11Budlite

Wiring for most British cars has been pretty standardized over the years. I've used old MG and AH wiring harnesses to add or repair circuits to existing harnesses. Here's a link to typical British wiring color codes: https://www.autosparks.co.uk/bscc I've also found this place to be a good resource for electrical/wiring parts for British cars: https://www.britishwiring.com/default.asp There are 4 wires for the rear lights: Black (ground) Red/White - Tail lights (can be just red with no white tracer) Green/Purple - Stop lights Green/White - RH turn signal (Green/Red - LH turn signal)

I just wanted to add my experience with the heater valve on my Caterham 310S. I didn't like the routing of the cable and looked into buying a heater valve that was oriented the opposite way. I couldn't find one so decided to try to modify the one that came in the kit. I bent back the tabs and dissembled the valve to see if I could orient the lever in the opposite direction. It turns out that it is doable but it requires a bit of finesse and patience. What I did was use a couple pieces of plastic feeler stock (don't remember the thickness, maybe .010") that I formed to the curvature of the ID of the valve so was able to install the valve while holding the seals in place with the feeler stock. I think I used a bit of Vaseline to help with the install. Then it was just a matter of bending the tabs back over and routing the cable. I drilled a new hole in the firewall to the left of the steering column to keep the cable run as short and direct as possible. One thing that changed was you have to pull the cable to close and push it to open. Other than that it hasn't leaked and has worked fine. Just an option for you, here's a couple photos.

Bump.

Nice job, your son is a lucky kid!

wingers - I sent you a PM.

You won't be able to tell if it's been bored or stroked without removing the head, but this should give you an idea of what you have. I'm not familiar with that number on your dataplate. My 948cc engine from my old Bugeye had a 9CG prefix if I remember correctly.

First check the clamp on the steering column forward of the firewall to see if there's any adjustment left there. You might be able to get a little more clearance to move the steering wheel further from the dash.

Very cool project!

Very nice!

Congrats Yoram, your car came at really nice!

I wanted to match the Stack Classic gauges (WT, OP, Fuel, Volt) with a nearly identical looking Tach and Speedo and went with Speedhut. The Speedo is a GPS unit and has worked flawlessly so far. You can configure the gauges with different faces, bezels, needles, lighting, etc, to get look you're after. Sorry for the crappy photo.

There's a tuning guide section at Burton Power with the typical gearboxes used for Ford powered cars. You should be able to match it up to yours: https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides.html

I always found these cars interesting and would love to drive one. For the price they go for today a Seven is a much better proposition, although I'm sure a Rocket would be a better investment. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1996-light-car-company-rocket/

The latest entry from this thread must have been an exciting ride: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=101&t=2035620

What is the issue? If it's the turn signals not working try switching the hazard switch on and off several times to clean the contacts. I had that happen on a previous Seven.

I was wondering the same thing, then I remembered this:

Thanks John!

Thanks for the info Croc and John. Hadn't thought of changing bushes. My plan is to use it almost exclusively for track days for now. My thought process was to be able to corner weight the car with the adjustable platforms and to be able to adjust the dampers to a softer setting in case of rain. I have read the buyers guide and was going to contact him to get his recommendations. @JohnCh - I was considering the CORE dampers as well. What spring rates did he suggest for your car? I'm curious to see if there would be a different recommendation for a Duratec car as opposed to my Sigma car.

Following on from my previous suspension post here: I've been running the stock Caterham 310S suspension on my car for the last couple years. I’m going to have access to some corner weighting scales in the near future and hope to upgrade the spring/damper combo on my Cat. Since I grew up with sports cars with leaf springs and lever shocks and since my budget is not unlimited I was looking at 1-way adjustable setups. I was leaning towards going with a Meteor Motorsports setup but have not contacted Simon as of yet. My car will be used almost exclusively on track at least for the time being. I'm sure Simon will have good advice concerning linear/progressive springs and weights, and linear/digressive pistons, and how to combine the two for the intended use. I'm looking for any advice or experiences going from the stock Caterham Bilstein non-adjustable dampers to aftermarket. Spring weights, damper manufacture, installation issues, ease of adjustment. How often do they have to be serviced and do you have to send them back to the UK or are there companies in the US that could service them? Any advice welcome! TIA

The Sat morning race #1:

And the final race from Monday. Congrats to @Chris D

Another video from the Saturday afternoon race #2:

You're welcome Russell. It was nice talking to you in the paddock. Sorry to hear about your sway bar breaking.

I made it up to LRP for the Saturday afternoon races and was able to see some good Lotus Seven competition. Not sure what happened in the 1st of the 4 races but Lotus Sevens finished 1st and 2nd in races 2,3, & 4. Craig Chima and Cosme Fumex in Lotus Sevens, and Joe Colasacco in an Alfa TZ1, had a great battle with all three taking turns in the lead in the 2nd race on Sat. Craig Chima ended up winning that race as well as race 3 on Mon. Chris DeMinco won the 4th race on Mon Afternoon. Some photos from Sat: 01 - Russell Lane 181 - Anthony Thompson 5 - Craig Chima 11 - Chris DeMinco 50 - Cosme Fumex 10 - Joe Colasacco