the same as an early Miata which should be 12mm x 1.5.

Wiring for most British cars has been pretty standardized over the years. I've used old MG and AH wiring harnesses to add or repair circuits to existing harnesses. Here's a link to typical British wiring color codes: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/bscc I've also found this place to be a good resource for electrical/wiring parts for British cars: https://www.britishwiring.com/default.asp There are 4 wires for the rear lights: Black (ground) Red/White - Tail lights (can be just red with no white tracer) Green/Purple - Stop lights Green/White - RH turn signal (Green/Red - LH turn signal)

I just wanted to add my experience with the heater valve on my Caterham 310S. I didn't like the routing of the cable and looked into buying a heater valve that was oriented the opposite way. I couldn't find one so decided to try to modify the one that came in the kit. I bent back the tabs and dissembled the valve to see if I could orient the lever in the opposite direction. It turns out that it is doable but it requires a bit of finesse and patience. What I did was use a couple pieces of plastic feeler stock (don't remember the thickness, maybe .010") that I formed to the curvature of the ID of the valve so was able to install the valve while holding the seals in place with the feeler stock. I think I used a bit of Vaseline to help with the install. Then it was just a matter of bending the tabs back over and routing the cable. I drilled a new hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column to keep the cable run as short and direct as possible. One thing that changed was you have to pull the cable to close and push it to open. Other than that it hasn't leaked and has worked fine. Just an option for you, here's a couple photos.

Bump.

Nice job, your son is a lucky kid!

wingers - I sent you a PM.

You won't be able to tell if it's been bored or stroked without removing the head, but this should give you an idea of what you have. I'm not familiar with that number on your dataplate. My 948cc engine from my old Bugeye had a 9CG prefix if I remember correctly.

First check the clamp on the steering column forward of the firewall to see if there's any adjustment left there. You might be able to get a little more clearance to move the steering wheel further from the dash.

Very cool project!

Very nice!

Congrats Yoram, your car came at really nice!